TheGeorgiaKid
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Posts posted by TheGeorgiaKid
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I had wondered the same thing, but I was worried about leaning the engine out with them open. But then I thought the computer would/could compensate between the cutouts being open or closed.
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BUMP. Offers??
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I have my stock chrome 20" SS wheels with center caps & lugnuts I'm wanting to sell. No tires just wheels asking $1000. All are really nice, but one has a small curb rash spot about 1" on the lip really not noticeable not even deep. Located in north Georgia, delivery available to Atlanta area or will ship. Email [email protected] for pics.
Also have a brushed finish bolt-over style billet grill for a '03 to '05 SS or anything with that grill. Just the grill, no bumper grills. Came out of my '03 Chevy 1500HD. $100. obo.
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BUMP
Anyone else having this problem with their sunroof tracks cracking??
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I see in your signature that you have 44lb. injectors?? With the stock cam? Did you see any gains by doing that?
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This question is reguarding my '03 Chevy 1500HD that has OnStar, but it no longer works because it's the old analog system. My '06 SS has it too, but it's the digital system. It can be converted to digital from analog, but it costs like $200.+ to have the dealer do it. I have been told there is a single part that makes the converision. Has anyone done this them selfs by buying the part from their dealer? Didn't know if you guys with '03 & '04 SS's have run into this. I would really appreciate some help on this. Thanks.
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BUMP
Anyone not have an opinion?? My real question about the GMPP ASA & LS Hot Cam is about rocker arm ratio. Could you go to 1.8:1 ratio arms over the 1.7:1 stock arms. The GMPP ASA & LS Hot Cam specs are for use with the 1.7:1 arms, just didn't know if 1.8:1 arms could be used. Thanks.
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I have a 03-05 billet grill to sell. It's a brushed finish, but it could be polished. It's a bolt-over type. It's just the grill, don't have the bumper grills. I had it on a '03 1500HD. Make Offer.
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Sorry bout all the posts. Computer had a brain fart!!
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some will say a cap is dumb, others will say get one. I say a cap will help but i would start with the charging lead and ground leads first. as stated above, have your alternatory tested, also get a new battery no matter how old it is, if it was brought down once to being dead then it will do it again. some will say Optima batterie kick ass, some will vote for others, I have Optimas in my truck and they are decent and for your system they will be fine. anything bigger and i would go a different route for batteries. as for my alternator, its 300amp. i dont have the model number handy but check powermastermotorsports.com and you will for sure find one to suite your needs. once you check alternator, swap to a better battery and replace charging leads, then add that cap. but for now, save your cap money and buy a battery.
I already put a new Optima in it. The auto parts store made it good, cause it was only 6 months old. Haven't checked the alternator yet, but I will. Have there been problems with them going bad? There have been times when I smell (from in the cab) the alternator getting hot, I check under the hood & smell right at the alt & that's what it is, but after a few minutes of running it goes away. The volt gauge is showing a constant 14 volts, but when I crank it up (& I listen to alot of bass) it will drop to about 11 to 12 volts & when I turn the stereo down or off it jumps right back to 14 volts. I guess any system will do that.
I had a small system in my '57 Chevy pickup street rod for a while & it had a amp gauge, had a 100 amp alt on it, but when I cranked it up the needle on the gauge bounced with the beat of the bass.
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some will say a cap is dumb, others will say get one. I say a cap will help but i would start with the charging lead and ground leads first. as stated above, have your alternatory tested, also get a new battery no matter how old it is, if it was brought down once to being dead then it will do it again. some will say Optima batterie kick ass, some will vote for others, I have Optimas in my truck and they are decent and for your system they will be fine. anything bigger and i would go a different route for batteries. as for my alternator, its 300amp. i dont have the model number handy but check powermastermotorsports.com and you will for sure find one to suite your needs. once you check alternator, swap to a better battery and replace charging leads, then add that cap. but for now, save your cap money and buy a battery.
I already put a new Optima in it. The auto parts store made it good, cause it was only 6 months old. Haven't checked the alternator yet, but I will. Have there been problems with them going bad? There have been times when I smell (from in the cab) the alternator getting hot, I check under the hood & smell right at the alt & that's what it is, but after a few minutes of running it goes away. The volt gauge is showing a constant 14 volts, but when I crank it up (& I listen to alot of bass) it will drop to about 11 to 12 volts & when I turn the stereo down or off it jumps right back to 14 volts. I guess any system will do that.
