slowfive0

Hello, Selling my truck and in process of de-modding it. I have a custom stainless steel exhaust that cost me a fortune to have built! Only a year or so old. System consists of: Pace setter Long tubes (1 3/4" mild steel-coated) True dual 3" stainless steel exhaust with x-pipe dumping at rear bumper System has (2) huge Magnaflow muffers and a total of (4) Vibrant resonators It sounds deep and throaty, but not over powering. If you wanted it louder, you could remove the resonators and replace with straight section of pipe. It should be noted that originally I had flowmasters and went 12.20. When I added the (6) mufflers--lol! It went 12.21 so it didn't hurt it much ;-) The whole system utilizes expensive v-bands throughout for easy service. Check out my photobucket (both pages) for pictures: http://s744.photobucket.com/user/slowfive0/library/Silverado%20SS?page=1 I'm not going to come close to recouping my investment, but if it helps out a fellow SS member and I can make some cash then it's worth it rather then just trading it in that way. I'm local to the Detroit area and will be moving this truck in the next month or two. If you're interested, maybe we can work something out----just PM me---thanks.

I'll have one (Triple Disc Circle D) that I will be sellling shortly. I'm going to be selling my truck and am putting the stock trans/converter back in before hand. You know what they cost new and this one is mint. Make me an offer. It stalls 2800. Thx

How much for: - dash bezel that pops in place around opening to cluster - both a-pillar trim pieces (without tweeters) - trim piece that snaps into upper front of center console that has little cubby and the cigarette lighters in it Let me know---thanks.

I would bet u have a spun number 2 cam bearing. My machinist sees them all of the time. This problem is found most often in 2004 and prior 6.0's. Mid year 2004 GM changed the cam bearing design. Id is still the same but od changed. This is good as ur machinist can machine the cam bore out for the new design cam bearing and salvage ur block (typically, a block is junk if u spin a cam bearing). Fwiiw, this happened to my truck at just over 100,000 miles and I'm still driving it at 176,000 miles!!! LMAO! Originally, I cut open the oil filter and it was loaded with bearing material! The subsequent filters had some material but not as much. I was going to drive it until it died and I'm still waiting. I guess the oil pump puts out enough volume that it is able to properly oil the rest of the engine even with one bearing being spun--pretty cool.

Doing this from phone but why not a used radix. I've been 12.20 @ 110 with 1.70 60 with my setup. Awesome bang for buck. This was with my converter flashing to 3100. In that configuration, best 60 was in high 1.6 range on good track. Just had converter tightened up and with it flashing 2500-2600 it still went 12.40 with 1.75 60 foot. Should definited go faster since my mph was only 107. Temps was around 50. It drives like stock and get same mileage if u drive it nice yet it is fast as hell when I want it - lol!!!! I like NA setups too but hard to pass up a combo like that IMO. I've seen these kits for sale quite cheap. Good luck

Yeah, no problem. I'm no expert, but I'll be glad to help where I can. Do you have software/tuner setup? Can you send me your tune? BTW, a couple of us may be going to Lapeer on Saturday. Anyone down for a track day then or sometime this month? Should be a blast! I was there Saturday and it was a lot of fun.

Be glad to help out.

Congrats Joe!!!! How many guys ended up showing? I was bummed I couldn't make it up---awesome air :-( I'm down for Lapeer and will be going the first nice COLD DAY!!! Love that AWD!!!!

Crap, looks like I won't be making it. Positive side, weather is showing good for Sunday as of now. Good luck guys and have fun.

Have faith everyone----it will be alright. Weather forecasts around here seem to be off most of the time. Wait until a day or two out. There is always Lapeer if the weather is bad on the 28th Beautiful thing for most of us on this board is we have AWD----so it can be bitter cold and we still hook---lol! Makes for great new PB's!

You probably are right. I know Lapeer and pretty sure Ubly require a helmet. I usually only take my mustang to Milan and I have to wear a helmet/gear when I race it. I would bring one if you have one just to be safe though.

