Rear Driveshaft broke - need replacement HELP

[demonte1997]

This is for my 2002 Sierra Denali. I'm not positive but was hoping my part would be the same as a Silverado SS. As it stands, I can't find much online. Google lists a Cardone part for the Denali but it is only 43". I think that would be for a regular cab. That's funny because the Denali only comes in extended cab... I also see one listed at 61" but it does not come up as being compatible for my truck. The other option is getting the Spicer factory shaft that would be big money (Cheapest I could find was $590/shipped). The Cardone shaft is closer to $300, is also made of aluminum and a remanufactured unit that comes with the u-joints already installed. This would be ideal if I could match up the correct part number.

 

As an added bonus, my company has most sites blocked so I can't really even search on my lunch break for it (not that I blame them... but it doesn't help me out).

 

Any help is greatly appreciated. I can't have the truck down for too long and would just like to get the ball rolling by ordering the replacement.

 

Thanks guys!

 

-Rick

 

[BlueAKSSS]

Check Car-part.com in your area for junkyards. Most of them carry driveshafts from wrecked trucks, I think the rear driveshaft is the same for any 99-06 Extended Cab short bed 4x4 or AWD.

[demonte1997]

Thanks for the reply. This is the only forum that I've been able to get info about it from.

 

I see a Cardone 61" shaft PN 65-9528 that Amazon says will fit my truck. I don't trust Amazon much. The Cardone shaft looks way skinnier than the Spicer unit. Not sure if that would be an issue.

 

Any additional info is appreciated. I'm a little weary of buying a used unit out of a truck from a JY. My old shaft was in really bad shape where the u-joints go in. The ridge where the e-clip holds the cap in was so corroded, it wouldn't hold the clip and it ultimately gave from the pressure and broke.

[Fireman31]

Here you go, looks like there are some driveshaft repair and fabrication shops up near you. Numbers 3-5 on that list are in my neck of the woods......

 

http://www.yellowpages.com/orange-ct/drive-shaft-shop

[demonte1997]

After much digging and contemplating, here is what I came up with. It might not be the best decision but it would allow me the least amount of headaches.

I had a few options come to mind after consulting techs about it and research:

1. Get original driveshaft repaired:
I called around and no shops will repair an aluminum driveshaft. This was the consensus from 8 different shops in the area as well as ones in TX and western NY. All of which are heavy duty shops that work in this specific area. They asked what length it was and when I said it was ~70", they said making one out of steel would be a bad idea between strain on the driveline parts and possible issues with balancing and flex (aluminum can, steel does not as well).

2. Get used driveshaft and hope it doesn't have any balance issues.
I found two that were within a half hour of me. One was supposed to be "A" grade. This is tough. They wanted $270 for the thing and I had no way of knowing if the balance was okay or if I'd be chasing new shimmy and vibration issues upon install. Also don't know how many miles were on it originally and/or why the truck was parted out.

3. Get aftermarket driveshaft.
No aftermarket companies make anything comparable. In fact, companies that specialize in making aluminum shafts will not make one that's compatible.

4. Get OEM driveshaft from GM.
OEM PN: 15165398 (i have it memorized)
This is the only way you can get a new one. It is made by Spicer and even though their number is on the tag (Spicer PN: 923419-1610M) it is not available for aftermarket sale to the public due to licensing by GM (specifically and originally made for OEM use by GM so GM order only).


I didn't want to take any chances, so I spent $550/shipped on a brand new OEM unit from a GM warehouse online. It should arrive in a few days. This seems like the only option if you don't want any potential headaches.

The GM PN includes front slip yoke and Spicer u-joints.

Thanks for the suggestions. Much appreciated.

I'm not positive, but I think the Denali driveshaft is different from that of the SSS. Odd.. but make sure to cross reference PNs I listed above in case they aren't correct for your application.

BE NICE TO YOUR DRIVESHAFTS!

Edited August 9, 2013 by demonte1997 (see edit history)