slowfive0

Every consider a mechanical pump. A lot of high power guys run them. I just got the Magnaflow Outlaw 1000 for my fuel injected setup----they supposedly have very little pressure fluctuation at idle and are a quality product.

Throttlebody for sale---ttt

87mm Truck throttlebody (4 bolt) still for sale. Make offer----thx.

Corsa sold!!!! Thanks.

replied to the pm. Thanks.

Not sure. My truck is a 2004 Silverado SS. There is only one number I believe for those trucks.

- 87mm throttlebody - $75 Corsa Sold---Thanks! Pics here: http://s744.photobuc...xx87/slowfive0/

See if you can find out anything on this Joe. I for one would be very interested as I'll be doing a rebuild soon. I know the regular 1/2 ton 4/4 t-cases have an available aftermarket cover that is aluminum instead of magnesium and those are cheaper and have some upgrades to correct known service issues. I'm not aware of a service unit for the NV149 though..... Would be sweet if they have one!!!

Reading between the lines here, but I would assume that the "bushing" failed as a result of the sloppy rear bearing hole in the housing. The bearing supports the shaft. The driveshaft slipyoke actually rides against that bushing. Mine had so much slop in the housing that the bushing failed and spun in its bore. When I took my driveshaft out, the bushing or what was left of it was on my slip yoke --- lol! The only thing that sucks for you is the parts for the rebuild, plus labor plus a new case half is NOT going to be cheap!!!! Probably around 1200-1500 --- just a guess....

I bet your t-case housing is worn causing the repeat leak. I had this exact thing happen to me and I replaced the seal. Still leaked so I replaced the bushing and seal again. Still leaked! Turns out the bearing pocket for the rear output shaft bearing was oblonged allowing the shaft to move around too much. No way the seal is going to be able to seal under those conditions. The proper fix is a new case half (400 from the dealer) although there are some other much less desirable backyard fixes out there...... Take the driveshaft out and move the shaft side to side and then up and down. See how much play you have. I'm betting you will find that you have excessive play side to side. Hopefully, you just have a worn bushing though. Good luck! P.S. This is very common in these t-cases because the front axle is always being driven and the shafts are basically trying to pull into each other via the chain. That load over time tends to wear the case half.

I bet you a slurpy that your chain in your t-case is jumping the sprockets. I have the exact same problem right now and have been through this before. It will get worse to the point where you can't even accelerate anymore. Good luck, time for a rebuild

Rebuild it or replace it with a new/reman unit. I was in the same situation and I bought a good used unit. I was fortunate to get a good deal, but it's giving me problems now and I'm going to have to rebuild it soon (I've only put about 20,000 miles on it). I should have rebuilt mine and been done with it. Now, I'm spending a ton more money then if I had just fixed it right the first time. One thing to have your guy look for (if he doesn't already know) is the back bearing pocket. Basically, the output shaft has a bearing on it that sits in a pocket in the rear case half. A common wear problem is the bearing wears the rear case bearing pocket hole into an oblong shape. With my driveshaft out I could literally take my output shaft and move it side to side a 1/4" or more! This usually results in a leak at the rear seal and often t-case failure (fluid gets low).

It looks like they basically added 2 gears between first and forth. I remember when ford added a gear to the explorer trans (4 spd to 5 spd). The change was just programming from what I recall....no hard parts or design changes. It appears that TCI did the same thing here with the 4L80e. It has a first gear and od ratio like the stock 4l80e. Might work well to keep a peaky engine combo in its powerband, but I'd rather have a six speed that as a lower first gear and od ratios to get the best of both worlds (better launch and lower rpm at hwy speeds). Anyone run one of these on here?