I had a small system in my '57 Chevy pickup street rod for a while & it had a amp gauge, had a 100 amp alt on it, but when I cranked it up the needle on the gauge bounced with the beat of the bass.
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some will say a cap is dumb, others will say get one. I say a cap will help but i would start with the charging lead and ground leads first. as stated above, have your alternatory tested, also get a new battery no matter how old it is, if it was brought down once to being dead then it will do it again. some will say Optima batterie kick ass, some will vote for others, I have Optimas in my truck and they are decent and for your system they will be fine. anything bigger and i would go a different route for batteries. as for my alternator, its 300amp. i dont have the model number handy but check powermastermotorsports.com and you will for sure find one to suite your needs. once you check alternator, swap to a better battery and replace charging leads, then add that cap. but for now, save your cap money and buy a battery.
I already put a new Optima in it. The auto parts store made it good, cause it was only 6 months old. Haven't checked the alternator yet, but I will. Have there been problems with them going bad? There have been times when I smell (from in the cab) the alternator getting hot, I check under the hood & smell right at the alt & that's what it is, but after a few minutes of running it goes away. The volt gauge is showing a constant 14 volts, but when I crank it up (& I listen to alot of bass) it will drop to about 11 to 12 volts & when I turn the stereo down or off it jumps right back to 14 volts. I guess any system will do that.
I had a small system in my '57 Chevy pickup street rod for a while & it had a amp gauge, had a 100 amp alt on it, but when I cranked it up the needle on the gauge bounced with the beat of the bass.
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some will say a cap is dumb, others will say get one. I say a cap will help but i would start with the charging lead and ground leads first. as stated above, have your alternatory tested, also get a new battery no matter how old it is, if it was brought down once to being dead then it will do it again. some will say Optima batterie kick ass, some will vote for others, I have Optimas in my truck and they are decent and for your system they will be fine. anything bigger and i would go a different route for batteries. as for my alternator, its 300amp. i dont have the model number handy but check powermastermotorsports.com and you will for sure find one to suite your needs. once you check alternator, swap to a better battery and replace charging leads, then add that cap. but for now, save your cap money and buy a battery.
I already put a new Optima in it. The auto parts store made it good, cause it was only 6 months old. Haven't checked the alternator yet, but I will. Have there been problems with them going bad? There have been times when I smell (from in the cab) the alternator getting hot, I check under the hood & smell right at the alt & that's what it is, but after a few minutes of running it goes away. The volt gauge is showing a constant 14 volts, but when I crank it up (& I listen to alot of bass) it will drop to about 11 to 12 volts & when I turn the stereo down or off it jumps right back to 14 volts. I guess any system will do that.
I had a small system in my '57 Chevy pickup street rod for a while & it had a amp gauge, had a 100 amp alt on it, but when I cranked it up the needle on the gauge bounced with the beat of the bass.
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I've been looking into adding a rear sway bar & was wondering which one to get. ADDCO or a Belltech? I've looked at the installation instructions for both & it looks to me that the Belltech would be better because the endlinks are forward of the axle. The ADDCO endlinks are to the rear, I've seen some pics of that the spare tire get's a little in the way. Anyways, I was wondering which one you guys thought was better. I'm leaning toward the Belltech cause it looks easier to install. It also installs like the rear Hotchkis bar. Thanks.
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charging lead is 6 gauge at best. i would run 0 gauge. but thats just me. run at least the same size as you are running to your amp. also make sure you upgrade your grounds from the alternator to the frame rails and from alternator to the battery. If you are feeling froggy also upgrade your ground from frame to engine block. all with the same gauge wire you usse as charging leads.
as i said, over build it. you wont have to touch it again.
I totally agree with over building it. Do you think I need to go that far with no more stereo stuff than I'm running? The amp power cable is 4 gauge. Should I try puting a cap on the amp power cable first?
Do you have the part number for the Powermaster alternator you are using? What amp is it?
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not cheep but i will say i have tried the Napa and i have tried the Ohio Generators. but i just put a PowerMaster on mine and its bad A$$!!
not cheep, but i can regulate the voltage and have it set at 14.9volts. perfect for high current audio systems, as well as hi volume fuel pumps to push at their peak performance. I will say i push my truck to the extremes in just about every aspect. i dont beat it, but i overbuild things. i figure why build, or buy it twice?
check their website. if you decide to go this route i can help you install it properly, and also remember dont skimp on charging wire.
