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Nitrous install on a radix


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Does anyone have a good link or how to on installing nitrous on a mp112 radix... Any ideas on recommended kits from NOS, NX Express, ZEX, etc... Do I need a plate or can I plumb the pill nozzels into the intake tube just before the TB blade? Also what spark plug temp should I run (I have BR6EF's now should I go to 7's) I only want a 50-75shot for the cooling effect and a little bump in HP or actually it would be a big bump in my case LOL...Which would be better Wet or Dry? I am in the market for N02 to help combat my insanely high IAT's and get me into the 11's... Pics would be awesome but a good right up is all I need for now so i can get a good understanding on my plumbing needs... I like the purge system on 2BFAST's setup as well...

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Does anyone have a good link or how to on installing nitrous on a mp112 radix... Any ideas on recommended kits from NOS, NX Express, ZEX, etc... Do I need a plate or can I plumb the pill nozzels into the intake tube just before the TB blade? Also what spark plug temp should I run (I have BR6EF's now should I go to 7's) I only want a 50-75shot for the cooling effect and a little bump in HP or actually it would be a big bump in my case LOL...Which would be better Wet or Dry? I am in the market for N02 to help combat my insanely high IAT's and get me into the 11's... Pics would be awesome but a good right up is all I need for now so i can get a good understanding on my plumbing needs... I like the purge system on 2BFAST's setup as well...

 

I have used NOS in the past with good results. Now a days all the name brand kits are basically the same equipment minus color, and they just slap different names on the stuff. You wont need a plate, I would just use the nozzles before the TB. I would use the plug you are using, it will work perfectly as long as the gap is right. You will also need to retard timing 2 degrees with tuning software. I have always liked the wet kits, they are safer to run. There are alot of other things you can get for to make sure your motor will be safe like a window switch, retard box etc.... It all depends on how far you want to go with it. Bottle heater is a must for good bottle pressure, along with a blow down tube for safety. Plumbing the kit all depends on you, there are alot of ways to plumb the kit and hide wiring etc. Thats the hardest part.

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I have used NOS in the past with good results. Now a days all the name brand kits are basically the same equipment minus color, and they just slap different names on the stuff. You wont need a plate, I would just use the nozzles before the TB. I would use the plug you are using, it will work perfectly as long as the gap is right. You will also need to retard timing 2 degrees with tuning software. I have always liked the wet kits, they are safer to run. There are alot of other things you can get for to make sure your motor will be safe like a window switch, retard box etc.... It all depends on how far you want to go with it. Bottle heater is a must for good bottle pressure, along with a blow down tube for safety. Plumbing the kit all depends on you, there are alot of ways to plumb the kit and hide wiring etc. Thats the hardest part.

Good info to know... thanks Blown 364... Any idea if a meth and nitrous wet combo would work well together or not? I think I am going with a meth kit first as nitrous refills will be hard to get in my area so I would like to use meth for crusing around and whooping ricers and then track days run a 50 shot of nitrous with the meth... I don't even know if that is possible or a good idea LOL

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I have used NOS in the past with good results. Now a days all the name brand kits are basically the same equipment minus color, and they just slap different names on the stuff. You wont need a plate, I would just use the nozzles before the TB. I would use the plug you are using, it will work perfectly as long as the gap is right. You will also need to retard timing 2 degrees with tuning software. I have always liked the wet kits, they are safer to run. There are alot of other things you can get for to make sure your motor will be safe like a window switch, retard box etc.... It all depends on how far you want to go with it. Bottle heater is a must for good bottle pressure, along with a blow down tube for safety. Plumbing the kit all depends on you, there are alot of ways to plumb the kit and hide wiring etc. Thats the hardest part.

 

I guess I dont understand how you came to this conclusion?

 

Nitrous Outlet is by far the leader on the street market for sure.

 

Plate vs Nozzle comparison......a lot say the nitrous hits harder with a plate system rather than nozzle. Actually most say its night and day difference. But they are using nitrous for their main power adder unlike you. If you want to spend the money for a plate you def wont hurt anything but a nozzle would be ok for what you are wanting to do.

