Jump to content

All right, what am i doing wrong?


Recommended Posts

So, this truck is the nicest anything i've owned in a long time (almost 20 years). I f'n love this truck! So, last sunday i spent almost the entire daylight day clay barring the truck. It was smooth as silk! Next day starts my work week. I put about 500 miles M-F. Little by little i see the truck getting dirty/dusty. But i'm relishing the thought of washing it friday after work.

It washes like shit. I thoroughly rinse it first and then use Meguires Wash & Wax with a really nice wash mitt. Feels like f'n sand paper! I'm affraid of trying to scrub too hard and damage the finish. I had used almost an entire bottle of mothers spray wax with the clay bar last sunday and i figured after a good wash today i'd be ready for a hard wax tomorrow. But i feels like it needs to be clayyed again! WTF?

 

Can someone please give me some tips on how to keep it smooth?

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can see why it would be like that unless there is some sort of over spray on it. Nobody on this site has waxed there's more than me lol. I've always hand waxed it and it's never been garage kept. Outside it the hot fla sun for 10 yrs. if you clayed it and it was smooth something is up. Was it then hand wax it with a good wax like Adams meguiers or mothers and see what happens.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On top of everything I have hard water here. Water spots everywhere :thumbsdown:

 

When you say a good wax, there seems to be like 20 varieties of wax (and i dont mean brands) out there. Can you recommend a specific wax i might find right now at my local auto parts store? I'd like to order some Adams wax but i'd like to hit it with something in the mean time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well if you only clay barred the truck and didn't put anything on it afterwards you just left your paint unprotected which means any and all contaminates got into the paint hence the rough feeling. After you clay you always want to put something on it afterwards. I would personally recommend adams Americana its worth every penny for it and as far as the local auto parts store id use meguiars cleaner wax. If you need anymore info on cleaning and detailing always check out adams polishes forum those guys over there are an awesome group and you will get a lot of answers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't get the cheap autozone meguiars clay. Order the professional line meguiars clay. Also, as said before, you have to put some protection back on after clay. A clay bar is designed tonremove absolutely everything off the paint. This leaves it completely unprotected if you don't seal it backoup afterwards. If you don't plan on waxing every 6-8 weeks then you need to use a synthetic sealant. I would recommend menzerna power lock. That is my go-to poly sealant. I would still not go any longer than six months on that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just an FYI Get a good wax... an no good waxes cant be bought at the auto parts store. Adams waxes are also kinda border line.

 

Here is a link to a really nice wax for red.

http://www.chemicalguys.com/Lava_Luminous_Glow_Infusion_Epic_Shine_Formula_p/wac_310.htm

 

Thanks for that link, I'd never heard of them. :cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All these guys are right. I've only clay bared mine twice since I've had it and afterwards I put wax back on. So many waxes at the store but I'd look for something like meguiers or I use Adams. If go over it again with the bar and put something on it even if it was just a store bought till u got some good stuff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your using a spray wax to clay bar with thats the problem. I either use the quick detailer after its washed to clay bar with or just keep the truck wet and use the water as your lubricant. It should only take you an hour at the most to clay bar the entire truck. If your not waxing it afterward you have no protection with any pollutants.

 

It also depends on where you drive and the pollutants in your area. rail dust, fall out, acid rain etc. I can go over my entire truck fully detailed, and within a few days have to clay bar it again.

 

The best advice I can giver you, is in areas where you run into high pollutants. Go buy a product called Opti Coat. You wash, clay and then polish the paint to get it basically perfect. Polishing will take some time. Then use the opti coat. NO WAX.... Optic coat is hydro phobic item that dries harder than clear and seals the polish work you did and protects the clear and paint from anything penetrating it. Look it up on Youtube. I have detailed several of my customers cars with the opti coat and it works great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your using a spray wax to clay bar with thats the problem. I either use the quick detailer after its washed to clay bar with or just keep the truck wet and use the water as your lubricant. It should only take you an hour at the most to clay bar the entire truck. If your not waxing it afterward you have no protection with any pollutants.

 

It also depends on where you drive and the pollutants in your area. rail dust, fall out, acid rain etc. I can go over my entire truck fully detailed, and within a few days have to clay bar it again.

 

The best advice I can giver you, is in areas where you run into high pollutants. Go buy a product called Opti Coat. You wash, clay and then polish the paint to get it basically perfect. Polishing will take some time. Then use the opti coat. NO WAX.... Optic coat is hydro phobic item that dries harder than clear and seals the polish work you did and protects the clear and paint from anything penetrating it. Look it up on Youtube. I have detailed several of my customers cars with the opti coat and it works great.

 

 

Never use water as a lubricant to clay unless you plan on working harder to remove the scratches you have just put in the clear.

 

Use a product designed for clay and that is not a spray detailer. I personally use this

 

http://www.chemicalguys.com/Chemical_Guys_WAC_CLY_100_16_Luber_p/wac_cly_100_16.htm

 

Now Opti-Coat is a decent product if you understand how to apply it. It does have its own downsides like the UV protection isn't up to snuff.

 

After I finish the paint correction I use a sealer. The sealer depends on the color and whether it is a metallic color. I stock a few diffent waxes as well that I topcoat over the sealer. Good waxes aren't cheap but they do last.

 

The waxes I use have a minimum lifespan of 6 months and depending on how the vehicle is used they can last over a year.

 

Here are the waxes I use and on which color paints

 

Black, or Dark Metallics...which are my favorites so I have a few choices

http://www.chemicalguys.com/WAC_302_5050_Councours_Paste_Wax_p/wac_302.htm

or

http://www.chemicalguys.com/BLACK_CAR_WAX_FOR_BLACK_CARS_p/wac_307_1.htm

or

http://www.chemicalguys.com/Chemical_Guys_WAC_300_Pete_s_53_Paste_Wax_p/wac_300.htm

 

Medium tone metallics and light colors.... especially reds, oranges, and yellows!

http://www.chemicalguys.com/Lava_Luminous_Glow_Infusion_Epic_Shine_Formula_p/wac_310.htm

 

I have also used this, but only once as I didnt own the pot..... Holy Crap this stuff is awesome!!!!

http://www.chemicalguys.com/Paste_Wax_Natures_Finest_E_zyme_Concours_p/n_001.htm

 

Im not a dealer of theirs! I have tried a lot of products and have found Chemical Guys to be affordable and extremely consistent.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...