nitrous controllers

[GI.SS]

ok im trying to figure out some nitrous related confusion I have here. I am wanting to go with a plate system such as http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/efi-wet-nitrous-systems/gm-systems/nitrous-outlet-90mm-07-12-gm-truck-plate-system.html

with a standalone tank. Im just gonna get a standard one gallon cell and run the holley blue pump with their regulator. How is everyone setting up their systems? Simple window switch to spray the full amount off the line? I am running a yank 3600 so I am trying to figure out when I should activate the nitrous and shut it off between shifts, as well as If I should run a progressive controller and which one I should use. Also timing retards, what is eveyone doing about this? I do not want to pull timing out threw the tune. Reason being, My tuner is an hr away from me, and then I will have to run the retarded timing until I can get back to him which is a pain. I plan To start with a 100 and move forward up to 200 once I have the suspension working right along with the rest of the truck. I also plan on running a FPSS (just in case). Is C16 adequate for the standalone tank? If running a standalone will I still need to up my intank pump? All of my mods are in my sig. Trying to find out how everyone is running their electronics for the systems with what units...

[skymynx]

As far as the timing, typically it's for every 50 shot you add retard the timing 1-2 degrees. I think this would be your biggest problem. Might have to take the approach of having to invest in a tuning system for yourself, so you could upload a nitrous tune or a non nitrous tune. Or you stick with the tune for a 100 shot all the time if that's not feasible.

 

As far as activation, I got to ask if you are a track guy or more of a street guy. If you are going to the track quite often it but be worth a nice progressive controller. If it's more on the street I would think it's something you could live without. It's a great thing to have but not necessary IMO. Would be a personal preference thing. I had just a push button activation on a previous car for a street setup. Loved it at the time. I won't common on the other options of activation, as I'm still new to the truck so don't even know if it's a drive by wire setup.

[GI.SS]

I play at the track more than anywhere else. I think a progressive would be the way to go to help with traction. I am fly by wire and do not want to load and unload tuning files that way. I remember seeing timing twisters but i havent found one that will work with multiple coils. I like the lingenfelter unit but for the price I dont believe it has the ability to adjust timing the way a regular box does.Id like to have one unit instead of piggy backing multiples.

 

looking into something like this for the progressive controller

http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=390

 

something like this to control timing and also to be used as a launch controller

http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=LPE&Product_Code=L460145297&Category_Code=C163

Edited August 28, 2013 by GI.SS (see edit history)

[sprayed99]

You don't need to mess with a progressive and you wont be down on power if your plan is only a 200. The only thing I would suggest is a window switch to keep you from being on the hose while the transmission is shifting. Now you step up on jets or go 2 or 3 stages a progressive controller is a must. I have maxed those plates out running only a window switch on both standard and automatic platforms with good success.

 

Many folks use a progressive controller to cheat crappy suspension set up. Do it right do it once. Now on the stand alone setup. I would look into the box that mounts where the second battery would go. You might want to PM 2Bfast as his old polished stand alone setup I built for him is for sale I believe.

 

Another thing that you need to make sure is right is the wiring... dont skimp on any of that. If you need any help let me know.

Edited August 29, 2013 by Sprayed99 (see edit history)

[Cramer]

Idk who your tuner is or what program he uses but on some pcm's through EFI Live you can run a custom operating system (cos5) this allows you to run a nitrous based tune in the background of a street tune. With my nitrous set up I will be running a low pressure dedicated fuel system but with a high pressure pump . The low pressure tuning is more precise and consistent. Like Danny said about a window switch. It is cheap and reliable and can save you tons of money. My stand alone tank is going to be in the same place Brian's is but have a few things mixed in with it.

 

Sent from my Motorola RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2

 

 

[GI.SS]

which window switches would you recommend? What are you trying to say about a low pressure system with a high pressure pump? A couple companies make the stand alone tank that bolts up in that location but are way overpriced IMO. I'm going to take a 1 gallon and modify it so it fits the same as theirs. Only confusion I have on wiring would be the window switch itself. But what exactly do you mean by doing it right?

[sprayed99]

which window switches would you recommend? What are you trying to say about a low pressure system with a high pressure pump? A couple companies make the stand alone tank that bolts up in that location but are way overpriced IMO. I'm going to take a 1 gallon and modify it so it fits the same as theirs. Only confusion I have on wiring would be the window switch itself. But what exactly do you mean by doing it right?

correct size wire, correct circuit protection, quality switches etc.

 

I have always used the trick performance window switches with good success.

 

http://www.ottperformance.com/store/pc/Trick-Performance-Dual-Window-Switch-p256.htm

 

On the stand alone you get what you pay for. Not saying your idea isnt good. I dont really pay attention to the prices as I have the means to fabricate one.

 

The low pressure system with the high pressure pump just means you have a lot of room before you go lean on fuel. The flip side to that is the fuel will get really hot as the pump is going to cycle the fuel fast.

Edited August 31, 2013 by Sprayed99 (see edit history)