wildhawker

Yesterday was the big day... had the truck tuned on the dyno. We did 4 pulls (one baseline, and 3 post-tune) overall. The effective physical modifications to the truck (2007 GMC VMax) are an Outlaw CAI and a Corsa cat-back sport exhaust. After backing off the shift management and adding in some advance, we had to richen up 4000-5000 due to slight knock retard. It started to quench the cats about 115MPH, and we decided not to adjust it, so she'll lose some up top when the exhaust gas gets hot. By the fourth pull, my 4WD tired started to get hot and bounce, so we quit at that point. Overall, the biggest imrovement is the lack of hesitation on the 1-2 shift. After the tires got hot, we didn't take it past 115MPH, so I'm sure the numbers reflect an early shutdown. Between pulls 3 and 4, I traded 1.5 HP for a more linear torque curve. When it was all said and done, it left the shop with SAE corrected and loaded numbers of 298RWHP and 393RWTQ peak. So... now my questions are: How does this fare against similar modded trucks, how fast do cams come in the mail? In all seriousness, do you have any thoughts on how to improve, or should I hang tight until I persue the cam later this year?

We used to wrap the metal intake tubes with the insulating wrap with adhesive backing... better than plain! I'm sure Jet-Hot would help, but worth the money? Not unless you race. For the cost of coating, you can buy a composite tube.

I think I will add some weatherstrip foam around the side to completely seal the inside of the engine compartment. Also, I may try and fab a ram air scoop from the debris hole on the bottom next week. The guy who did my dyno/tune works with the R&D guys at Volant and tests their stuff- he likes the volant with the scoop but was impressed by the air temps from the Outlaw.

PM sent

Grill is in! Now to install it! Got the TRex grille and bumper inserts. We'll see how it looks soon.

Did you have fitment issues with yours? Mine went in decent, but I might want to address the seal against the fender. Also, the tube mated fine to the TB, but wanted to "push" the MAF and filter cockeyed/into the housing. It seems like it will work, I didn't hear any leaks, but will check with carb cleaner tomorrow. Off to the dyno she goes!

Yep, it is on the way- I have my UPS tracking number Now, I'm off to the dyno Thursday.

My first impression as well. They seemed cleaner looking, less ricey and no amber

10-4 on that. If only the amber in the stockers would just disappear...

Ok, here's a brief primer on why, unfortunately, this doesn't work in the real world... 1. I think his *main* point was racing should be on-track, and not on-street. The forum issue is irrelevant to me, and probably to most as well. 2. If they "f up and slam into the back of you", you have (for all involved) possible medical damages, possible loss of work damages, possible criminal charges, possible real property damages, possible civil and punitive damages and other impacts associated thereto. Whiplash is not fun; litigation is, I daresay, worse than whiplash. It takes years... in the mean time, it can be a long, boring, frustrating and financially harmful (can someone say bankruptcy?) process- and that's when you are the plaintiff! Imagine being a defendant. Expensive- lawyers are about $300/hour now, plus fees and expenses. This "litigation fixes all", sue everything attitude will get us all in trouble at some point. Like my dad used to say, "I'll be out of jail before you're out of the hospital." Death is even worse than that... especially when *you* screw up and *they* die (even worse when it's a bystander or a child), if one has any sense of morality at all. 3. I do worry about morons racing in the street, and I do stay stressed out- for a reason. I have seen people die, up close and personal. I have seen accidents come at me, spinouts by drunks where there is no where to run. I worry about my employees getting hurt or killed- it does happen. We build and work on freeways and other public infrastructure (in Los Angeles and other parts of SoCal), and let me tell you, I'd love to see you set cones (with no protection) on a busy freeway and see two headlights (many times) coming at you at 70+ every day, multiple times a night, and see how you feel about the "traveling public". I bet your blood pressure would spike just a tad, just like ours does. I don't mean to sound crass, but that was an ignorant and arrogant statement you made. From one who has personally wrecked (and survived, doing the very dumb things in question here) and witnessed some pretty gruesome scenes, I hope you might revisit this potentially dangerous attitude and reevaluate the supposed neccessity of racing in the street. If you need entry money to the track, I'll gladly donate some rather than meet you in a bad way on the 405...

Ok- I need your opinions, advice, two cents and general subjectivity (I mean, objectivity)... So, here are the goals (aesthetics, anyway): Item 1. Billet grill and bumper inserts, Done Friday- TRex Billet 2. Clear parking lenses, Done Friday- TYC 3. Head lights & Philips HIDs 4. Tail lights (LED) 5. 3rd Brake Light (Recon or Bully), Done Friday- Recon I wanted to clear the corners, but the guys I've talked to said the fuzz hates to see no amber in the head lights. I've been going back and forth reading all I can and cannot seem to get a straight answer. TYC website says their projector housings- -will not work with HID retrofit kits, but I wonder if it's better than stock non-HID housings. I'm not going to go Halo, too BMW for me (no offense to those who have them, they look cool, just not my gig). I called my dealer, they want $750 for just the OEM Sierra Denali housings that are HID-ready. Throw in a Philips HID kit for $450 (lows only), and we're at $1200 for LIGHTS . Another $50 for the halogen high lamps, and, wow... those Dynatechs are looking mighty nice... I found a new old stock set of DOT-approved XGL housings w/ the HIDs for $1000, but, damn, still $1k... The tail lights are easier. Glenn at mytightride.com is working with me on this- I stopped by his shop today in Orange, CA. Check this out: http://mytightride.com/gmc-sierra-euro-led-taillights.html The front runners are: 1. 2. 3. 4. Ok, now that the pretty pictures are all up- what do you all think? I really don't want the truck ricer-looking, but I would like the functionality of HID headlights and LED tail lights. Hence, my initial thought is to go black TYC headlight housings and either #1 or #4 on the tail lights. Now, feel free to blast away! Thanks for your time and thoughts, guys. For reference, here's the lucky (unlucky?) girl:

Basically, I'm not racing it, nor do I have a cam/FI setup with makes power above the stock setup. Why have a stall 1000RPM higher than the stock torque curve? Makes sense to me. I'm sure you "feel" a difference, but I doubt we'd see real-world results on the street- none worth the $800-1200 to have one installed (except, maybe, the tires wearing a little faster ;) ). If I cam it this summer or fall, then I'd consider it, as most of the cams I'd look at make power at 2200+. Once I see what happens after the dyno this Thursday, I may have them install the Vette servos, but that's a wait-and-see mod. Then again, I'm dumping serious coin into billet grilles and HID front/LED rear lights, which should net me at least 15 horses ... Best news: Outlaw finally shipped the CAI that was on backorder!

I'll have to check out your truck one of these days- is there a local SS/VMax club?

I had a job yard over by Ganesha High off Fairplex/10 for our Route 57 project 2003-2005 (spooky at night)... I learned to go outside of Pomona for food... ;) I might still install the servos, but I'll feel it out some after the dyno run this week.

Damn skippy, not bad at all! That might be my Christmas, we'll see. Who did your head work? Just a P&P job or did you 5 angle the valves too?

Had mine done this morning- $350 + $50 for Dex-6, done in 2 hours. Awesome guys. Check out my post on it dated today.

Called Kendall at The Toy Shop transmissions in Pomona, CA this morning just to BS some, get his thoughts on my transmission and motor work and pick his brain some in general. Great guy to talk to, very knowledgable. He asked, "Can you come in today? I have an open lift." Well, what can I say? So, off to Pomona I went. After talking with him some more at the shop, he talks me down off the TBTC ledge, says its not needed. Servos we may come back to, but, for now, we left them stock; he did think the trans could use a shift kit and some other mods. I give the green light, then off he goes to work. About 15 minutes in, he asks me how the truck has been shifting 1-2... Pretty firm, but it's a new truck, right?... Wrong. GM "forgot" the 2nd gear accum spring. Wonderful. Good thing I have 900 miles on her total, or this might have been a bad thing soon... Another great, ahem, excuse (justification?) for you married guys: "See? His BRAND NEW trans had a problem, and the only way he found it was to pre-empt the problem with a shift kit!" So, another hour later and the work's done. After talking to a GM tech, he decided to play it safe and stay with Dex-6, so for another $50 I was graced by (more) GM Dex-6 wonderfulness. Anyway, the post-kit trans shifts without lag all though 4 now, and none too harsh- just right for a daily driver. Following He and Mike's advice, I will not be doing anything else (maybe servos if I want it somewhat tighter) unless I drop a cam in, at which point I'll consider the TBTC and a larger cooler. These guys were top-flight, considerate, honest and reasonably priced- they billed me $350 for the work and $50 for the GM liquid gold (6 quarts). If anyone needs good GM trans work in Southern California, look no further than the Toy Shop in Pomona. I know this probably should be in the Vendor section, but I figured you would all like to see what kind of fun things are coming from GM new...

How did that Comp 224 do for you?

Sorry for the confusion- I just went out and saw that the pulley and balancer were combined on these new motors... geeze, I feel outdated. I'm used to bolting up the pulley to the balancer. Hence, the confusion. Good luck!

Magnaflow makes hi-flow cats. Doug Thorley used to make a lot of tri-y stuff... to me, they were just average PITA headers to install. With so much that's positive written about the Dynatech's, how do you go wrong there? Full setup with cats for $1500 coated? 6 of one, half dozen of the other. By the time you get the appurt parts, either way you'll be right there cost-wise. Which do you like better?

Ouch... Well, they swore UP AND DOWN that they actuall "came in" and would be shipping all orders Mon-Wed this week. We'll see. I say no later than Thursday for me... San Berdoo to Irvine is a quick trip...

I guess I don't understand why you need a "stock size" balancer... we used to run lots of spray and FI setups on aftermarket Fluids, etc. just fine. That being said, maybe there's something I am missing here.

From what I've seen, at least in-line with reality. They have quite a positive aire about them, and a hell of a following here.

Looks like Monday I'll be calling The Toy Shop to schedule a 'general beefing' of the trans (shift kit, servos, etc.) and to swap the TC. Hopefully I can get it done and the Outlaw CAI installed next week so, come Saturday, VanGordon & Brown (Scott Brown) can custom tune on his dyno next weekend. Geeze, what will I have to look forward to come Christmas?

I'm sure the Outlaw I ordered will be great... when it gets here. They've been backordered for weeks on filter elements. Good news, Outlaw said they'd start shipping again next week.