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AWD testing on a 2WD dyno?


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Went to schedule a dyno test, and lo and behold, my truck is too long for the AWD dyno!!!! :fume: Now how on earth am I supposed to be scientific about measuring the performance increase with out a baseline test? :confused: This leaves me with just comparing before and after 1/4 mile times. I found another AWD dyno, but it is not available to the public, being a captive R&D dyno for GIAC. I am running out of time before the supercharger gets installed! :eek:

 

Do any of you GM techs lurking out there know how the AWD system responds to being dyno tested with the front wheels off the ground? It sounds rather kludgy and dangerous, but one dyno shop offered to do it that way. Would you get a reading of all the power or just the 60% that is directed to the rear wheels?

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Went to schedule a dyno test, and lo and behold, my truck is too long for the AWD dyno!!!!   :fume:  Now how on earth am I supposed to be scientific about measuring the performance increase with out a baseline test? :confused:   This leaves me with just comparing before and after 1/4 mile times.  I found another AWD dyno, but it is not available to the public, being a captive R&D dyno for GIAC.  I am running out of time before the supercharger gets installed! :eek:

 

Do any of you GM techs lurking out there know how the AWD system responds to being dyno tested with the front wheels off the ground?  It sounds rather kludgy and dangerous, but one dyno shop offered to do it that way.  Would you get a reading of all the power or just the 60% that is directed to the rear wheels?

How about removing the front driveshaft? Thats what I'm planning on doing... ;)

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How about removing the front driveshaft? Thats what I'm planning on doing... ;)

I have heard of the SyTy folks doing that, but will I still get all the power to the rear? I am not sure how the computer, traction control, etc all work when the front wheels are unloaded. :confused::confused:

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It will set off an SES light if you unhook the front driveshaft. I dont know if it will actually put the truck into "slug" mode or if its just a warning. I guess it wouldn't hurt to try. Heck, there are only 4 small bolts holding the front driveshaft in place. Remove the bolts from the front yoke and the rear will pull directly out of the transfer case. You'll probably have to pull down the drivers side exhaust pipe to get at it. Drive it around and see how it feels. If it sets a code, you cna just reset the PCM to clear it, then put the driveshaft back on.

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It will set off an SES light if you unhook the front driveshaft. I dont know if it will actually put the truck into "slug" mode or if its just a warning. I guess it wouldn't hurt to try. Heck, there are only 4 small bolts holding the front driveshaft in place. Remove the bolts from the front yoke and the rear will pull directly out of the transfer case. You'll probably have to pull down the drivers side exhaust pipe to get at it. Drive it around and see how it feels. If it sets a code, you cna just reset the PCM to clear it, then put the driveshaft back on.

If it has a slip yoke then there is no possible way that will work. Because if that is done, then all the fluid will come out of the transfer case. I'm pretty sure that it doesnt have a slip yoke in the front though

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  • 1 month later...

Has anyone come up with a reasonable solution to dynoing the truck in '2wd' mode? Can we unhook the front drive line?

 

The first thing I plan on doing when I get my truck is to go dyno it... which is convenient for me since I have a dyno. :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

You WILL damage something if you unhook the front driveline.

You will cook the viscous coupler.

With the front driveline unhooked, the viscous fluid will heat up and direct up to 100% torque to the wheels with traction (the rear wheels). However, the whole time the viscous fluid will be getting hotter and hotter. Sending 100% torque to either axle for too long of a time will cause the viscous fluid to overheat and burn out your t-case.

 

This is explained in the service manual!

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You WILL damage something if you unhook the front driveline.

You will cook the viscous coupler.

With the front driveline unhooked, the viscous fluid will heat up and direct up to 100% torque to the wheels with traction (the rear wheels).  However, the whole time the viscous fluid will be getting hotter and hotter.  Sending 100% torque to either axle for too long of a time will cause the viscous fluid to overheat and burn out your t-case.

 

This is explained in the service manual!

 

I was going that route too... But the new parts alone are about 1k. Hardly seems worth it for a dyno pull...

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Could always throw in an Auto-trac transfer case from a regular K1500.  Swapping t-cases isn't too big a deal if you've got the t-case and a lift.  ;)

What part of MN are you located in SinisterSS

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