Header Install

[ssnewbee]

Hey guys,

 

I am fairly new to the site, but I have read A LOT of information and the site has been very helpful. I recently bought a set of 1 7/8" ARH longtubes with the high flow cats. I have gotten all the old exhaust off with little problems (even with a hacksaw). However, prior to starting on the driver side manifold I realized that the back manifold bolt closest to the firewall was not there. After taking off the manifold my biggest nightmare came to reality.. The bolt is broken off in the head. I have no idea how this would have happened as it looks like the truck has never been worked on and I've never had an exhaust leak (that I noticed anyway). It is broken off flush or maybe slightly recessed. I have read as much as I could find about this and the little of information I can find is I'm probably stuck with having to remove my head. So I have a few questions to ask you experienced guys.

 

Any other solutions to getting it out without removing that head? I don't know if i trust myself drilling it. (that is if i can even get a 90 degree drill in there)

 

I am going to re-use my stock gaskets. Since it didn't leak before would it hold with gasket sealant and leaving the bolt?? Are we supposed to use gasket sealant with the stock gaskets??

 

This is my first set of headers and I am stuck and need some insight on what to do at this point. Any information on my problem and header install in general is greatly appreciated.

[T-Bag]

1st of all ARH headers = BALLER lol

Edited October 22, 2013 by Bad Ass Silvy (see edit history)

[BlueAKSSS]

The only way I have been able to get them out easily is welding a 5/16" nut onto what is left of the bolt in the head. Since the head is aluminum and the bolt is steel the mig weld will only attach to the bolt, not the head. Sometimes it takes 3-4 times of welding a nut on and trying to remove the bolt to get it out. I've done it to probably 5 6.0L LQ9's and Lq4's that I have worked on and had success every time. Very common problem with these engines I might add as well.

[BLNAWAY]

The only way I have been able to get them out easily is welding a 5/16" nut onto what is left of the bolt in the head. Since the head is aluminum and the bolt is steel the mig weld will only attach to the bolt, not the head. Sometimes it takes 3-4 times of welding a nut on and trying to remove the bolt to get it out. I've done it to probably 5 6.0L LQ9's and Lq4's that I have worked on and had success every time. Very common problem with these engines I might add as well.

good info didn't know it could be done like this

[synyster_SS]

Matt hit the nail on the head (no pun intended). Clean up what's left of the broken bolt, weld a nub onto the bolt, and then weld a nut onto the nub! As Matt said, it might take a few tries welding the nut on before the bolt will come out, but it sure beats the hell out of removing a cylinder head just to get a broken bolt out! I wouldn't try to drill the bolt out.. drill too far, and you'll have a nice stream of coolant coming out of the cylinder head.

 

I work at a GM dealership, very common issue with 6.0L motors, and higher mileage LS truck motors in general. In fact, the driver's side front and rear bolts are both broken off on my '05.. good thing I have a set of ARH 1 3/4" long tubes to install this saturday

[Blown 346]

I wouldnt re use the gaskets. New ones will save you the trouble of having to redo part of the job, and gasket sealant you use will only burn off due to heat. Just the gasket is all you need.

[ssnewbee]

thanks for all the information guys. I think I will go buy new bolts and gaskets tomorrow if I can get off work in time. Anybody tried leaving the broken stud in?? any success? I never did have a leak before the whole time it was busted off. I might try to leave it in there for now, because any exhaust shop around here is 2 weeks out and I don't have a welder at my house.

[Blown 346]

thanks for all the information guys. I think I will go buy new bolts and gaskets tomorrow if I can get off work in time. Anybody tried leaving the broken stud in?? any success? I never did have a leak before the whole time it was busted off. I might try to leave it in there for now, because any exhaust shop around here is 2 weeks out and I don't have a welder at my house.

Leaving the stud in might cause a exhaust leak from the header since once its all tightened down, that part of the header flange wont be tight against the head. It will basically act like its binding in that area. It might or might not leak. Just be prepared to possibly remove the header and remove the broken bolt if you dont remove it first.

[Fireman31]

Make sure to use OE style gaskets.....

[misterp]

I feel your pain! Been there, and got the T-shirt a few times over! Don't run without all the exhaust bolts. I would use a new gasket on the driver's side. I would also remove that broken bolt, and do the job right.

 

I've done a few broken header bolt jobs in the past, they are a PITA, but with lots of patience you can get it out. I personally would CAREFULLY use a 90-degree drill & very, very small super-high-quality bit and drill exactly down the center of the bolt. Go easy, and make sure that you are drilling in the center and truly perpendicular to the exhaust flange surface. Be careful not to drill too deep, look at the bolts you have to determine how deep you need to go. Once you've drilled the "starter hole" then drill a 1/8" hole, and if there is room then a 3/16" hole... at this point the bolt should be good & hot from friction and an easy-out will be able to remove what is left. Oh, and use the 'square' easy out, not the left-handed spiral ones.

 

You *might* be able to make more room to work by removing the plastic inner fenderwell (not hard to do) and temporarily uncoupling the steering shaft. It's a long-winded job, but will you will be a lot better to spending an hour to do this surgery than several hours + the $$$ to remove and reinstall the head.

 

Mr. P.

[canadianVRss]

I would also remove that broken bolt, and do the job right.

 

Mr. P.

This ^^^ doesn't matter if you pull the head or drill it out in place... Get it out. The peace of mind is worth it.

[BLOWN SS/T]

I saw this thread and just went out to the back and pulled off the exhaust bolts. I've had my LT's sitting for 2-3 years now. I sprayed them with wd-40 for about 2-3 hours. I didn't realize till I got to the drivers side but the front bolt was missing. I'm hoping it just was never put in for whatever reason then someone trying to have taken it out and busted the bolt. I should have put a spare bolt that I pulled and see if it would have went into that hole to know for sure but didn't think about it at the time.

But I've worked on a few f-body's and know what is like to have one break Sux. I remember we ran one car and barely had a leak if not any with that car.

 

I'll get the rest of the exhaust off tomorrow hopefully and plugs.

Oh and my I left my friend drive my truck about a month ago and the ac went out (I know he was punchin it cuz I told to race another one of my buddies truck I was riding in 'bolt on lighting') I never bothered looking at to see what the problem was I just parked it and haven't drivin it. So today while I was pulling the bolts I look at the fuses and go to look down at that crank pulley I see the ac serpentine belt was off track and split in half lol. Luckily I have spare parts off a ls3 and belt was the same and even the main belt was the same so changed both of those out. Only 8k mile on them and free

[BLOWN SS/T]

SOB bolts off the converters broke and only having an angle grinder and ton of hand tools made it a nightmare. But I got everything off, I'll probably install the new stuff tommrow if not Monday.

Luckily I have a few spare parts around the house, I think I'm gonna use a 6.2 escalade y pipe I have and then mate it to a stock 3.5 Duramax exhaust.