 

Wet vs Dry......dry you are spraying before the MAF and using the MAF to make fuel adjustments rather than wet you are spraying nitrous after the MAF and also spraying fuel as well. Im not a fan of letting the MAF make fuel adjustments to compensate for the cooler air charge. If the MAF fails for any reason pop goes the weasel. Wet you will be using the truck fuel system to barrow fuel to use with spraying nitrous. This can be ok if you have the fuel system to support it and you arent pilled to the hill while using a blower such as in your case. Remember the more fuel you barrow the more of a drop in PSI. Also on a wet you will use a fuel pressure safety switch. If the switch sees a voltage drop from a desired fuel pressure drop it will ground the system and kill it before something goes wrong. This in my opinion is the way to go.

 

Going back to the fuel system subject, if you really want to get into it you can put together a stand alone fuel system. This means the nitrous system will have its own fuel system to provide rather than taking fuel from the truck side. This is usually the way to go if you either dont have the fuel system on the truck side to support your nitrous hit. You will have a main tank, intank fuel pump, regulator, ect. See picture below for the tank I had in my SSS

 

DSC02986.jpg

 

And the intank pump, simple Walbro

 

DSC02976.jpg

 

On the subject of timing, rule of thumb is to pull timing when using nitrous. Off the top of my head I dont remember how much per pill but if you run good fuel you probably wont have to pull any timing. If you run 110 or even a mix of 110/91 or 93 you might be able to get away with not having to pull timing. If you are running a stand alone system, run 110/93 in the main truck tank and 110 in the stand alone tank. Im def not a tuner but I bet you could get away without pulling timing at all if you did that.

 

As far as my purge, that was all hand made with the parts below but was tough to do.

 

DSC03017.jpg

 

http://s3.photobucket.com/user/2bfast/media/MOV03118.mp4.html

Edited by 2BFAST (see edit history)
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what tank is that? trick?

 

Nope hand made from measurements to fit the factory GM diesel battery tray

 

Here is the battery tray that goes on the passenger side corner by the a/c dryer

 

DSC02977.jpg

 

Here it is installed in the truck

 

DSC03166.jpg

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Hey Brian, did you polish the front cover, valve covers, etc. all yourself? That looks awesome! I remember the pics of your engine bay. SOO much chrome. Looked great! I wanna get mine "show quality" one day. Being a daily driver and needing a motor ASAP, i wasnt able to put as much time into little details as i wanted to.

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Hey Brian, did you polish the front cover, valve covers, etc. all yourself? That looks awesome! I remember the pics of your engine bay. SOO much chrome. Looked great! I wanna get mine "show quality" one day. Being a daily driver and needing a motor ASAP, i wasnt able to put as much time into little details as i wanted to.

 

Thanks. The only things I polished were the a/c dryer & lines, driveshaft, nitrous lines, oil catch can, and rear brake calipers. The front cover, water pump, alternator/power steering bracket, bolts, valve covers, fan shroud, nitrous tanks, stand alone fuel tank, blower piping, coolant tank cover, brake fluid cover, fuse box cover, battery cover, and throttle body I had a friend do it as he does polishing as a side job. The only things I had chromed were the baskets on the alternator, coil brackets, and coil bolts.

Edited by 2BFAST (see edit history)
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I have been thinking the same thing about the iat's with the 112 kit on my truck. They are through the roof. I data logged 161 degrees the other day and that was highway driving, not even getting into it. I have a no2 kit sitting around that I could use, but I am thinking meth might be better. Where would or are you guys spraying the meth to drop the iat's?

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Thanks. The only things I polished were the a/c dryer & lines, driveshaft, nitrous lines, oil catch can, and rear brake calipers. The front cover, water pump, alternator/power steering bracket, bolts, valve covers, fan shroud, nitrous tanks, stand alone fuel tank, blower piping, coolant tank cover, brake fluid cover, fuse box cover, battery cover, and throttle body I had a friend do it as he does polishing as a side job. The only things I had chromed were the baskets on the alternator, coil brackets, and coil bolts.

ONLY???!! Bahahaha! :rollin::crackup:

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