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Need help replacing oil pressure sensor.


Merc Dr.

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My gauge started reading 90 psi. I bought a new sensor, but I'm having trouble replacing it. It's at the back of the motor right by the firewall. I can't see anything, but I can feel another sensor right next to it and it's blocking me from getting a socket over the pressure sensor. Does anyone have a pic of what's back there or tell me how to get the other sensor out of the way? I'm going to try with a mirror, but I don't want to disturb the other sensor without knowing what it is.

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The way I have always done it was use a open end wrench. Sockets never really worked for me. It takes a little longer but works. The other sensor you are feeling connects to the back of the intake manifold. You can remove the intake manifold partially,( move it forward a little) and get to the sensor more easily.

Edited by Blown 346 (see edit history)
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I replaced mine twice. The first time I pulled the intake. The second I did it without having to pull it. Here's probably what's going on. The neck of the censor (where the pigtail plugs in) is really tall. You have to use a deep well socket. Use your new sensor as a reference. I had trouble at first too because I couldn't see either, you just have to feel it out. Your set up should go like this. Deep well socket, extension, universal joint, another extention (this ones optional) then your ratchet (this worked well for me, but everyone's different, you might want to tweak it and see what works well for YOU). Try and get everything as straight as possible, when your torqueing. The real fun is putting the new one back in. If you got big hands, or are really rammy your going to have trouble fitting your hand or threading it in. Light torque as well, the threads are aluminium (unless your got the Borg Warner unit, in which case it's probably brass, which is also insainly soft). Good luck and post when you've completed! In all seriousness, I did this in less than 20 min a year or two ago outside in -30C. You'll get er!

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Mine is bad too but I ain't taken off blower lol, its pegged at 80psi. To answer Jason's question I had asked Steve before about this and my symptoms were of a bad sensor, not cluster or stepper motors. Let me try and find my thread where Steve answers this question and also posts pics of actual sensor, check back soon.....

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Thanks for that link. That's good info to go along with Can. VRSS's how to.

 

I replaced mine twice. The first time I pulled the intake. The second I did it without having to pull it. Here's probably what's going on. The neck of the censor (where the pigtail plugs in) is really tall. You have to use a deep well socket. Use your new sensor as a reference. I had trouble at first too because I couldn't see either, you just have to feel it out. Your set up should go like this. Deep well socket, extension, universal joint, another extention (this ones optional) then your ratchet (this worked well for me, but everyone's different, you might want to tweak it and see what works well for YOU). Try and get everything as straight as possible, when your torqueing. The real fun is putting the new one back in. If you got big hands, or are really rammy your going to have trouble fitting your hand or threading it in. Light torque as well, the threads are aluminium (unless your got the Borg Warner unit, in which case it's probably brass, which is also insainly soft). Good luck and post when you've completed! In all seriousness, I did this in less than 20 min a year or two ago outside in -30C. You'll get er!

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Thanks, that's the pic I was looking for.

I replaced mine twice. The first time I pulled the intake. The second I did it without having to pull it. Here's probably what's going on. The neck of the censor (where the pigtail plugs in) is really tall. You have to use a deep well socket. Use your new sensor as a reference.

 

 

I did this, but the neck of the other sensor is blocking the socket.

 

It looks like I can loosen that other bolt and rotate that other sensor. Do we know what that other sensor is? I don't want to move it, then find out it has to be in an exact position and end up with another problem.

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A 27mm deep socket, a universal joint, and a couple of long extensions should be all that you need to change that switch. You shouldn't have to loosen the MAP sensor to get to it. It only took about 30 minutes to change mine, it's just a tight spot to get into...

 

Borg Warner S4202 is the correct switch number....

Edited by Fireman31 (see edit history)
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Just completed. I used a 1/4" drive flex head ratchet with a 3" extention and a 10mm socket to remove the bolt holding the MAP sensor. I was then able to rotate the sensor out of the way. I then used a 1 1/16" deep well, swivel, a 4", and 6" extension with a 1/2" drive socket for the sensor.

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Just completed. I used a 1/4" drive flex head ratchet with a 3" extention and a 10mm socket to remove the bolt holding the MAP sensor. I was then able to rotate the sensor out of the way. I then used a 1 1/16" deep well, swivel, a 4", and 6" extension with a 1/2" drive socket for the sensor.

 

Glad to hear you got it together. :thumbsup:

 

How big a pain was it starting the new one in the block?

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Easy. I was sitting on the radiator, and was able to reach around the driver side of the intake with my right hand and start the threads by holding the sensor by the plug.I would suggest spraying the area with brake cleaner before removing the old sensor to clean dirt away from the hole. This will also allow you to use a spare finger to locate the hole.

 

How often do you get to use the phrases "reach around" and "use a spare finger to locate the hole" in a non-sexual how-to article? :ohmy:

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