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Cam Install. Any Other Parts I Should Get.


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I just sent payment to FTI for my custom cam kit ( very excited ). Im just about to order a circle D converter once Ed sends me the cam specs. My main question is am i forgetting any thing from my parts list and if any one knows of the vendors to get the best deal from? Ill list out what im ordering. Also ordering either TSP or Cal speed long tubes. Thank you in advance.

 

Valve cover gaskets

W/pump seals

timing cover seal

new timing chain & cam sprocket

coolant

Ported or high flow oil pump

Crank bolt

Katech rod bolts

 

Trans fluid

Transgo shift kit

vette servo

4-5 sonnax

trans pan gasket

larger trans cooler

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haha sorry typing faster then i think

 

sonnax 4th gear, and i figure if the oil pan is coming down for the oil pump I mind as well replace the rod bolts?

 

Im going to assum you arent going to spin the motor more than 7k rpm....therefor you dont need to change rod bolts. These LS engines can take a beating

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You will be fine with the factory ones then. There are guys producing 20-30lbs of boost in 5.3's w/ over 1k horse on stock bottom ends.

 

At the end of the day, its you're truck so if you feel more comfortable installing new bolts then thats fine.

 

I wouldnt

 

edit: actually there is a member on here (shadowsniper), name is Brad. Has the fastest stock cubed N/A SSS and he spins his to 7200 on factory rod bolts. If that helps you

Edited by 2BFAST (see edit history)
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Well thats a extra $100 i dont have to worry about. Am I missing any other parts odds/ends from my list. Thanks for the quick response 2BFast

 

I would love ARH's but the majority of my budget will be spent on the cam kit converter. I didnt think it would be wise to run the stock manifolds with the cam. I thought to just go cheap now on them and when i go Fast lsxrt 102/102 then get some quality headers.

Edited by guineag60 (see edit history)
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Im going to also assume when you say "kit" that includes valve springs and pushrods? Also what are the specs on the cam? Who is going to be doing the tuning? Are you going to run factory fuel injectors? Stall speed on the converter?

 

If you are on a budget for headers, look into OBX headers. They make a nice set for the money.

Edited by 2BFAST (see edit history)
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Im going to also assume when you say "kit" that includes valve springs and pushrods? Also what are the specs on the cam? Who is going to be doing the tuning? Are you going to run factory fuel injectors? Stall speed on the converter?

 

If you are on a budget for headers, look into OBX headers. They make a nice set for the money.

 

LSX "StreetSweeper-X" Series Custom Camshaft Kit

The most powerful S/S series camshafts available. Serious street/Strip Power

 

Custom "SS-XL" Series Hydraulic Roller Camshaft

Lunati Severe Duty Dual Valve Springs - Max Lift .660"

Lunati Hardened & Machined Spring Locators

Lunati Seven Degree Chromemoly Retainers

Lunati Hardened Seven Degree Valve Locks

Steel Shelled Acrylic Valve Stem Seals

 

FTI Pro-Series Hardened Pushrods

 

I should be getting a email tomorrow from FTI on the specs, I was waiting on the specs of the cam so Circle D could come up with a good combo. I was thinking a 3k-3200 stall

Slowhawk will be doing the tuning and my buddy is giving me his factory ford Lightning injectors 42lb( if they fit, might have to pig tail connectors)

Edited by guineag60 (see edit history)
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I just sent payment to FTI for my custom cam kit ( very excited ). Im just about to order a circle D converter once Ed sends me the cam specs. My main question is am i forgetting any thing from my parts list and if any one knows of the vendors to get the best deal from? Ill list out what im ordering. Also ordering either TSP or Cal speed long tubes. Thank you in advance.

 

Valve cover gaskets

W/pump seals

timing cover seal

new timing chain & cam sprocket

coolant

Ported or high flow oil pump

Crank bolt

Katech rod bolts

 

Trans fluid

Transgo shift kit

vette servo

4-5 sonnax

trans pan gasket

larger trans cooler

 

Its my small opinion that the oil pump is an overkill. If you want peace of mind you can replace it with a stock one, but the high pressure/volume i just don't think you need. I'm still running the stock oil pump on my set up and the pump/motor has 106,000 on it now. There is a parasitic loss from using a high pressure pump, however very small, you will still lose some power from it. Changing the pump can be argued all day long, but in the end i didn't feel the need to jump on the bandwagon.

 

the ls7 crank bolt can be used to help the install process. The ls7 with the long snout crank uses a longer bolt, this helps to start the pulley on the crank with out worring about stripping the threads out of the crank. The stock bolt will only get like 1 or 2 threads started when you put the balancer on and thats a good way to mess up the threads in your crank snout. You will still need the lq9 bolt though, after some turns of the ls7 bolt, take it out and use the lq9 one the rest of the way.

P/N: 11570163

http://sdparts.com/details/gm-factory-replacement-parts/11570163

 

you don't need valve cover gaskets. They aren't like old school gaskets, they are just o-rings placed into a channel of the valve cover and will be just fine reusing them. However they don't cost to much either.

 

It's also my small opinion you don't need to replace the cam gear or crank gear. A new chain is a good idea, the ls2 chain is a little better for us.

