BenKey Posted January 23, 2005 Report Share Posted January 23, 2005 In a hard launch with this truck, always had front wheel spin. Never rear, without some front first. That is why I was going to start with just an adjustable shock for the rear and see how the different settings worked. Equal 4-wheel spins is probably about the best you can hope for. Don't think wheel spin is something you'll be able to get away from even with the AWD. Not with as much power as you'll be putting down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimC3 Posted January 23, 2005 Report Share Posted January 23, 2005 Remember the video of the pewter C3 that was into the 12's (11's? I can't remember.. )? I don't remember the guys name or any details of his truck for that matter, but it seemed like when that truck launched, it rocked side to side as the front clawed for grip.. I know you guys know what I'm talking about.. If someone can find that video, please post a link again. Anyway, was that rocking side to side a good thing? I'm not an experienced track guy so I don't know.. I would think that if you could tune the suspension so that you got less of that, you prolly shave a tenth or so that way too. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperDave Posted January 23, 2005 Report Share Posted January 23, 2005 Has anyone played with tire compounds and air pressure bias front to rear to see if the grip was improved? Seems like less pressure and different compound for track days would help out a lot. I run nitrogen in my tires, this will help a little also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimC3 Posted January 23, 2005 Report Share Posted January 23, 2005 Has anyone played with tire compounds and air pressure bias front to rear to see if the grip was improved? Seems like less pressure and different compound for track days would help out a lot. I run nitrogen in my tires, this will help a little also. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Good call.. And if I remember right that C3 did this run on 20's??? Come on someone has that video I know it.. I'm sure you'd have more room to play with tire pressure on 16's/17's... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2bseen Posted January 25, 2005 Report Share Posted January 25, 2005 Well yesterday on my first run, I did 2 small 4 wheels burn outs of about 2-3 ft b/f I got to the light and turned the n20 on and was spinning for about 12 or so ft and had to drive the truck to keep it straight. I checked the tire pressure, I am running chrome 20s with 275/45 kumho estras and I had 39 psi in them so I lowered the pressure to 35psi and the 2nd run only spin about 8 ft. I have run as low as 1.66 60 ft but could only get 1.72 yesterday. I did also have a syclone back in 1991 and it was running 1.60 60fts at 7.3-7.4 but it was much lighter. I could only get to 12.21 yesterday and I think that a 1.5s 60ft is as good as the driveline will support but I hope I am wrong. My truck has the lowered spindles and lowered rear kit also. I don't know if this is helping or hurting me. I am working on a new setup to get the truck in the 11s with the stock short block and hope to try it out by the end of march. Also I am looking for a set of light wieght 18" tires and put some drag radials on but it is very hard to get the tires hot if the track is not preped. Good luck with the 1000 hp but I think it will break lots of parts and be in the shop more than you drive it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperDave Posted January 25, 2005 Report Share Posted January 25, 2005 1000 HP will probably blow up the viscous coupler in the transfer case.... if the input shaft of the trans doesn't go first! If you want reliability with that much power, you're gonna have to upgrade the entire driveline! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_w Posted January 28, 2005 Report Share Posted January 28, 2005 2wd vs AWD - I think it's a rock and a hard place. We all know the weight differences. I think the only time AWD won't make a difference is when you have enough weight transfer to carry the front wheels. If you convert to 2wd, can you get enough bite to get a good weight transfer like you did in AWD? I don't know... ----- Erik, How about running some limiting straps on the front end? I'm wondering if it will at least help with torque steer with a heavier spring rate (or weight) pushing down on the wheels. My theory is, without them - you get more weight transfer and the wheels are extended out pawing at the pavement with a weak spring rate (or weight) behind them. How about an Eaton E-locker or ARB air locker for the front? (I have no idea if they're made for the fronts) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoolBlueSS Posted January 29, 2005 Report Share Posted January 29, 2005 Wow!! This has turned into "The Big Debate". You want weight transfer for obvious reasons, but you don't want so much that you have the front wheels coming up and up. You want foward motion, not upward motion. When you're up in the 700-800+ HP range you also have toconsider the twisting motion from engine torque on the driveline. Adjustable coilover shocks, airbags, or something like that to adjust for front to rear, side to side transfer may work. You'd just have to play with it I guess. Or if you could use like a multi-stage clutch type of system for the viscous coupling. Some way to transfer the power to the wheels that grip, and transfers power back to the remaining wheels when they start to grip. Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posi12Bolt Posted January 31, 2005 Report Share Posted January 31, 2005 ok so I really have nothing important to say here EXCEPT.... I wanna do an AWD burnout on dry pavement!!! That is the only cool part about the wet weather, I did a donut the other morning in the parking lot after being at work for 12 hours...it made the night!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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