BLOWN SS/T Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 Had the evening free so I decided to pull the factory balancer out for the UDP. I had a strap I was gonna use to hold the pulley while loosening the bolt, but it was an inch too short. So I ended up jamming an extension through the pulley and that worked, I heated up the bolt for a few seconds with 2 lighters and used a 1/2" breaker bar and a pipe over it, took alittle muscle and heard it give in. So got that off and rushed down to autozone to rent a puller, and when I got home realized it was broken and its the flimsy puller. I thought I was gonna have this swapped within an hour but didn't happen lol dam store was closed and I was cussing up a storm lol. Anyways ill try and keep the questions short and simple, but I only have tomorrow night and Thursday night after work to get this done if im gonna make it out to the track for Friday night test n tune. 1. question is about the pulling of the stock balancer, am I able to pull this off either using the stock crank bolt just treaded in a bit or with placing a 3/8 extension into the crank? 2. Question is about the torqueing spec. What I understand is that ill start the new UDP on the snout and thread the old bolt, and tighten that down to 240 ft/lb of torque (and from my understanding this is to set the new pulley), then remove the old bolt and put in the new bolt and only torque that down to 37ft/lb of torque and then turn 140 degrees.I know some people use the longer bolt to start the new pulley but from what ive collected the ASP specifically can be installed without the need of the longer bolt. I also have an SLP UDP but not using that one on the truck for that reason and because its a bit heavier then the ASP. Thanks in advance guys PS ill be going into autozone before work to get the right tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AugustBurnsRed19 Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 Harmonic balancer can be crazy on these things! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12'SROCK Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 You need a 3 jaw puller. I have always zapped them on with the impact and had zero issues with countless crank pulleys that I have removed/installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GI.SS Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 I always put an extension threw the balancer and block, break the bolt free. unthread a few turns then use a 3 jaw puller to pull off. when installing use the old bolt with a couple dabs of oil to put the balancer on. take old bolt out. new bolt goes in with a couple drops of oil on it. tighten the holy hell out of her. my tq wrench doesnt go over 150ft lbs so i just get her as tight as I possibly can. never an issue EVER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chpspecial Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 If you are using a stock tty bolt then the procedure is correct. If switching to a reusable bolt such as an arp, follow the arp install instructions. Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOWN SS/T Posted June 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 If you are using a stock tty bolt then the procedure is correct. If switching to a reusable bolt such as an arp, follow the arp install instructions. Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk I'll be using a new TTY bolt, just wanna confirm again. So the final torque on the new bolt will only be 37ft/lb plus 140 degrees? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOWN SS/T Posted June 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 I always put an extension threw the balancer and block, break the bolt free. unthread a few turns then use a 3 jaw puller to pull off. when installing use the old bolt with a couple dabs of oil to put the balancer on. take old bolt out. new bolt goes in with a couple drops of oil on it. tighten the holy hell out of her. my tq wrench doesnt go over 150ft lbs so i just get her as tight as I possibly can. never an issue EVER GI are you using an UDP or is this with the factory balancer. Is your final torque with the new bolt past 150 ft/lb? My wrenches only got to 150 but I'll be picking up a 250 ft lb tommorow night. And are you just using regular engine oil, and is it the balancer rim or the bolt threads that you oil? Thanks guys and wicked I sure wish I had some air tools in my garage too, would make life easier. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12'SROCK Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 Dude... trust me just zap it on with the impact to seat it and replace with new bolt and zap it again with the impact. Done.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12'SROCK Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 If you were closer or dont mind the drive I would put it on for you...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GI.SS Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 factory balancer. tq'd via arp's instruction with their bolt. i like to clean everything really well and use assembly lube on most stuff to make the parts go together easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOWN SS/T Posted June 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 Dude... trust me just zap it on with the impact to seat it and replace with new bolt and zap it again with the impact. Done....But now that I have the factory bolt out, say if I were to just go down the street a shop with an impact gun to have them install the new one. Am I safe to just screw the factory bolt in and tighten down and make a quick drive? I think I got the right puller from the parts store now, if not I'll see about ordering the OTC 6667 from o'rileys. Just hate when I don't finish a project cuz I work 12 plus hours and by the time I get home it's dark and everything is closed lol. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12'SROCK Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 But now that I have the factory bolt out, say if I were to just go down the street a shop with an impact gun to have them install the new one. Am I safe to just screw the factory bolt in and tighten down and make a quick drive? I think I got the right puller from the parts store now, if not I'll see about ordering the OTC 6667 from o'rileys. Just hate when I don't finish a project cuz I work 12 plus hours and by the time I get home it's dark and everything is closed lol. Thanks Yeah you will be fine taking it to a shop to hit it with an impact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOWN SS/T Posted June 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 Ok got it off at home, went straight to work on this as soon as I got home. I threaded the old bolt and used the new 3 jaw puller and could tell it was moving off, I tried the 3/8 extension but seemed like that wasn't moving it, and when I pulled the extension off I realized the pointy area of the puller got flattened out while pressing against the extension. I was still able to use it, struggled alittle more but kept loosening the bolt and finally it wouldn't press it out anymore, I grabbed a crowbar and had some help, while I was under the truck pulling on one end with help of the crowbar on the other side and it finally came off lol felt like superman. So anyways lubed up the new one and reinstalled with the old bolt, and locked the flexplate with a screwdriver through the inspection hole on the driver side of trans. Busted out the 1/2 torque wrench and it only goes to 150ft/lb and that was easily maxed out. Ill end up picking up a 250ft/lb tq wrench tomorrow after work and get it tightened up and remove bolt and install new bolt, torque to the 37 ft/lb plus 120 degree turn.Was wondering is the additional 120 degree turn after 37ft lb equivalent to tightening down to 240ft/lb? Should has this done tomorrow night hopefully, as long as I don't have to work to late. Thanks again everyone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOWN SS/T Posted June 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 Got everything bolted back, old bolt to 240ft/lb and then replaced with new bolt at 37ft/lb plus the 120 degree turn per ASP instructions. I start it up and I hear a click-clack type sound, couldn't exactly tell where it was coming from. Before the engine gets to temp and fans kick on the sound went away, and let the engine run for a little and sound was gone. Turned the engine off and on and no more noise. Was thinking maybe the new UDP wasn't tightened down all the away and was loose casing the sound, or something in the valve train. Any possibility I could have screwed anything up under the valve covers with the loosening or tightening of the crank bolt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12'SROCK Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 How long was your truck sitting for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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