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Erwin8r

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Posts posted by Erwin8r

  1. rolling circumfrence of the tires is critical and will over a short period of time start screwing with your transfercase. and that my friend is an expensive fix. as for the front diff not as critical but deff not god for it. i have repaired alot of awd + 4wd noises buy selling the customer 4 new tires

     

    Thanks guys. I did it the hard way--I had the truck up on stands last night, yanked the wheels, and had a new set of Pirelli Scorpion STR's mounted first thing this morning...

     

    I appreciate the input--what a bone-headed move!!!

     

    Now the next order of business is re-doing my exhaust so that I can keep my spare where it belongs...

  2. I have always been told it is one of the WORST things you can do to your vehicle. It is sitting there creating power and has no where to apply it. No moving air to cool so your fans are always running, etc. Your engine life will be drastically shortened but that may not be a problem if you are not going to keep it forever. Just my $.02

     

    I've heard the same thing too, but with respect to it overheating and prematurely killing the oil... If the service intervals are maintained, I too think it should be fine.

     

    With respect to the "power not going anywhere," it is best to remember that our engines are a lot like big air pumps, and they are always moving the air in and out, so there is a lot of energy being exchanged even if the transmission is seeing none of it...

  3. I had to do a relearn after 1500 miles on one of my tunes. So just be patient and enjoy the new found power.

     

    CD

     

    Okay... the plot thickens. So I was just a bit worried (though no lights came on...), and called Jesse at Wait4me. He instucted me to do the re-learn anyway (something about it relying on his figures temporarily, and it being better off doing a re-learn on its own). I took it to a local indy shop that re-sets lights, etc. They plugged in a diagnostic tool, took about 5 or so minutes, then told me it was "done" and charged me $20. I didn't see them rev the truck up or anything, although they did start it and let it idle while they fiddled with the tool. Does this sound right? Fook me--I dislike feeling like a noob, and I'm thinking I should just send Wait4me the $200 for their diagnostic tool (that can accomplish these re-learnes, etc.). IN any event, I'll wait a couple weeks and see if things remain kosher. So far so good... :cheers:

  4. you better make sure you have it done correctly.......bc you wont be able to detect misfires etc.

     

    but yea i got a w4me tune and u cant beat it for 160 bucks delivered to ur door

     

     

    Well, it would be difficult to get wrong--I mean, I made sure the green conneector went back into green, blue into blue, disconnected the negative terminal, etc... I even made sure the orange "gaskets" were in place properly. It acted like it should at first (rough running, very low idle, etc.), then smoothed out over the "learning" drive. Did you have to do a crank relearn on yours?

  5. I'm selling my PCM4Less tuned PCM. It is set up for Long Tube headers, CAI, Shift-kit equipped transmission, and 93 octane gas. My truck also has 4 02 sensors, so yours should have 4, or 2 02 with 2 emulators. This is an aggressively-tuned PCM and I would not recommend it for anyone who lives in an area without 93 octane gas...

     

    $110, shipped.

     

    Please PM or reply here. Thanks!

  6. all you need is a simple scan tool.....i work at a International dealership and i used our Tech-II tool.....only took aobut 3 minutes.......hook it up and setup the tech-II and wait for ur engine to warm up and then rev ur engine up to 5k or sumthin and then its done......very easy just gotta find the right tool.....call around to some shops and ask if they have a tech-II device.......its a pretty commin tool for pulling engine codes etc.

    UPDATE: I bolted on the PCM last night, and guess what? No Crank Position Relearn necessary!!! I followed Mr. P's instructions to a t (removed the negative battery terminal, etc...), and then went to start the key relearn--that wasn't necessary either. THe truck strated right up, but ran very, very rough and would not idle... I coaxed it out of the garage, onto the street, then went for a nice 15-mile loop... things started to clear up right away--and what an improvement!!! I had a PCM4Less Tune in the old PCM, and it was just too aggressive for the truck. It was set-up for 93-cotane fuel, which of course, we don't have in California (at least not anywhere close to Los Angeles). IT used to ping and detonate quite a bit on the gas, and that is completely gone now. No I just get smooth, forceful acceleration and firm, but not ridiculous, shifts.