P/N: 12586482

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12586482/ SDPC has the same part...but their site is going slower then hell for me so i posted summit instead

 

i would also change out to the ls2 lifter guides. They have holes in them for better oil drainage. You can also drill holes in the stock ones, but they are pretty cheap.

P/N: 12595365

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12595365/

http://sdparts.com/details/gm-factory-replacement-parts/12595365

 

you didn't say lifters. The stock lifters will probably work fine, but it's my small opinion to replace them. I've used the CTS-V lifters and they are good for sustained high rpm, but i noticed a flaw in the casting of the lifter body that causes a small crack in the body by the roller. It didn't do any harm, and probably never will but i chose to stop using them. The ls7 lifters are stock on 06 and up i think and are good all a round choice. The morel lifters are higher end and very costly, but its what i choose to use.

LS7 P/N: 12499225

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12499225/

http://www.superchevyperformance.com/12499225_Lifter_Kit_p/12499225.htm

 

You will be fine with the factory ones then. There are guys producing 20-30lbs of boost in 5.3's w/ over 1k horse on stock bottom ends.

 

At the end of the day, its you're truck so if you feel more comfortable installing new bolts then thats fine.

 

I wouldnt

 

edit: actually there is a member on here (shadowsniper), name is Brad. Has the fastest stock cubed N/A SSS and he spins his to 7200 on factory rod bolts. If that helps you

I do shift at 7200 right now...but it puckers my butt hole every time.

 

Oh, and not sure on the fitment on TSP or CalSpeed headers for our trucks but I would look into a set of American Racing headers. One word describes them, awesome.

 

 

If you are on a budget for headers, look into OBX headers. They make a nice set for the money.

 

I have not heard of the Cal speed or TSP headers on our truck yet either. But like Daniel said OBX is a good budget set. I'm still running them on my truck, and the second fastest NA stock cube truck ran them as well. ARH is supposed to be top of the line, if you can swing the price they are supposed to have a better collector design, does it help...no idea.

 

 

 

I should be getting a email tomorrow from FTI on the specs, I was waiting on the specs of the cam so Circle D could come up with a good combo. I was thinking a 3k-3200 stall

Slowhawk will be doing the tuning and my buddy is giving me his factory ford Lightning injectors 42lb( if they fit, might have to pig tail connectors)

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I'm looking forward to your cam specs. I was going to use a FTI cam as well until i learned you have to buy the cam before you get the specs. Instead i paid Patrick G for a recomendation and got one from TSP. I ended up going with TSP. In the end i wanted the cam to be my choice not someone telling me this is it and you already bought it. Ed has a great rep and I'm sure it will turn out great.

 

As far as the injectors go, I'm running the same ones. They are a little taller then stock so you can just use washers to space the rail up.

http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/55648-fs-42lbs-injectors/page__p__636846__hl__%2Bgreen+%2Btop__fromsearch__1#entry636846

 

You will need pigtails to use the SVO 42 pound green top injectors. You need minitimer to EV1. Our trucks use mintimer and the green top is an ev1.

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=IA%2DM2M&eq=&Tp=

before you order these, make sure to call them to make sure i posted the correct link.

 

Brad

Edited by shadowsniper3006 (see edit history)
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Thank you Brad for all the links and info, great stuff there. Im excited for the cam specs too. Ed does know his stuff well. I have friends that have bought FTI cams and they love them. Glad to hear that those injectors will work also. I was going to replace the oil pump because my friend might sell me his that has been in his tool box from his T/A.

 

I wasn't planing on replacing the lifters or trays because i was going to replace the cam without removing the heads. But they will get replaced when I have the funds for heads.

 

As for the headers, There have been a lot of posts on performancetrucks.net on them. I may have to clearance them but im not too worried ( thats what you get for $330 ) They seem to be like the pacesetters. ARH's are on my wish list.

 

7200 shifts "thats badass" ( Joe Dirt voice haha )

Edited by guineag60 (see edit history)
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.As for the headers, There have been a lot of posts on performancetrucks.net on them. I may have to clearance them but im not too worried ( thats what you get for $330 ) They seem to be like the pacesetters. ARH's are on my wish list.

 

For a buck and a half more you can have a set of OBX's with mid piping. This is the issue with say Pacesetters. Sure they are cheap, and they get the job done. BUT, they dont have bolt on collectors so most weld their mid piping which most likely will cost you just as much to have made for the remainder for the OBX giddyup. Only one problem, if you ever have to remove the exhaust for any reason you have to cut it all out then reweld. Then it starts to look like crap. If you have to wait a little longer for the funding for the OBXs I would.

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For a buck and a half more you can have a set of OBX's with mid piping. This is the issue with say Pacesetters. Sure they are cheap, and they get the job done. BUT, they dont have bolt on collectors so most weld their mid piping which most likely will cost you just as much to have made for the remainder for the OBX giddyup. Only one problem, if you ever have to remove the exhaust for any reason you have to cut it all out then reweld. Then it starts to look like crap. If you have to wait a little longer for the funding for the OBXs I would.

I looked at the OBX's. Not to crazy about the cats although i could gut them. Im not worried about the welding and fabing up collector connections, mid piping as i have a welder at my work. Nothing some $20 V-bands flanges cant fix. The way I see it is if im spending $600 ish on the obx's way not pony up another $200 for Dynatech's.

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