Congrats Chase!!!! A little advice coming from my experience.....be very careful about making the jump to a cage, more drag oriented setup, etc. I've been down that road with a cough cough....mustang and I regret it. My car used to run 11.0's at 129mph!!!!, get 23 mpg on the hwy, kicking stereo with subs, air conditioning, ps, etc. Looked stock too! I used to drive it to the track as well----I loved the attention that car got. You'd take out a big block race car and people would be tripping out in the pits when you came back around Long story short, I got booted off of 3 tracks (no cage), broke 3 stock blocks, so I decided to build a good engine and a bar in it. That evolved into a cage and more race oriented suspension, etc. At that time the sound deadner, heat, ac, sub box, etc came out. Car went 9.20 at 150 in that fashion with a hurt motor and burnt out slicks. Took it back apart and it's currently getting mini-tubs, 25.5 chassis, motor/mid plate, F2, etc. Goal is 7.80's in the 170's. I won't say that I regret having a fast street/strip (more race obviously---lol) car, but going from a car that I drove 5-10,000 miles a year to racing once or twice a month really sucks!!! I would find myself not driving it much because of the C-16 fuel that I ran ($75 for 5 gallons back in 07). I could tune it for 93 + meth or two separate tunes for race gas/pump gas, but that's a PIA (draining the fuel, etc). Where there's a will, there is a way, but looking back, I would have kept it more sane and kept my ac, ps, subs, sound deadner, etc. With the good engine (dart block, 4340 crank, rods, etc) I could easily have had the car running mid 9's with all of the shit I had on there (love the ac---lol). Car was really cool back then....... Basically, are you looking for the fastest SSS in the country or the fastest street SSS in the country? Anyone can take one of these trucks and put a chassis under it, big power and go fast. It is an SS or is it............ IMHO, I think your truck would be wayyyyyyy cooler like it is running 10 teens (or possibly high 9's) on drag radials with a lot of work tuning the chassis/power ramp up, driven to the track and basically like it rolled off the line years ago, then a 9.50 truck that has all of race car bells and whistles.... Of course there is the safety factor to consider to so maybe the cage ideal isn't so bad after all...... As far as street driving, I hated my car after adding the roll cage. It allowed a lot of vibrations and noises to transmit into the passenger compartment, etc. Good luck either way you go and GREAT JOB!!!! That truck is sick!

My vote is yes for the flows if you really dig the old school sound they have. My mufflers (70 series) have built in resonators which cuts down the drone. To be honest, they still suffer from a little drone around 1800rpm though. It doesn't bother me because I rarely drive in that range and it isn't terrible. I bet the 40 series or especially the 10 series would be awful though. Another thing, I do have long tubes and cats. If it didn't have cats, it would definitely be too loud. Possibly, two additional mufflers may work if you don't have cats, but I'm not sure. Lastly, mine were made in stainless so rusting out is not an issue. You have to make a special request to flowmaster for them in stainless though. They can make most of their popular models in stainless for the additional cost of the materials only. Good luck with your decision. http://www.silverado...exhaust-system/

That's awesome man!!!! I would love to polish on mine all of the time and never expose it to a drop of rain, but that isn't practical since it's my daily driver. Add to it, that I live in Michigan and it's gets exposed to some pretty harsh weather. That said, it kicks arse!!!! Just like you said, it goes like hell in everything and is very controllable. I try to keep mine clean and it's staying pretty clean overall. Not much rust on the frame or anything at this point (3 winters). Body looks great still. I've done a trans, t-case, brakes and tires.

Welcome!!!! I think this is one of the ultimate daily drivers for a place like Michigan (crappy roads, snow, light off road needs like when camping, etc). Not only does it do well with the awd capabilities, but it looks great! A tad lower (I believe) over a basic silverado and has a pleasant wheel package straight from the factory. They respond very well to modifications and I would highly recommend it! This is by far my favorite vehicle out of everything I've ever owned! Hands down!!! It has plenty of room, tows great (I've towed an enclosed 20' with all kinds of junk in it as well as cars, etc. Didn't even have my trailer brakes hooked up at the time (not saying the SS has the best brakes, but they were adequate). Probably my favorite thing about it as far as living in crap hole MI is the ground effects. I drive mine 365 days a year. Obviously, we use salt here which takes its toll. I haven't detected any rust yet and I do my best to keep it clean and protected, however if it does begin to rust, 95% of the areas that would rust are covered up by the cladding! I had a 2000 Silverado before and it was immaculate and a great truck but it started to get a little rust on the rocker and I had to sell it. I didn't feel like fixing it and I can't stand rust! With the SS cladding, you would never even see it unless you were under the truck! Gas mileage isn't too bad either considering awd and 5200lbs. Good luck!

Oh for god sakes --- LMAO! Ok, the driveshaft felt notchy when I rotated the joints (d/s out of car) so I pulled the caps and they were FUBAR! But they were brinelled.... I personally like "FU*@#$ UP". I think it gets the point across better, but I was trying to be professional as it was......Thanks for the +1!!!