Would love to buy this!!!! Need a motor before a blower though---lol! That would be cool---I'm "hoping" to be there waiting at 9----04 Blue Silverado SS We do need to decide where we are going to park so we can all be together. Maybe along the fence, up by the clocks? Problem is, as there is an event going on, parking will probably be limited or non existent there and it will be hard to say where we can all find a place to meet and be together. Thoughts anyone???? I guess it wouldn't be too hard to find a bunch of SS trucks---lol! Personally, I like to park over by the staging lanes on the grass. Being there allows quick access to the staging lanes (to watch or get in line) and that area is not always used by the serious racers. They tend to use the asphalt to accomodate their rigs, etc. Would be awesome for sure! You will need a helmet bare minimum. All of our vehilcles should have no problem meeting the tech standards. If you're running slicks, then you need a d/s loop. Anyone have a vehicle here faster then 12's?

Agreed! Just a thought, but if anyone is really interested in getting that new "personal best", it might make sense to be there at the crack of dawn (9ish) so as to allow some cool down time vs. getting there later. If I can make it, I'll probably be there waiting at 9. Should be a blast! Fingers crossed for good weather ;-)

Wow! Didn't realize we had this many members in the general Detroit area----Cool! Put me down as a big maybe. My boy has a playoff game that weekend. If it's Saturday, then I'll be there Sunday. Thanks for the invite and putting this on. Should be fun.

Some comparison pics (stock on left/modified on right). Looks like they basically machined off the end of the drum and installed a machined backing plate. Doing this with a high strength piece of material that wouldn't flex allowed them to keep the overall dimension (length) of the housing intact but allows more clutches (due to thinness of backing plate) to be placed in drum then could otherwise be used due to the snap ring design (OEM had to have some meat left at the end of the housing to retain the snap ring and not blow out..........So I'm "Assuming" they are moving up into the area of the former snap ring. That seems to make sense, but I'm very curious about the 3/4 clutch return springs......Hopefully, Vince or someone who has used these will chime in.....

I guess I'm not following you. I've cut and pasted the blurb from Sonnax's website about this part. You do have the option of using thinner steels if you want, but you don't have to (and I agree that it is a bad way to go as the steels can't manage the heat well and tend to warp). You can use regular thickness pieces, but get more clutches in because of the new way the 3/4 backing plate is attached and it being thinner. See the highlighted sections for reference. "The Sonnax Smart-Tech input housing kit 77733-06K addresses five weak areas of the GM 4L60, 4L60-E, 4L65-E, 4L70-E input housing: (1) flexing/bowing of the 3-4 backing plate, (2) limited 3-4 clutch torque capacity, (3) 3-4 snap-ring blow-out, (4) input housing breakage near the input shaft spline, and (5) input housing fatigue failure. Flexing/bowing of OE and other aftermarket backing plates is eliminated with Sonnax’s heavy duty bolt-on backing plate. This unique design ensures even clamping of the 3-4 clutches in higher horsepower, higher pressure applications. By eliminating the 3-4 snap ring and using a thinner yet stiffer apply plate, space is made available for additional frictions and steels. This makes it possible to simultaneously increase clutch torque capacity and eliminate the possibility of retaining ring blow-out. A steel reinforcement sleeve prevents breakage in the spline area. Housing fatigue failure resistance and housing life are significantly improved with a special treatment process that greatly reduces stress crack formation. Features & Benefits • Zero-flex, bolt-on 3-4 clutch backing plate eliminates uneven clamping pressure, resulting in increased clutch durability • Increased 3-4 clutch torque capacity will accept either: • Eight .067" frictions with seven .095" steels • Nine .062" frictions with eight .077" steels • Eliminates snap-ring blow-out"

I agree with u completely. That is what is so neat about the drum. It has a more robust 3/4 pressure plate that is bolted to the end of the housing instead of retained by a snap ring down in the housing. This physically allows more clutches/steels because the area the clutches reside in has been increased. All the new drum is doing is allowing more clutches (surface area; ie increased holding power)

Sonnax wouldn't quote me a price as I wasn't a distributor for them....... I can almost guarantee, it's a lot! LOL! I bet $350-$550. Maybe more! I would have done the 80 conversion the last time (of multiple repairs) my trans broke, but I couldn't afford to be down that long. It is my daily driver and I didn't want to risk getting in over my head with stupid problems. Hind sight, I should have bit the bullet and just did the conversion, because I have a cubic ass load of money in this trans now and I pray to god it lasts! LOL! I know the 3/4 clutch will go eventually and I expect it won't be more then 2-3 years at that. Hopefully, this drum is the real deal and I can have a trans that is semi-durable.

