Thatdavidkid Posted July 31, 2013 Report Share Posted July 31, 2013 Ok so I'm cheap. Like cheap cheap. I realize this build will be running on borrowed time from day 1 but its not in my truck (ill spend money where I need to there...) so here's my goal. I'm going to build a late 80's mustang with a 5.3 and I plan on running 9's.... I know the pistons are the weak link, but I've been doing a little research and what I'm finding is the factory ring gap is too tight for high cylinder pressure and when the ring ends hit it cracks the ring land.... Is there any truth to this? If this is the case, I will simply open the ring gap while the engine is still on the stand, and put it back together provided I don't see anything I don't like when the engine is apart. Don't get me wrong, I know it won't last, but I flat cant afford to "build" an engine right now. Any other tips that increase life cheap/free? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thatdavidkid Posted July 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2013 Thanks for moving this, I use tapatalk and I had trouble finding the engine section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 Thanks for moving this, I use tapatalk and I had trouble finding the engine section. Not a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadianVRss Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 Adjust ring gap, reassemble and pour on the boost. Might need a 2 bar map sensor and head studs. You'll have more in the boost set up than the engine most likely. Probably what the boost set up and and engine set up combined in the Trans. Sorry man, but there's nothing "cheap" about the 9's. even on a "cheap" build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idahoBLKss Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 if i can run a 11sec flat in this 5000 lb pig with a stock motor you should have no problem running 9's in a light mustang . i would just stud the motor and run 20psi and make sure your running good fuel and there shouldnt be a problem hitting your goal . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 (edited) If your doing pistons you might as well do the rods as well, stock rods can handle power, but would you rather do the job once or twice when the rods fail? I also agree getting into the 9's there isnt anything cheap about it. I also agree with head studs, but I would also go with ARP bolt hardware for the lower end of the motor as a fail safe. the rod bolts dont like to stay in place when you make power. Ask me how I know.... Edited August 1, 2013 by Blown 346 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thatdavidkid Posted August 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2013 I have no plan to change pistons or rods for "phase 1" of this build. I plan on re gapping rings which is nothing but head gaskets and an oil pan gasket. Ill look into rod bolts cause it would be a shame to lose a rod due to hardware failure but head studs won't get installed unless I start lifting heads. The initial build will get spray and once funds allow I plan on doing a 4l80 swap and later building that. Once I have a built trans, ill start building the turbo setup and once the motor starts removing its self in the form of shrapnel, ill build a motor. Ill spend money where I have to but for the sake of getting it running and seeing how far I can push the stock engine, this will be a fun build. My secondary reason for doing things like this is that I'm very curious of the real world capabilities of these components if the little stuff like ring gap is correct. For all I know, I'll fail miserably and grenade the motor and burn up the trans as soon as I put the bottle on it in which case plans will change but I don't see that happening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thatdavidkid Posted August 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2013 On a side note, why on earth are pistons so expensive?? I've only built sbf in the past, and it seems rods for these cars are cheaper, but pistons and cams are 40% more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted August 2, 2013 Report Share Posted August 2, 2013 Depends on who you buy them from and the brand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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