jon316 Posted November 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 Found a rebuild kit on rockauto for $150 looking at the ring and pinion just in case that's chewed up as well. But I'm guessing I'll need the 4.11s? Just looking at all my options before I dive into the $800 new diff. Considering if I do take that option im gonna do it myself. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted November 27, 2015 Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 Well I wasn't there so not sure if it was aluminum or steel that's just what he said. But if it has a magnetic drain plug and its spewing out of the fluid I would imagine it's pretty bad. For sure doing a full rebuild. May consider just getting a new one and swapping it myself but time for me is really tough. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Yea, if it's spewing fluid that sounds to me like case damage. Rebuilds seem to average around $1,100.00. (Mine ran a little more). My thinking is that brand new for $400.00 more is a deal. (The $1500 you mentioned). Hope Alan's link works out for you. That sounds like a good deal. Best luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aldofashow Posted November 27, 2015 Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 I'm getting up some money for one now I just got a new transfer case from the dealer but they don't offer a front diff anymore this was the best price I could find on a reman diff even Ebay ones were in the $1200.00 price range and I personally would rather deal direct with whoever is doing the work I can't wait much longer as I'm feeling like mine is running on borrowed time at 170,000 miles feels like it's got a lot of play and axle seals are leaking so it's time after that my whole drivetrain will be brand new for the first time since 2002-2003 ready for the next decade of hard driving Best of luck on your search Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon316 Posted November 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2015 Lmao I have have 171k !! Transfer case is also new. Looks like we're going down the same path. Coming from someone who had a cummins before this and several other trucks(all chevy of course) I love this truck. And the money it's costing me is not a bother at all. Best of luck to you as well! Ps happy thanksgiving everyone Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon316 Posted December 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2015 Dad sent me these. Guess this is what I'm workin with. Says it smells like a portapotty warehouse up in flames lol. Should I even rebuild it or just go with another new one from that website for $950. I plan to keep the truck for a good while and tow with it as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aldofashow Posted December 9, 2015 Report Share Posted December 9, 2015 I'm personally going with a new one and saving my old one to rebuild and swap after the next 170,000 miles so I can just swap it out and be back on the road same day no down time but yours is already out but remember a rebuilt one is only as good as the guy rebuilding it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon316 Posted December 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 Yea the guys good he's always hooked my dad up, only issue is what I've come across now. Apparently there's some bearing races that were shot. The rebuild kit brought them but they're not big enough either. I would imagine I can order over sized ones? Anyone have some insight on this? Here are some pics He says it just slides in and out. And then here are the bearings as well, shot! Worse part about all this is im nowhere near the truck so forgive me if I'm not giving enough info, I barely have it myself. I'm caught up with work and take night classes so haven't been able to step in and take a look. Wish I had the time to do it my damn self would of done same, buy another and rebuild this one for when the new one goes bad. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aldofashow Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 I just ordered one last night see how she looks when it gets here hopefully I'm done revamping my drivetrain it's been a long list this year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon316 Posted December 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 I'm trying to figure something out. I brought the half diff to work to have it welded and machined. But a buddy of mine says that it may have to slide in there like that and the pressure of everything tightened up keeps everything in place d the race won't spin. It's pretty decently tight but still spins around and I can take it out easily. After I cleaned it up the space got worse. The tapered roller bearing ring just slides right in and out Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon316 Posted December 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 Also how do I remove that bearing that is currently in there? Pressing it or unscrewing the other side? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS-GTP Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 How does the opposite side (other half of the case) bearing race fit? I don't remember how tight mine where, but with the case being cracked it may of relieved some of the press fit. Second to remove that bearing there is a locking tang on the other side that needs bent out of the way then it just threads out (might need some persuasion). Before doing that first somehow mark the ring on each side of the tang so that you know which slot the tang was in. Then count the number of turns to thread that adjuster out. Keep track of the information to help setup the diff when you are ready to re-assemble it. Because these 2 races (one on each side of the carrier) are designed to slide they are not going to have a lot of press. They side so that you can get the proper contact with the pinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon316 Posted December 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2015 I figured it out it was pressed in. I also found a machine shop they're gonna take care of it. They've had similar jobs like it before. Should be getting it back by tommorow then rebuild kit goes in. Hoping to have the truck back before the end of this year ! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon316 Posted January 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 So other side is now cracked as well. Gonna need machining too. I may just opt out for a new diff. But I also found a local parts truck same year SS but it's a 2wd and has a fresh rebuilt trans. May just jump and make mine a 2wd instead. Relieve myself of this front diff madness! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mctwist77 Posted January 7, 2016 Report Share Posted January 7, 2016 Jon, I would not use that diff with those cracks there. Thats pretty bad, you should go and bitch about it to GM. That shouldn't happen unless you hit something with the diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon316 Posted January 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 It's too late now lol, I went ahead and ordered a new one from Provenforce. The guy with the 2wd never responded. Oh well. $1200 short this week lol! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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