No problem. I posted this over at PT too. Take care. http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/drivetrain-suspension-127/maybe-there-hope-4l65e-holding-up-high-power-applications-after-all-507976/#post4994261

Anyone seen or use this product yet? Basically a revised input drum setup that allows more 3/4 clutches/steels and alleviates the snap ring blow out problem.............I have a call into their tech support now to obtain more info. Obviously, once you get the right parts inside these transmissions and can get it to live, the limiting factor seems to be the 3/4 clutch. There are some of these transmissions in 8 second cars, but they change the 3/4 clutches regularly. If this drum does what it appears it might....... http://www.sonnax.co...t/77733-06K.pdf

Here is my .02 or maybe .03 lol! The check engine light is only designed to come on for an emissions type failure. In other words, anything that can affect emissions (missfire, sensor like the tp or maf, etc). Depending on how severe the trans problem is, you may or may not get a CEL. As far as the trans debate----oh that's a good one and I pretty much echo everything "everyone" here has said. It really comes down to realistic goals and usage. I've know a guy right now that just got a vortech put on his fox mustang. Real low boost deal (1993 car with 302) I want to say 6-8 psi. He had a local guy tune it and I believe they ended up at 23 or 24 degrees of timing. Car made 425 at the wheels IIRC. This guy has tuned tons of vehicles for literally decades and is known for conservative (SAFE) tunes. The guy had him remove 4 or 5 degrees of timing and ended up with a smudge under 400 hp at the wheels. He is that conservative and is totally happy with the end result even though the car was safe before (hundreds of customers with similar/same combos running around with no problems). Ok, this is the type of guy that would have no problem with a properly built (for the intended levels/weight) 4L65-e. He drives fairly normal most of the time and gets on it every once in a while. Maybe a trip to the track every year or so. Take someone like me who starts out with a goal of high 12's (and then proceeds to work down to low 12's instead!) and now wants 11's if not faster.........Should have done the 4L80e and never looked back. I'm ok at my level and the way I drive 80% of the time, but where I want to go is going to push this trans too far imo. I don't think I will break hard parts, but I do think the 3/4 clutch (among other items) will become a maintenance item that I'm not willing to maintain....... I have too much money in my trans (billet output and input and wide sprag from RPM trans) plus all of the other mods known to man done by a reputable local shop. I wouldn't have just any shop attempt this type of build. Would probably order an FLT if I didn't know him already. I probably made 50-70 passes last fall/early spring this year and over 35,000 miles (daily driver) and it is doing just fine. We had the pan off recently and everything looked great! That being said, I don't beat the living hell out of it every day or it probably wouldn't last like it has/is. Also, tune can have a big impact on whether or not it lives. Just too much to go wrong when you're pushing it to its limits. It can be a done to a point quite well, but is it worth it..................Depends on that person---only they know. Good luck!

Any updates?

Very hard to drive normal---lol! Too much fun and that is why I bought this instead of the prius---just saying

Flowmasters are long gone. I now have Magnaflows.

If u read my original post, I wasn't complaining at all. I was actually happy that my truck is where it is with the fuel economy. It runs low 12's, has a moderate stall yet still gets the fuel economy it was rated at stock. I thought my tune was way off but I wasn't able to improve it so I was like wtf. now seeing the stock rated numbers I understand why. Sorry, if u found my post retarded. Average fuel economy and power is up in these trucks. That didn't happen by chance or magic. Technology my friend. I can't wait until we get direct injection.....it's already put in some vehicle lines NICE!!!!!