smalltownguy Posted December 22, 2012 Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 (edited) Hey guys as a lot of you know I'm acquiring pieces to build up my SS when i get back state side. I saw Blownfogger540 had a deal on some roller rockers and a sweet water pump in the for sale section right now and I'm curious as to what water pump if any change you guys run with the procharger setups? Also, would roller rockers be worth it for a truck with a procharger, cam, springs, rods? I'm not familiar with benefits of switching out the roller rockers so im just looking for some of you engine guru guys input on the situation! Any more details you want to know about what setup im looking for please ask, I'm just over a month away from coming home so Im ready to finish ordering all my parts! Lets talk! Thanks Edited December 22, 2012 by smalltownguy (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted December 22, 2012 Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 (edited) Both of those items have a great price on them now. I've bought 2 pumps from Brad already and other items as well. And I'm also running both the rockers and the pump on my truck. As far as the pump goes, i can't put a hp number on it because i changed, and then dyno'd, to many things at once. I would guess anywhere from 5 to maybe 10 hp at the crank and most of it in the higher rpms. Is it worth it on most set ups, no, but is it one of those things you can do to have a one up on the next truck, yes. I would recommend this when you run out of other places to put your money because the gain is pretty small, but when everything else is max'd....gotta get that power somewhere. I saw no real benefit in cooling the truck with my 160 stat and holes drilled through it. Which by the way, make sure to drill holes in your stat if you do run this so the pump doesn't cavitate and over heat the motor. You'll also have to run some spacers if you plan on using this. Its set up for the spacing of an F body so us truck guys have to shim it out around .375 plus 2 gaskets. I'm pretty sure Kevin ran this pump as well and just spaced it out by using multiple gaskets stacked together and it worked great for him, but i would choose a spacer backed by two gaskets. I think he used a spacing of .250 total which is 4 gaskets per side, i used a .250 spacer and 2 gaskets which is .375 total, and then decided that a .375 spacer and 2 gaskets which is .5 was the best to use based on how the belt runs on the dummy pulley. As for the rockers, when i starting doing research these where the ones to get for most budget set ups. They had problems at first but have since adjusted the design. At least when i bought them, they had the lightest nose weight of all the rockers, except stock, and are a shaft per cylinder design. Its not a shaft like the jessel rockers are but the intake and exhaust on the same shaft. There are a lot of discussions as to whether roller rockers are a good buy or not. Since the stock rockers have a lighter nose weight some guys say they are better for higher rpm stability, and some guys/shops think the mounting bar that the stock rockers sit in is better for stability then the pedestal mount of the yella terras because every rocker is joined together. You can upgrade the stock rockers with comp cams or harland sharp bearings but it still doesn't have a roller tip. I bought them so you can guess what i think. I think i would rather have a roller between my valve stem and rocker arm for the friction and what i would say is less side loading of the valve stem. I also say although the stock rockers are sitting in a cradle which joins every rocker together...they are still only bolted down with one bolt each, so whats easier to flex one bolt with arm sitting in a cradle or 2 bolts joining 2 rockers together with a hardened steel shaft. My small uneducated opinion. As for setting up the yella terra rockers, they are one of the sets that work with the stock valve covers with no spacers. They also provide you with shims that can go under the new pedestals for tweaking in your lifter preload. If you do buy them, i don't torque them like the stock rockers because i don't think it works right. I torque down both intake and exhaust when i can see that cylinder is on the compression stroke and therefor both rockers are on the base circle of the cam and have no spring pressure on either of them. Because they are tied together, if you tighten one when the other has spring pressure on it, you may get a false torque on them because you are starting to compress the valve spring of the one you are not torquing down. As far as power goes, its again hard for me to guess, but not a huge amount. But again, enough to get one one step above the procharged truck next to you with out them. This is one of the mods i believe in and just do, prove me wrong and I'll listen. Hope this helps with your decision. Brad pump spacers yella terra on the truck water pump on the truck and you can see spacers by the block You said "coming home" are you armed forces? Edited December 22, 2012 by shadowsniper3006 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted December 22, 2012 Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 Heres my opinion.. I have had 2 procharged vehicles, do you need to upgrade cam etc, no... Will it help make more power, yes. Then drive