killemall24 Posted June 29, 2012 Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 I live in Myrtle Beach S.C. and I'm trying to find a decent AWD dyno. I had my truck dynoed on a 2wd dyno, but I'm sure I'm not getting full potential out of it. Anyone know of any good AWD tuners close to myrtle beach? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted June 29, 2012 Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 if there is any difference in the MAF and VE table you will not feel it or get any more power at WOT. Your dyno numbers will show lower on a AWD dyno, but you use a higher percentage of loss to convert to crank hp, if you trust doing it that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1BAD2K Posted June 29, 2012 Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 How did you tune your truck on a 2wd dyno? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted June 29, 2012 Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 How did you tune your truck on a 2wd dyno? Pull the front shaft on the dyno and don't drive it anywhere and let the dyno brakes slow you down Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverad0 SS Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 Pull the front shaft on the dyno and don't drive it anywhere and let the dyno brakes slow you down Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk 2 X2 and never ever put it in park! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kissfans03ss Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 Guys so let me get this right 1. Should the truck be in park when removing the drive shaft?, i am a little confused with the comment never put it in park because you need to start the truck in park. 2. I understand about letting the dyno bring the truck to a stop. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_aSSet Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 Neutral Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 (edited) all though the truck will not come off the dyno, i use park when i am out of the vehicle. After the pull is complete I shift into neutral and wait for the dyno brakes to slow the wheels down, when i see the speedometer has slowed to what i think is stopped, i confirm with the guy running the dyno that the wheels have stopped and at that point i put my foot on the brake and shift to park. So it goes like this: truck is in park neutral before the pull get into truck and start it wait to confirm with dyno operator that it is safe to put truck in gear foot on brake, put truck in gear let it idle with the wheels spinning in gear again confirm it is safe to start pull slowly apply throttle until truck is in third gear and spinning above your down shift MPH(around 70 on my truck), this may still be under 3000. or have a tune set to not allow a down shift for dyno only some lock the converter(me), some should not(stock or single disk) Thumbs up to confirm WOT with the operator apply throttle so your at WOT in around 2 seconds, do not stab it. Run the truck through the "test window", like 3000 rpm to 7200 in my case After you have reached the end of the test window the opperator will flag you off and let off the gas immediately shift to neutral, don't be excited doing this, make sure you pay attention that you only go to neutral DO NOT USE THE BRAKE, it is not safe on the dyno, let it slow you down Confirm you have stopped foot on brake, put in park either smile or cuss at your hp number or AF ratio, or timing knock Before all this, we pull the front shaft when the truck is lined up on the dyno but about 12-24 inches from the rollers. We block the wheels and put the truck in neutral, this lets us roll the truck forward or back to get access to the front u joint bolts. once the bolts are out, we push the front ot the shaft up towards the engine bay, then pull it forward releasing it from the transfer case, then the spline goes above the transfer case when we push the shaft towards the back of the truck. Then we pull the front of the shaft down towards to floor and it comes right out at that angle. Park allows "key off" which is why i do it. i hope i have not left something out Edited June 30, 2012 by shadowsniper3006 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kissfans03ss Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 Thanks shadowsniper is always good to know how the dyno vets prep for their pulls, i think this will help a lot of people. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_aSSet Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 Agreed, that should be stickied Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall24 Posted June 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 ya they pulled my front shafted and put it on a dyno. I had it done at a place Carolina Speed shop. I noticed a nice difference, but I believe i could gain more from it. Any other suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverad0 SS Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 all though the truck will not come off the dyno, i use park when i am out of the vehicle. After the pull is complete I shift into neutral and wait for the dyno brakes to slow the wheels down, when i see the speedometer has slowed to what i think is stopped, i confirm with the guy running the dyno that the wheels have stopped and at that point i put my foot on the brake and shift to park. So it goes like this: truck is in park neutral before the pull get into truck and start it wait to confirm with dyno operator that it is safe to put truck in gear foot on brake, put truck in gear let it idle with the wheels spinning in gear again confirm it is safe to start pull slowly apply throttle until truck is in third gear and spinning above your down shift MPH(around 70 on my truck), this may still be under 3000. or have a tune set to not allow a down shift for dyno only some lock the converter(me), some should not(stock or single disk) Thumbs up to confirm WOT with the operator apply throttle so your at WOT in around 2 seconds, do not stab it. Run the truck through the "test window", like 3000 rpm to 7200 in my case After you have reached the end of the test window the opperator will flag you off and let off the gas immediately shift to neutral, don't be excited doing this, make sure you pay attention that you only go to neutral DO NOT USE THE BRAKE, it is not safe on the dyno, let it slow you down Confirm you have stopped foot on brake, put in park either smile or cuss at your hp number or AF ratio, or timing knock Before all this, we pull the front shaft when the truck is lined up on the dyno but about 12-24 inches from the rollers. We block the wheels and put the truck in neutral, this lets us roll the truck forward or back to get access to the front u joint bolts. once the bolts are out, we push the front ot the shaft up towards the engine bay, then pull it forward releasing it from the transfer case, then the spline goes above the transfer case when we push the shaft towards the back of the truck. Then we pull the front of the shaft down towards to floor and it comes right out at that angle. Park allows "key off" which is why i do it. i hope i have not left something out X2 this should be a sticky great info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadianVRss Posted July 1, 2012 Report Share Posted July 1, 2012 X3 sticky! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.