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Headlight Help / Pic request


CaptKirk

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Thanks for all the info man, much appreciated. I decided against the LED thing, I saw the cooling fin versions and a few of your older posts about fitment and decided to play it safe with HIDs, at least people are making them work and have for years now.

 

I bought a good set of morimotos cause I have seen my brother deal with issues of eBay HIDs. (I'm sure theres good sets on eBay too, I just played it as safe as possible. I want these to be set and forget and I didn't have weeks to do research on Ebay)

 

They're 5k 35w, the truck is taller than most cars and I'll be shining them into the back seat of cars at stoplights already, 55w would just make me 'that guy'. In a lowered car, I might've sprung for them.

 

Question: so do the HIDs stay on with the drls, or am I safe? I know they're finicky with voltage input and I think the drls get something different than reg headlight signal

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My truck is an 04 and the lights only come on when its in a dark place. I put early leds high output in the high beams and leave on the high beams until its dark then I use my low beams hids. If you pull your daytime running bulbs you will notice the socket will show signs of being too hot, they even may start to cumble due to high heat from the 4114(14v) bulb.

 

I have heard some guys running 3157 bulbs but generally they wont last long however some guys report they have had good luck with that bulb. That socket is running 14v and it gets a lot of heat. I installed the resistor in my sons 2002 Tahoe with the 3157 led and so far after 9mos it is still going strong. By the way I put 55w 6k hids in my truck and it is way overkill. The 55w bled out most of the blue and they are almost prue white. Very little hint of blue.

 

I have hids in the fogs (35w 6k) and I love them. So far the cheap ebays hids have worked fine for me and I sell them on Craigs list. I have had two with bad lead wires and have sold over 24 sets. I would love to run the leds but the Malibu and the trucks fogs are the only place for them.

 

They now have fast bright hids that lamp up in one second, so I have ordered several sets. Funny thing the 55w fast bright are cheaper than the 35w fast bright. This is a good thing as you can run hids low and high without 7 seconds of no lights(especially switching from low to high) unless you've done the mod to run all 4 lights.

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Don't get confused with the flasher thing as this is just a voltage reducer. My truck is totally led as I had my speedo done and the only thing not is the right side controls such as air/heat/fan. I have a led flasher wich eliminated all of the load resistors on the turn signals . You can run leds in anything that doesn't flash with no problem. Beware of China bulbs saying t20 with 3157 bulbs. T20 is a 7443 which looks like a 3157 but is slightly smaller. Buy only T25/3157 bulbs or 194 goes in doors,tag,map light and 3rd brake light,cargo light (haven't found one bright enough) Dome 42mm.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well I'm reviving this because I'm having a related issue. I got the HIDs installed and got all the kinks worked out (at first I had power routed to the jumper spot and it was confusing the alternator). They're working great and have been for about a week now.

 

Just a day or two ago, when it gets dark enough out and the hid's come on, my dash lights go out or are very, very dim. But you can barely tell that they're trying to light up... has anyone had this problem after installing HIDs?

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Yeah, happened to me on my SS and on my previous truck. I had actually four HID's running on at all times, and when I tried to even roll up the windows or some, all the lights would dim.

Not sure what causes this, my wild guess would be the alternator, but im just saying.

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Hey thanks for all the replies guys. I have company over so wasn't able to check this till today. I'll contact the hid manufacturer and see what they say.

 

In the meantime I'll investigate the engine to frame ground, thanks!

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