Jordan836 Posted April 26, 2011 Report Share Posted April 26, 2011 This morning when I started my truck I noticed my check engine light was on and it wasnt on yesterday so I hooked up my code reader and it showed I was throwing code P0449 for the EVAP emisson control system valve/solenoid malfunction I wasnt really sure what it was so I just erased the code hoping it was just a random thing and once I got to work I did a little research on it and then when I started it again It came back. My questions are what is the proper way to fix whatevers wrong, how much of a pain is it to fix, and will it hurt anything by driving the truck when its throwing that code. I think I read somewhere you can turn off the monitor in the tune so I cant really see it being that big of a deal? But the reason why I ask that is because its my daily driver and work is super busy and I wont really have time until sometime next week to get it taken care of. What exactly causes that solenoid or whatever it is to fail? When I read it quick this morning I thought at first I might have a bad O2 sensor I knew it couldnt be my cats because I have LTs with a catless Y pipe along with a tune to turn off the rear O2 sensors. But if anyone has any info that would be cool. Its an 03 SS with LTs catless Y pipe nelson tune and other little things. Basically I want to know if its bad to drive the truck while its throwing the code. I was thinking It might start to guzzle gas but I havent really noticed it doing that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 This is an issue that really should be addressed, not covered up by deleting the trouble code, especially if your state performs ODB based vehicle inspections. The problem is most likely a faulty EVAP Vent Solenoid Valve, which is located on the side of your gas tank. General Motors has a TSB out on this problem(it has been revised and superceeded 4-5 times), it is a common issue. The EVAP VSV must be replaced, and the vent tube must be relocated from the filler neck up to the transmission tunnel with 5/8 heater hose. The procedure really isn't hard, but the parts will cost you a few $$, the VSV isn't cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordan836 Posted April 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 Ya from what ive been reading it sounds like a common issue. Im definitley going to have it taken care of probably sometime next week when I have a little more time. I just wanted to make sure it wont mess up the truck if I drive it until then? But I definitley plan on getting it fixed thats for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 You can drive it with most EVAP codes and still be okay, but you will have the annoying CEL on. I had the same issue with my truck 2 years ago, and I drove it with the same code thrown for 2 months before I had a chance to fix it..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordan836 Posted April 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 Thats good to know! But this morning I erased the codes again because I cant stand having that light on in the dash it drives me crazy and the light hasnt come back on all day? Im not sure why because I erased it twice yesterday and it came right back after about 30min of driving. But I did the same driving today that I do everyday and the light didnt come back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VHO_Tek Posted May 27, 2011 Report Share Posted May 27, 2011 Thats good to know! But this morning I erased the codes again because I cant stand having that light on in the dash it drives me crazy and the light hasnt come back on all day? Im not sure why because I erased it twice yesterday and it came right back after about 30min of driving. But I did the same driving today that I do everyday and the light didnt come back on. I know this is an older post but just fixed this issue today, but I did not spend the $$$ for the "kit" at the dealer. My truck is 6 years old has 80k on it and this just acted up, if the old part last that long then why not just replace it, so I did. GM part# 2142149 is a direct replacement that won't need 6 foot of heater hose and cost $150 plus. GM part# 2142149 cost me less than $20, add the 1.5 foot of 5/8" hose and two clamps to replace the hard plastic pipe going to the old solenoid and it was still a bargain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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