Do I need to put a bigger gauge charging wire on? Like a 4 gauge? doesn't it have about a 8 gauge now?
See my other post above to see what I'm pushing.
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What are you pushing that you need an alternator that big? Your truck already has a 145 amp alternator....
I didn't know it already had a 145 amp. I'm glad I know now. Thanks.
The only big thing I'm running is a JL 500/1v2 amp & two JL 12" W3's. My battery was dead the other day & it had only been sitting a couple of days since I had last driven it. Red top optima less than 6 months old. I didn't leave anything on. I haven't put a capasitor on the amp yet but I'm going to. It really sucks it down when you crank it up. All the lights nearly go out & you can smell the alternator getting hot trying to keep up charging it. I thought a bigger alternator & a cap on the amp would fix that.
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Where can I get a bigger amp alternator? Like a 150 amp or bigger. Is there a aftermarket company making them or do I have to have my stock alternator built into a bigger amp? Thanks.
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I have asked this before, but has anyone used the GMPP ASA Cam in their SS? I remember one guy was going to but never heard how it went. The main question I have is. I had the thought of using GM 1.8:1 ratio rocker arms to get more lift at the valve since the ASA is .525 lift at the valve with the stock 1.7:1 ratio rocker arms. I've seen alot of guys running cams with close to .600 lift at the valve. How are you doing it? Is there enough piston to valve clearance? Also what about the same thoughts on the GMPP LS Hot Cam?
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Bump!
I do believe they are now making a new Pac-adapter that will display the track name on the factory deck. Catch is it is twice the money of the one I did the write up on.
These adapters will charge ipods and the I-touch but DOES NOT charge the i-phone.
Yes, you are right. PAC has the uPAC-GMC2. I got mine for around $150. on eBay, a deal for how good it works. Plug in & go, no wire splicing for the wire to charge & ground like with the Peripheral kit. I have a Itouch, but I had a friend plug his Iphone into it & it worked & charged it. I love it, displays all the music text & you can control it from the radio or Ipod (two different modes). Works with all Ipods. Also has a extra cord to beable to use a Zune or other mp3 players, but you can't control them from the radio like a Ipod & it won't charge it (it's a headphone type plug), you can also plug it into your laptop & watch movies, I've already done it. There are two plug-ins on the uPAC's control box, one for the Ipod cord & one for the other, so you can use one or the other, but one needs to be unpluged before using the other. Just thought I'd pass along my experience with it.
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Seems like I remember something about this awhile back, but couldn't find anything. Is anyone had or having problems with the tracks on the sunroof cracking? Can just the tracks be ordered & not have to replace the whole assembly? If so what is the part number of the tracks? I also thought about taking them off & taking them to a machine shop with a CNC machine & having some made out of billet aluminum. Anyone thought about or doing that? Thanks.
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PM Sent
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Yeah if I were you I would do an upgraded rear setup. I have 2500HD suburan calipers on mine. The rears do most of the stoping and wear out faster. Thats why in 05 the switched back the tried and true disk drum..
Did your '03 have single piston calipers originally?? Did you have to change the mounting brackets or did the 2500HD calipers bolt right on? The '03 1500HD we have as 60000 miles on it on the original rear pads & there is still plenty of pad left. That's sayin something I think.
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the rears were single piston... all you need to do is buy the backing plates/e brake assembly off someone and get some powerslots or used baers. once you have the backing plates, any setup fits.
btw, the drums on your truck work much better as far as stopping power goes. but it sounds like you know that, you want the look lol.
I agree that the drum brakes are very good. To me a SS is like the Corvette of trucks & vettes have 4 wheel disk brakes, so I think the vette of trucks should too. Would I have to change the e brake cables too, are they different length & the hard brake lines are different, what about the proportioning valve is it different?
My parents have a '03 1500HD with 4 wheel disk brakes with dual piston calipers front & rear. I almost think the brakes are just as good or a little better than my SS.
Forsale: Chrome 20" Ss Wheels & Billet Grill
in For Sale/ Wanted
Posted
Were they chrome for $600. ??? I'm just going by what I have seen them on eBay & craigslist for. The curb rash really isn't that bad, I don't think it's really worth fixing no worse than it is. I'm going to get some pics posted.