ability also goes down. If you do a cam than yes, springs, hardened pushrods, rockers should be changed. The rods are pretty decent to begin with, unless you plan on throwing alot of power at it then I wouldnt bother. I run stock rods and pistons in both my setups and my cars make well over 600 RWHP on the factory heads and internals, for years and thousands of miles with no problem. If you are planning on rods, do the pistons as well as ARP rod bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted December 22, 2012 Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 Please tell me how any of that pertains to using a water pump or roller rockers on the set up he is asking about Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 Please tell me how any of that pertains to using a water pump or roller rockers on the set up he is asking about Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2 He also asked if roller rockers cam etc would be worth it... Re read the post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 (edited) Heres my opinion.. I have had 2 procharged vehicles, do you need to upgrade cam etc, no... Will it help make more power, yes. Then drive ability also goes down. If you do a cam than yes, springs, hardened pushrods, rockers should be changed. The rods are pretty decent to begin with, unless you plan on throwing alot of power at it then I wouldnt bother. I run stock rods and pistons in both my setups and my cars make well over 600 RWHP on the factory heads and internals, for years and thousands of miles with no problem. If you are planning on rods, do the pistons as well as ARP rod bolts. He also asked if roller rockers cam etc would be worth it... Re read the post. Maybe you need to reread the post....he asked about electric water pumps and you have no information to add to this. He asked if roller rockers are worth it and the yella terra brand in particular. He is already ordering the cam, springs and push rods already. The only thing you said on topic was he should change the rockers if going with a cam...do you have any idea why he should or should not, or are you just belting out misinformation...again. Edited December 23, 2012 by shadowsniper3006 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 (edited) would roller rockers be worth it for a truck with a procharger, cam, springs, rods? I took what he said as connecting rods, everyone says pushrods not just rods. I took that and gave my opinion as alot of people are concerned with the stock Rods. I suggested pistons as with any boosted motor, stock pistons arent alot of first choices to stick with. The info I gave is true and helpful for anyone building a boosted motor. My info wasnt useless and has bearing on his post. Im sure he doesnt have a problem with my post nor should you. Edited December 23, 2012 by Blown 346 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 The reason for changing out rocker arms is due to the cam lift and what the so called rocker can handle and power gains. Moving up sizes in rocker arms will change the cams duration and also increase lift which in turn will allow for more power. Anything else you would like to know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 (edited) would roller rockers be worth it for a truck with a procharger, cam, springs, rods? I took what he said as connecting rods, everyone says pushrods not just rods. I took that and gave my opinion as alot of people are concerned with the stock Rods. I suggested pistons as with any boosted motor, stock pistons arent alot of first choices to stick with. The info I gave is true and helpful for anyone building a boosted motor. My info wasnt useless and has bearing on his post. Im sure he doesnt have a problem with my post nor should you. The reason for changing out rocker arms is due to the cam lift and what the so called rocker can handle and power gains. Moving up sizes in rocker arms will change the cams duration and also increase lift which in turn will allow for more power. Anything else you would like to know? Yeah.... in the 11 minutes it took you to post this from your other reply....did you use google or yahoo to search for that answer? And i assume you mean ratio not size Edited December 23, 2012 by shadowsniper3006 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 Sorry but that is my own knowledge. Im not an idiot. There might of been a few posts where I wasnt totally right, it happens. But there is no reason to judge someone for one or two mis informed posts. Im no master engine builder etc, but I do know my way around a engine and what makes power and what doesnt. Yes I mean ratio size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K.Brown Customs Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 Blown 346 600 horse to the wheels?? you talking about your SS or something else? KB- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 My 2000 camaro SS is procharged etc etc.... I have about $30K invested in the car, it has 618 to the tire and a little over 700 at the crank. My Procharged 2001 Z06 made 719 to the tire and a little over 820 at the motor. I had a naturally aspirated 1970 camaro with a BBC 496 stroker with aluminum Dart Pro 1 heads and a mechanical roller cam that made 711 to the tire, and 908 on Nitrous. My 1991 Camaro Z28 that I put a SBC carbureted 406, and a TH 400 