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LED Lighting Issues with Turn-Signal Hyperflash & Overhead & B


I CORNER

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Could you folks provide any assistance, for those successfully doing LED conversions?

 

- My turn signals have the too fast hyperflash now with the front "switchback" turn signal LED bulbs (white - parking mode, yellow - turn signal mode, white with yellow flash when in parking mode with T-signal on). I tried a plug in module from JDBToy thru Amazon, but it did not work (no flash at all), and I have avoided the 6 & 10 ohm resistors, as they run hot, must be mounted to metal (& away from plastic), are big/clumsy and degrade the wiring in an area subject to driving water. I noted that I cannot just replace T-signal relay either as it is integrated into a block under the dash. Anyone come up with a good reliable fix with LEDS for this problem?

 

- I discovered that my overhead console wiring (i.e. map lights, backup camera I added) are on some type of timed circuit (assumed battery saver), which also ties. When I had BU Cam alone, I could only energize the circuti by switching an incandescent bulb map light on then off. But when I went to LED map lights, that no longer worked and the map lights did not work either, unless I switched the bed light on then off. Problem is my last conversion is to replace the bed / 3rd tail light with LED as well, as which point, I fear nothing will work, as not enough current can be drawn to turn battery saver circuit on. Anyone come across this problem and figure out a fix?

 

Thanks,

Rick

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For the switchbacks, you need to run a 3 ohm resister from vleds.com to each light, 6 ohms is not good enough. I did a write up on this a while ago.

3 Ohms would result in 4.8 amps (almost 70 watts) per bulb, which is pretty high power (hi-po headlamp wattage here). Granted since it is flashing and not continuous duty, that should not melt anything. Leaving the hazard flashers on while on the roadside could be a big problem though.

 

The interesting thing that I noted was that while pulling a U-haul trailer to move my daughter home from grad school 2 weeks ago, that the turn signal (with LEDs) was perfectly normal with the trailer lights connected. Last year when I pulled a U-Haul to move her to grad school without LEDs, I did not notice the turn signals going too slow.

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Actually, Chevy requires the use of 1.5 ohms, but the 3 ohm resistors work fine for me. They don't get hot, ran them all night driving from Georgia to Florida. Had these on for almost 2 years, I think i know what I'm talking about

Edited by RebelOne (see edit history)
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Actually, Chevy requires the use of 1.5 ohms, but the 3 ohm resistors work fine for me. They don't get hot, ran them all night driving from Georgia to Florida. Had these on for almost 2 years, I think i know what I'm talking about

Now I am curious, and will have to measure the impedance of my old yellow amber front turn-signal bulbs to see what the factory impedance is. Maybe the very high wattage of near 140 Watts per bulb (with a 1.5 ohm impedance) is ok, as the turn signals and hazards are not continuously energized. Last time I ran 160 W halogen high beams, 10 years ago, one bulb exploded after barely 10 minutes of use, due to the intense heat in a small bulb.

 

Are you saying that you operated your turn signals or hazard lights "all night driving from Georgia to Florida"? Otherwise, I am not sure how that applies to intermittent duty turn signals or constant flashing hazard lights.

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Yeah i had my turn signals on the whole time, come on now, think about your questions. The driving lights were on, which is the same bulb. But, do what you want man, i know mine work great, so good luck with yours

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