     

    COuld it be that programmers can now eliminate the need for the crank & key relearn? Wait4me asked for my VIN--maybe there's a way to program it in the PCM now?

     

    The Wait4Me was a good buy for me...

  7. key relearn is usually a procedure you have to do one time for your truck to learn a new PCm sorta speak. You try to start it and leave the key in the on position for like 30 sec. and repeat 3 times and on 4th try your truck should fire up.

     

    Okay, I found this in the archives:

     

     

    "ATTENTION: Your vehicle may not start unless this procedure is performed.

     

    GM introduced an anti-theft system in 1996 and newer vehicles.

     

    In order for your vehicle to start, you must perform the passkey relearn procedure.

     

    If your vehicle’s battery is low, it is recommended a battery charger be hooked up at this time.

     

    This Procedure will take approximately 20-30 minutes.

     

     

     

    After your PCM is installed, please perform the following.

     

    You may want to be outside your vehicle so shut the door, roll down the window.

     

     

     

    PROCEDURE:

     

     

     

    Insert key, attempt to start the vehicle and leave the key in the ON position.

    In some vehicles, the Battery and Security light will blink for several seconds, and then shut off. Then the Security light will then remain ON. Leave the ignition ON until the Security light goes OFF. This will take more than 5 mins.

     

    When the Security light goes OFF, turn the ignition to the OFF position.

    Leave ignition OFF for 20 Seconds.

     

    Attempt to start the vehicle again and leave the key in the ON position.

    In some vehicles, the Battery and Security light will blink for several seconds, and then shut off. Then the Security light will then remain ON. Leave the ignition ON until the Security light goes OFF. This will take more than 5 mins.

     

    Turn the ignition to the OFF position for 20 Seconds.

    Attempt to start the vehicle again and leave the key in the ON position.

    In some vehicles, the Battery and Security light will blink for several seconds, and then shut off. Then the Security light will then remain ON. Leave the ignition ON until the Security light goes OFF. This will take more than 5 mins.

     

    Once this entire procedure has been completed (three times) your vehicle will start on the fourth attempt.

     

     

    Note: Some vehicles perform the relearn in a different sequence. You may notice your security light, battery light and abs light will alternate. Once the security light is left out of the sequence that is considered one step. Repeat the procedure two more times and on the fourth time your vehicle will start.

     

     

     

     

     

    FAQs:

     

    - The procedure was just completed now my car is making a clicking noise when I attempt to start it.

     

    Your battery may have become too weak to crank the engine over.

     

    - I performed the procedure and my vehicle still doesn’t start

     

    Please repeat the procedure again.

     

    210-626-0278 "

  8. ...So how do I accomplish this "Crank Position Re-Learn" trick without going to the Stealer? Will normal Indy shops have the capability? TIA!!

     

    Background: I had a PCM4Less -tuned PCm in my truck that was a bit too aggressive (pinging, detonation, and very abrupt). I tried contacting Zippy for a re-tune or replacement, but he's probably too busy at the moment. IN any event, I found Wait4me and they shipped one to me for a reasonable amount... I'll report back on the feel/improvments, etc...

  9. Yeah that price is out the door. Should I hold out or.....?

     

    http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_...superSpotlight=

     

    IMHO, if it's the truck you want, in the color you want, and in the condition you want it in, the price is relative. It seems reasonable (not overlyu expensive nor cheap), and, probably the best part, it's there. "Waiting for the right deal" might not have you driving an SS for a while, and where's the fun in that?

     

    Having said that, you should still offer him less, especially if you're bringing a check or your own financing... If not, and you can live with the 25K, just do it.

     

    I bought my truck because I loved the way it looked and felt--it had all the right mods, it turns out. I suppose I could have bought one a bit cheaper if I waited, but my time is precious to me, and life is short! :cheers:

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