jsanders347 Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 (edited) A while back I had all the brake lines replaced on my truck due to one rupturing and the others being rusted. I paid a shop a little over $700 to replace the lines and bleed the brake system. I've had the truck back to them twice since and the brakes are still soft and the pedal has a lot of travel. If I pump them a couple times before I stop they aren't terrible but the brakes on my 2006 Chevrolet express 2500 work van are 10 times better. I'm assuming there's air in the lines. Is there a specific way to bleed brakes on these trucks that the shop can't figure out? Do they need to be put on a machine or anything like that? I asked to have the $100 back that they charged me to bleed the brakes so I could just do it myself but they insisted they could handle it but I'm tired or taking it to them. So is there a trick to bleeding them that I don't know of? Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk Edited March 13, 2014 by Sanders (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 The only trick is to start bleeding the brakes at the furthest wheel away from the master cylinder. So you would do the rear passenger side brake first, then the driver rear, passenger front and then driver front for last. Are you sure your master cylinder isnt going? I had this same issue and it was my master cylinder, took all of 20 minutes to replace and I had nice firm brakes. Thats what it sounds like to me. Putting in all new brake lines takes more effort and thought than bleeding the brakes IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kissfans03ss Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 The only trick is to start bleeding the brakes at the furthest wheel away from the master cylinder. So you would do the rear passenger side brake first, then the driver rear, passenger front and then driver front for last. Are you sure your master cylinder isnt going? I had this same issue and it was my master cylinder, took all of 20 minutes to replace and I had nice firm brakes. Thats what it sounds like to me. Putting in all new brake lines takes more effort and thought than bleeding the brakes IMO. agreed there has to be something else wrong but make sure they are using a pressure bleeder in works better than bleeding the old fashioned way. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedro1452 Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 Had problems getting mine bled last time had to use tech II to release air from abs solenoid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsanders347 Posted March 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 I hadn't thought about the master cylinder. I'll look into replacing that. What's a tech ll? Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aldofashow Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 I bought one of these haven't used it yet I got it for when I do the zo6 calipers and hydro boost. http://bit.ly/1qB4iuT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 (edited) A tech 2 is a diagnostic tool/ scanner. Dealerships and larger shops have these. Bleeding the brakes isnt hard, I have never had a issue with bleeding brakes and removing air from the lines, ever. I would look into the master cylinder as a culprit. To check the master, basically all you have to do, is push the brake pedal in one motion until it firms up (you dont have to pump the brakes), then try and push the pedal down to the floor. If your pedal moves to the floor, thats a tell tale sign that the master isnt working properly anymore. Works for me everytime I have to diagnose a soft brake pedal after I bleed the system. Edited March 14, 2014 by Blown 346 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsanders347 Posted March 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 I bought one of these haven't used it yet I got it for when I do the zo6 calipers and hydro boost. http://bit.ly/1qB4iuT I've never seen one of those before. I like the idea of pushing fluid through the system rather than pulling it with a vacuum bleeder. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsanders347 Posted March 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 A tech 2 is a diagnostic tool/ scanner. Dealerships and larger shops have these. Bleeding the brakes isnt hard, I have never had a issue with bleeding brakes and removing air from the lines, ever. I would look into the master cylinder as a culprit. To check the master, basically all you have to do, is push the brake pedal in one motion until it firms up (you dont have to pump the brakes), then try and push the pedal down to the floor. If your pedal moves to the floor, thats a tell tale sign that the master isnt working properly anymore. Works for me everytime I have to diagnose a soft brake pedal after I bleed the system. Yes sir that's exactly what I'm dealing with. The pedal never gets firm and travels to the floor. I'll pick up a new master cylinder and post the results after work. Thanks for the info! Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aldofashow Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 I've never seen one of those before. I like the idea of pushing fluid through the system rather than pulling it with a vacuum bleeder. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk it holds 2 quarts pump it up for pressure then walk around and bleed. Not sure if ya gotta pump it up in between calipers like I said I haven't used it yet but I figured its also good to flush out old brake fluid. I think its great for the average do it (yourself) brake job at home instead of needing someone to pump the pedal I don't like asking anyone for anything so it also saves the hassle of needing to return a favor seems I always give more then I get so 50 bucks well spent.................. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 Yes sir that's exactly what I'm dealing with. The pedal never gets firm and travels to the floor. I'll pick up a new master cylinder and post the results after work. Thanks for the info! Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk Make sure you put the master on the truck first, put the lines on it. Then have a buddy push the pedal down slowly as you have a garbage towel over the line as you loosen it to bleed it. Do that with both lines until you get a strong push of fluid and your done. Then top off the master and youll have brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsanders347 Posted March 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 Could I prime the master on a work bench? Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 You can, But I find it easier to do on the truck myself. I have the complete job done in about 15 minutes from removing the old one to the new in, bled and driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsanders347 Posted March 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 Cool thanks for the info. Napa didn't have the part nor did advance auto. I'll get the part in the morning and hopefully have time to do it tomorrow Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted March 15, 2014 Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 I got mine at oreily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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