jtmarine02

Yeah, I have the Stock one that doesn't include the fog switch and it is still does the same. Also, what trips me out is the fact that with a switch in the circuit it works barely, but without a switch no lights period... That wasn't the case before this incident. Thanks for your input man. I appreciate any of it, I've got tunnel vision from thinking on the matter for a while.

I went nearly the entire swap without having an issue and when it came to finally do the last thing (Fog Light siwtch) there was an issue. I recently installed OEM fog lights on my 04 SSS and the OEM switch. After installing the LED's in the switch, I realized 2 of the 3 LED's didnt work. I then brought out my Fluke multimeter to troubleshoot and verify that I soldered them on right by checking for proper voltage. Upon doing that, on the last LED, the black lead to my meter slipped and touched the red lead, shorting the circuit momentarily... what luck huh.?! Well after that my lights in my steering wheel, dash, digital AC controls, dimmer switch, and air bag switch stopped working. The buttons still work right but the lights do not. My door switches and seat heater LED's still work. I've tried the 2 Amp fuse under the steering wheel but that wasnt it. I've tried some fuses but all turned out fine. Then after nearly giving up for the night, I turn my truck on and the lights come on! Well they are dimm as all hell, even with the dimmer switch all the way up. If I remove the fog light switch they all stop working again...? Any ideas????

Why get rid of it?

Is it possible to get pics?

GL but you dont need it cause you got it!

I myself am a proud Marine veteran.

So a friend of mine in town replaced the Gauge cluster, headlight switch, and dimmer switch with blue LED's. When he put the cluster back together the RPM tach began to jump around once the truck was turned on... It then stopped on its own and stood still, when you rev or drive the tach will jump around and go up and down with the right RPM level except it jumps around and doesnt stand still on the correct reading. Has anyone experienced this or heard of it happening before? Oh and he replaced that tach motor, but they all did the same thing! They were all new motors and worked fine before and after. I havent tried anything besides turning the truck off a couple times and driving to see if it clears. My next step is to unplug the battery and even possibly the PCM....? Anyone? Oh and they were calibrated correctly upon reinstallation.

do you know how many it's going to take?

Hey guys, I'm replacing all my cluster, door, headlight switch, & domelight button to aftermarket blue LED's. I havent seen a write up for the Digital AC controls... Has anyone attemted to do it or has? Any info would be very helpful and appreciated.

Totally agree with Mr. P, you cant go wrong with a Wheatley tune and a Volant CAI. Im running both along with other mods and let me say those two are well worth every penny! Good luck on your decision!

Let me know when you find one and where you got it, I'm lloking to get some and was also unable to find a decent priced kit on Ebay...

Have you tried putting your stock bulbs back on? If so did they work? If not try taking out the proper headlamp fuse and putting back in. I had a similar problem only to find out that resetting the fuse reset it and then the HID's worked correctly. That's if the flipping of the connector doesn't work.

So I got my truck back from the dealer and the paperwork states: " Found leak around transfer case adapter gasket, checked bolts all tight. Gasket looks ok from outside of it. Need to remove transfer case and check adapter to make sure it is not warped or cracked." The service rep. told me that they had already removed the transfercase and that they were 100% sure the adapter plate was f*[email protected], they didnt even do that! I bet the mechanic told the rep. "Might be warped or cracked" then the Service rep turned around and used that to get some cash out of me!!! A-hole. Good thing I asked on here for input, which backed up my gut feeling!!! I'm gonna spray the bajesus out of my trans and transfercase with brake cleaner to find the leak . Oh and one other thing that the dealer "Found" was that my Rear Pinioon seal was leaking.... I wonder if thats legit. You would think that dealerships would want to be truthful, with the amount of competition they have when it comes to maintenance...?

Man, thanks for the great input. I'm gonna get a second opinion but before I do I'm going to clean it up underneath and find the source of the leak. I had a gut feeling to get a second opinion, so I'm definitely gonna do that. The dealer was the last to mess with it when they replaced my transmission about 5000 miles ago, couple months back. I'm wondering if they didn't f@#% something up afterwards...?

Dealer came back and said it's currently further troubleshooting the problem but it might be either of the following: Busted gasket or broken/warped connector plate (from transmission to transfer case). If the connector plate is bad it's gonna run between 700-800 bucks... Has anyone had this happen to their truck before?

My tranny has 5000 miles so it should be under warranty, but my transfer isn't.... Do you recommend my switching back to the stock PCM before taking it in to the dealer?

I also have one in great working and looking condition. Let me know if you still need one.

I'm running Pacesetter headers down to a 3 inch Y pipe then to a Borla XR-1 muffler down to my stock tip. and I love it. Sounds like a race car when I gun it! Think more like a moded corvette.

Thanks man, I got them from my bud here in town who has a 03 black SSS, who originally bought them off this forum as part of the group buy a few months back. I bought them off of him still in the unopened box for 500.00. If you look around here, you'll find that there is a few members who can get you a set of stock used E-fans for a real good price. Dont hesitate to upgrade your truck if it didnt come with these! Just be aware that youll have to get your PCM tuned for them.

So my friend saw an ad on a car show on Spike this weekend that featured a Fitch Fuel Catalyst for a gas truck... He mentioned it to me and I began to research this a bit and then I thought, why not ask here on the forum..? Any input on the matter is greatly appreciated!!!

Installed HPM fans, DR44G 145 Amp alternator, Goodyear gatorback V-belt, and retuned Wheatley PCM. Let me start off by saying it was a great choice in doing so!!! I can feel the extra torque the removal of the clutch fan free'd up, my voltage stays above 14V and the temperature stays below 197.5 deg. F. I'm currently using a 180 degree thermostat and plan to upgrade that at a later time. The fans are amazingly powerful, and also free up a ridiculous amount of space inside the engine compartment. It took my buddy and I (3) hours only because I'm a bit of a perfectionist and installed all of the wiring to look just like stock. I did find one small downside to the swap/ upgrade, when the fans are at full speed, if I lower or raise both windows at the same time my dash lights dimm a bit... but the voltage stays above 14V. However if I'm jamming full blast, my subs don't cause the lights to dimm. I know why and I'm not complaining cause its totally worth it!!!! Here's a pic of the fans, belt and Alternator. Now all I have to do is detail my baby inside and out!

ahhhh that makes sense! Thanks for clearing that up!

Looks about right... Thanks!