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Radix heat exchanger upgrade... well, "my twist"


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what if I cut the "out" side off and weld it on the bottom corner?

would that help the fluid pass threw more veins?

KB-

 

Odds are it would still find the path of least resistance which would probably be just one vain, but your thinking. The fluid would be forced to travel a greater distance in the cooler because it'll have to travel down and across and not just across.

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I could be wrong, but I think alot of the heat is pulled out by the volume of water not the flow or the exchanger. Once the water has absorbed as much heat as it can then the exchanger allows operation but more does pull more heat out of the blower/headunit.

 

One mod guys did was to slow the pump down and it drew more heat into the water and let it cool in the exchanger more...Uncoupling the hed unit from the block IMO is a huge way to not soak everything in heat...

another mod is to add voulme to the resivor, then you can Ice the water to get an increased temapture range

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  • 1 month later...

look you have the right idea and all, but like sinner said above... thats an AIR to AIR intercooler. i dont mean this sarcastically or trying to be a jerk, please dont misunderstand me- but if it worked better, then an air-to-water / "heat exchanger" would be designed exactly the same way as the air-to-air. the difference is NOT just in the inlet/outlet and sizes of them. theres prob a full page of reasons i could type to describe why an air-to-air would not be nearly as efficent in removing the heat from the water as even what comes with the Radix setup. bottom line, it will DECREASE cooling efficency, and i hate to say it but if that pump increases the flow rate, i think you just decreased your cooling abilities with that 'intercooler' even more. the water (well, what water actually MOVES through at least) will be moving at such inefficent paths and for such short time periods that the cooler will have no chance to remove much if any heat at all from the water. also, the fact that its a single pass core, and the huge depth and surface area of that thing being a single pass just will not work right. youd need a bilge pump for a 100' yatch just to keep even pressure moving through the cooler at an even rate.

 

the best way to be sure of just how much efficency lost wouldve been to compare your IAT temps before and after to see what exactly happened... you will have your average charge temp while driving, your average charge temp/rate of increase WHILE in boost, and your charge temp immediately AFTER boost/recovery rate. those 3 things will usually always differ depending on setup, and some will be better here but worse there, etc. but IMHO with that setup, it will be worse on all 3. it was a good idea, it just goes against physics somewhat and just needs to be pointed in a slightly different direction. keep up the same thought process, just find you a nice dual pass air-water cooler/heat exchanger, use some 5/8" hoses, build a larger fluid resivour over on the rear pass. side of engine bay (where 2nd battery is found on duramax and my truck for example) and you should be seeing some improvement in cooling

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