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Looks Good!

Ohh, no Mr.P, I jus brought them the block. I did all the assymbly, they bored 7 holes and sleeved 1 for $400, doallers. Yeh... Kinda hard but, I Called there competitor and they said they step sleeve every block they sleeve. they said That my shop should have done this! it insures the sleeve could not go up cause the heads there and it can not go down cause they leave a (step) wich means they stop there bore right before the bottom of the cylinder so the sleve can sit on that(step in the block) then they deck the top to remove the reaming sleeve on the head side. Thank's Mr.P, Am I on the right track?? Take the Deal? I know all this work I am doing now is cause this sleeve failure? P&S I told them about paying for there mistake like u said, I gave them the analogy "If I t_bone them at an intersection I would be stuck with there complete repair bill!" Thank's Danny

Mine is level, I used beltech part#6400 drop shackle and lowered the torsion bars a smidge. sit level though!

Welcome........

Hey, thank's, They will not do anything with the removal. they are jus a machine shop. they will re-assymble the long block, cause they do build engines. (but wont touch engine's with power adders.) Thank You though! ~Danny

UPDATE: feeew! Jus had an intense conversation with the machine shop. I stayed mosly calm but it did get a little heated on both ends. This Is the very best I could get out of them: They will refund my original bill, bout $400, resleeve it using a step sleeve design, and assymble my Long block with my supplied head gaskets and piston and ring I allready bought. (and put a 6month/6kmi warrenty on the Long Block) I think this is there absolute best without going to court. They again put everything on the supercharger as always and they didn't want to put themselve into a further position of liability. Took alot for me to get that much! Havn't fully accpeted it yet, but thats whats on the table? What do you guys think? ?? Thank's Danny

Thank's, BTW the cylinder head has some pitting head and on the intake valve. They are LS6 CNC proted heads, (yes MR.P they do say "243" on them).per a previouse conversation. Doesn't seem real bad IMO? Maybe ring chunks been hitting it? should I push the Issue on the haed? Should I maybe try to get some Labor out of them? You all have been really helpful here. Let me Know! Thanks, Danny

Parts of sleeve laying in the pan, and another pic of the slid down sleeve from the top.

UPDATE: I finally got back, and pulled my engine apart in the frame. The problem found was The #7 Cylinder sleeve came loose! If You look close, on the top, you can see where the sleeve slid down, and on the bottom you can see where the rod broke the bottom of the sleeve out. I have a 1000mi on this set up, I am not a machinest, but I dont really see how this is not the machine shops fault? I breifly talked to them and I was very polite, and they said that they would redo the block and maybe even throw in a gasket set. But I have to pull the engine and comlpetely disaasymble it and bring it to them, not to mention it wiped out my 110$ JE piston and $40 ring set. I dont really have ability to pull the engine myself right now. my garage barely fits the truck and it -20 degrees outside! What should I DO or say? Opinions would help please. Thank's Danny

Document ID# 1551943 Condition Some customers may comment that the ABS light, Service Brake System message comes on intermittently during initial start-up. The condition does not cause a DTC to be stored permanently. Cause engines, though it can occur on vehicles with gasoline engines as well. The cause may be a timing issue related to the cranking/starting of the vehicles. It appears that the condition is more likely to occur on vehicles with diesel <A href="http://service.gm.com/servlets/BlobShtml?ShtmlFile=1551943&psdid=437&evc=sm#ss3-1551943"> <H3>Correction Reprogram the EBCM with TIS software version 7.5, released July 26,2004 or newer. Refer to Service Programming System (SPS) (SI Document ID #1451930). Turbocoop is right, I have done many of these, this is the current fix, I supplied the doc id from gm at the top. ~Danny </H3>

Thank's for the link! I love his sketch! Clearly I had no Idea how a turbo worked, maybe I can take this sketch to the shop tomorow and starighten some of my fellow mechanics out! Thank's Dan

How much warrenty left on truck? Jus Base? Thank's Dan

Welcome! ditch the flares and find some used SS Clading! They make the truck. LOL. No, Really sounds Like it will look good! ~Dan

the dealer should have no problem getting you those numbers, the Idler arm is REAL easy, (pitman arm not so much) tools you will need: pitman arm puller (low profile preferbally) Matco has a nice one. Pickle fork to separate the joint from the steering bar. If your good, you can undo the 3, 21mm bolts( I think all of them are 21mm, or maybe jus 2500 trucks) that attach gearbox to frame, and angle the gear box so you can get your puller on. on the idler, remove the 21mm nut at steering bar, detach joint at steering bar w/pickle fork. remove the 3 21mm that attach the idler to frame and its off. ohh and you need to remove the plastic splash sheild. Like to help a fellow Alaskan! Dan

Adam, I think you know where I stand, LOL. I wouldn't run it for a minute longer honestly. I have built many engine's, and this one was no different. So if mine went I dont see why your's wouldn't? the set up is real close. I think It might not be a bad Idea to put a post in forced induction to see what people say you should do. Maybe some FI guys with better knowledge then u and I will post up? I would be curiouse. ~Dan

My truck is paid for, so now the misses want one, We almost got a Charger, but I showed her the pics online, and the transformers movie helped. So were saving up for a 09'. (plus I have HPTuners! )

COOL truck! I went form a 2000 S10 2.2L, to a 2003 Silverado SS. I still have my S10 and drive it more then the SS. Welcome ~Dan

I have a vortech on my 03, plugs are gaped @ .040, i run close to 10lbs. (Delco all the way) Not sure what scanner your using? Tech 2 would be Ideal. With GM you always diag the code with lowest number first, ie P0101. (potentailly could be setting other codes) I havn't seen a spec in hertz for a maf, but if your scanner is able to watch grams per second: The MAF display should increase from 42-50 g/s at idle to 420 g/s or more at the 2-3 shift during a wide-open throttle (WOT) acceleration. Clean it first, and verify. ~Dan

this may not apply with your charger, but.... On my Vortech blower I had somebody hold pressure on the belt tensioner, while I hit the wrench w/ a rubber mallet. Also for the pully removal from the shaft, I heated the pully up with a torch, and it slid off effortlessly. For best results, call the manufacture up and they will be more then happy to tell you how to change pully's. ~Danny

did you mark all your guages on a peice of paper before you begain replacemnet? if so i would keep trying to reset it to that. or u can can guess roughly how far out they are and pull them off and reset accordingly. Ive installed a couple set's of New Image Designer guage's on fords and chevy, seems they are always a hair off, nothin crazy.

Nice set up, I run a similer 408ci w/ vortech blower what's your compression ratio? What size pully? How much boost are you seeing? How many mile on your current set up? Thank's Dan

Welcome to the site! I know how ya feel! I really wanted BLACK, and ended up with RED. Still happy though. Now red is my prefered color, lol! weird??