Aksonny Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 My check engine light comes on flashing whenever I accelerate over 50mph and the light doesn't stay on only when I accelerate it starts flashing. I can go 65mph and cruise at that speed then it shuts off after a while and after 65mph it bogs really bad and doesn't have much power or response. Anyone have any input on my situation before I start taking out the plugs or rip out the cats? I would go check it on a computer but the light doesn't stay on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 Sounds like a clogged catalytic converter, avoid going WOT until checking them out. The flashing CEL usually signifies a catalyst damaging random engine misfire. You are supposed to shut the truck down and pull over ASAP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aksonny Posted November 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 Thanks for your input. Thank god I have a warranty if anything bad did happen to the engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS-GTP Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 I second that, a flashing CEL is too be interpretive as take action now, damage is being done. I don't encourage driving it to hook it up to a scanner, but even though the light is not on the codes will stay in the ECU history for awhile if you do happen to get to a scanner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aksonny Posted November 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 Is there a way to take out the cats and just weld a straight pipe onto it? Would there be sensors that I have to take out? And will the engine light still flash if the cats are removed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LilEz02 Posted November 4, 2014 Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 I had that exact issue on my old supercharged Tahoe. It was a clogged driver side cat. I cut them out to weld in straight pipe but found it way easier to just hollow cats and weld back in. The straight pipe has to be very precisely welded in cause it needs to line up right to bolt Y pipe back in. You will get a check engine light steady after that cause the rear O2 sensors will know something's different. The rear O2s can be shut off in the tune by a good tune guy or you can research and "trick" them using spark plug foulers but that's hit and miss if it will work for you. Hollow cats do sound a lot different I will say. Takes some getting use to. Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aksonny Posted November 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 I'll probably cut the cats off and gut them and change the plugs and wires because the previous owner did a piss poor job of taking care of the truck they probably weren't changed in a long time then see if that does the trick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueAKSSS Posted November 4, 2014 Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 I'll probably cut the cats off and gut them and change the plugs and wires because the previous owner did a piss poor job of taking care of the truck they probably weren't changed in a long time then see if that does the trick I would check your codes before doing work on your truck, but like others have said definitely sounds like clogged cats. Just swing by O'reillys or Autozone and borrow a scanner. I saw your truck driving through the Carrs parking lot a couple days ago and the exhaust sounded really leaky so that might be something to check out. (At least I think it was yours) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aksonny Posted November 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 I'll check it tomorrow at oreillys right down the road. I got a welder and saw zaw ready to use then I'll double check the whole exhaust for leaks and weld them if there is any Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doughty08 Posted November 5, 2014 Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 I cut my cats out when the clogged up and drove it with straight pipe for over a year without a tune and never threw a code. Just put new cats in it a month back and now it's saying I need two after o2 sensors. Crazy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammerdog Posted November 5, 2014 Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 On my 97 chevy z71 has a misfire on cylinder 6 I think my cats are stopped up but muffler shop said they couldnt change them unless I fixed the codes first so how do I find out for sure that it is the cats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aksonny Posted November 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 Just cut out my cats and one side was clogged and I welded straight pipes in and what a difference! My truck runs and sounds like a bat straight outta hell! No more engine code either and I shoulda done this when I first bought it! Thanks a lot guys this site saved me so much from looking around online. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammerdog Posted November 6, 2014 Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 Can I cut the cats out if I have o2 sensor behind the cat.also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aksonny Posted November 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 I cut my cats out and the o2 sensor wasn't on the cat it was behind it and it's not throwing me any codes at all. Note: if you have a stock truck I noticed a drop in low end torque but an improvement in the mid and high end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammerdog Posted November 6, 2014 Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 Thanks for the info I'll try that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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