I bet it probably is. Mine has done it since day one (i want to say I had 68,000 mile on it when I bought the truck). It didn't really change much until I beefed up the trans and went with a higher stall (it had a tb converter). When I cranked up the tune, it became an issue---lol! I launched it a couple of times in the last couple of days (2/3 3/4 throttle) and it is starting to sound like a ratchet --- lol! Definitely, a combination of chain stretch, some sprocket wear I'm sure and maybe even some wear in that bearing bore. I'm going to rebuild this one in the next few months or sooner if it makes me --- lol! Yes, Rich---he is excellent and willing to help out with whatever needs a guy has. I'm truly jealous! There have been a few occasions in last few days where I was really wanting to launch it with a nice 4 wheel spinning launch, but restrained myself in the interest of getting a few more months out of the t-case..... I bought this t-case used. I think it came out of an escalade (stock) and had 30+K miles on it. I just installed it with a new seal and gm fluid (Manual trans fluid). It's been in there probably 15k.....It has new joints in the back and the fronts were good. No binding or looseness. The rears weren't loose either, but were binding and when I took them apart they were dry and brinelling.

Good luck either way you choose.

You're kind of up the creek without a paddle so to speak. No money, but wanting to make the trans more rubust which usually equals more money unfortunately. You show to be in southern california. Give Kendall at Toy Shop Transmissions a call at 909-620-5849. They are in Pomona. I have 04Chase's old trans and it was behind his SSS going 11.1's! It is now in my truck (Radix) doing low 12's. They know what they are doing and will work with you. I was EXTREMELY impressed with Kendall and how they do business. I know they worked with 04Chase too to meet his needs. I'm sure you won't be disappointed. And the bonus or upside is they are somewhat local to you. Also, the tune is more important then many might believe. It isn't just increasing pressures on the shifts and what not. For example, the stock settings on the lockup tables with a bigger stall can cause the converter to come in and out and basically slip or overheat due to the extreme conditions. Not good and a person might not even realize it was happening if they weren't tuned into it. My truck with my Circle D triple disc converter (2800 stall) was coming in and out at very low speeds (around 40 iirc) due to the pwm tables in my pcm. Basically I could watch my tach fluctuate 200-300 rpms back and forth at certain low load cruise conditions. Some slight tweaks to those tables corrected that. Good luck!

Well, definitely a different noise then. Mine is dependent on the vehicle moving under heavy load. Yours may very well be the exhaust. Noises suck to isolate

Nice!!!

yeah, that was me small world. That Tahoe is a bad Biatch!!! Very impressive for the weight and looks cool as hell! That was a great race. He tree'd me a little (.337 to .523), and we were pretty even for the first part of the race, but I went around him 1/2 track or so. 12.34 at 109.76 on that pass. I would never expect that out of that vehicle if rolled on him on the street! That has to be one of the ultimate sleepers. Talk about having your cake and eating it to! Cool guy.

Since I've owned the truck,, if you brake torqued it extremely hard, it would make a sound like an exhaust pipe banging on the frame or a broken motor mount that is wrapping up. I always thought it was my exhaust banging on the crossmember. Since I don't drive my truck like that it wasn't much of a concern. Well this past year after fixing the trans and leaning on the tune, I realized that noise was actually the transfer case slipping under heavy load. Basically, it sounds like the chain is jumping the sprocket. Where I noticed it most was if I tried to stomp it from dead stop. Usually, it would rap a couple or knock a couple of times as it took off. Well it got worse to the point that I could hardly even take off (normal) without it skipping. I swapped in another transfer case (30,000 mile unit) and it was driving normal again. Well maybe 10-20,000 later, it's back and getting worse. I've been noticing it a lot since I picked up the power this past few months (went from 12.60's to 12.20's) and with the cooler air. Just stomping it in 1st will usually make it pop away a few times as it takes off. A dead dig is horrible. Same noise, so I have to assume it's that damn chain again. I'm just surprised I've never seen a post on here like this?????????? There are a lot of faster guys on here, some with even heavier rigs then me. What gives?!!! P.S. One good point that I learned while dealing with these problems was that the back half of the t-case bearing pocket tends to wear out on these vehicles prematurely. In other words, you get a leak (usually) because the pocket where the rear output bearing goes gets oblonged or egg shaped from the constant stress of driving the front shaft. Basically the chain driving the front shaft is trying to pull the two shafts together constantly (AWD units anyways) and this tends to wear out the case half as a result. That happened to me and it got so bad that I couldn't get the rear seal to quit leaking even after replacing the bushing and seal and yoke. Makes sense if you think about it. I pullled the seal out and you easily see and move the shaft around in the bore and see the play. Obviously, this play is going to bring the two shafts closer together which means the chain will get some slack in it. Add chain stretch and wear and I could see where I"m getting this skipping concern. Anyone else experience this? A friend of mine that does axles and trans for a living initially pointed this out to me and sure enough he was right. He says he sees it all of the time (even on stock vehicles) and usually at 70-80K miles on up. Case halves aren't cheap either!