trans, that car made 565 to the tire naturally aspirated and 816 on spray. My wifes 07 TBSS with a few tastful mods, her truck runs 12.02 @ 111MPH Electronics and tuning are my downfall, but Im trying to learn about it and get with the times. For any non believers have pictures of all. My truck is mainly stock for now until I get some cash to procharge it and build a 427 with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalltownguy Posted December 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 Great info guys, looks like I'll stay away from the rockers for now just based on keeping it simple for my first "build" and the fact that it seems like the stock setup will do fine. To clear the record for any possible miss interpretation i was asking specific to the yella terra rockers and the cam/springs/push rods are already on order (well working on ordering after cam specifics get finalized). I feel like the best thing for me to do would be to focus that $1,000 toward maybe upgrading from a p1 to a d1 or somewhere else since the gains from the pump and or rockers appears to be one of those things you do when you want that racers edge and not completely worth it for me just yet. Who knows though, i change my mind so much i could still be convinced to make the purchase if they sit for sale to long. It looks like my current setup should run really strong without either and seems tons of guys change even less out internally than i am (springs cam and push rods are the only thing im touching) and have great reliable setups. Once again thanks for all the great info... any more advice for some other little things i may be missing? running a catch can on your pro charger setups? I'll break down below what I have and please everyone feel free to chime in as my budget still has room to play so lets hear it! Parts acquired/acquiring: Prochargers P1SC with stock pulley (looking for smaller, 3.6 or so) I have both the intercooler that came with the procharger (2 core) and a 3.25 with larger piping (using this one obviously, selling the smaller one upon return home) #42 injectors and plug and play #60 injectors that i thought was a good deal so picked them up as well (selling the #42s when i get home as well) Pacesetter LTs been on the truck for some time No CATs and flows dumped in front of the rear axle (planning on changing this up slightly so long story short full exhaust system) MSD wires leading to new plugs (i own multiple sets of plugs, obviously going to change them up when the procharger goes in based on what i read and find out) 160 stat Procharger custom intake off of Dentguys truck Comp Cam (working out the specifics still, looking to mirror what Dentguy had since i got his stall and same procharger setup) Hardend push rods (I'll order them with the cam most likely) Springs (918s) Transmission (still have lots of room in the tranny budget, going to discuss this with professionals to figure out what route im going to take): Circle D triple disc 2800 stall from Dentguys truck Trango HD 2 shift kit with mix of corvette and billet servos ^^^^ this is all i have right now, looking to go fully built or buy a fully built, since i have the stall for the 60 thats in the truck I'll prob stay with it and build what i got Other things being considered: Throttle body and intake manifold: I feel like with the P1 i should keep the stock size in order to hold the boost pressure up, but if i change to D1 and start running much more aggressive then opening it up with larger TB and intake will def happen... this is just my thoughts, tell me if that sounds dumb but another member was telling me his truck ran lower boost with a differnt TB and intake and felt like he should have left it stock unless the blower was huge (which the P1 is not) so thoughts on this? Catch can? simple, fairly cheap... seems worth it...what brand? thoughts? I feel like I'm missing a lot so what came into your head after reading this? If you had a budget for more with your procharger setup what would you do? Thanks again, i really want to do this right from the start or as close to it as possible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalltownguy Posted December 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 I know im forgetting more but i also will be running the walbro 255 intake pump (i have an 03) and i also have an extra 255 inline that may throw on for backup or use it and the stock pump in the tank! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted December 23, 2012 Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 Boost pressure can be lowerd by adding more volume with a intake etc. But thats normal. Not sure if you have hard piping planned or not, but that will help maintain boost and allow you to not have to wait for it to come in. It will be instant the moment you hit the gas. Honestly if you are going to upgrade to a D1, I would just go that route right away. You will save money in the long run and not have to pull the P1 off and so forth. I got my polished d1 for $300 more than the P1 when i did my Vette. CCA makes a very nice catch can. They come in different sizes and colors. I used the Moroso catch can from Summit/Jegs since it has a breather at the top of can. Ill get a pic and post it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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