Merc Dr.
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Posts posted by Merc Dr.
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Revisiting this idea after driving in the snow for the first time with this truck. IT SUCKED! It doesn't have enough pull from the front end. I read somewhere the ratio is 32/68 as opposed to 50/50 in the 4WD models. Is this true? I assume this is so you can steer on dry pavement?The last post said you needed a bunch of wiring and a trans ECM. THis question is probably for ZIPPY. Would it be most cost effective and less of a hassle to get a complete set up(TC,wiring, ecm) from a bone yard? Can you program a stock 4WD ECM to run the SSS engine? If so, does it have to be a certain vintage or model # ECM?
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Mine goes in Friday. I took it in two weeks ago and they said the pinion bearing was making noise. I go in for ACL surgery Friday so they will dig into the truck while I'm laid up and see if anything else is wrong in there. Luckily I bought an extended warranty with my truck. I'll post in about a week or so when I get the final diagnosis.
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Zippy,Where are you coming from? I'm on the IL/Wis. border.East side of the state.
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I was researching all the tuners on this site. Was thinking Zippy or Wheatley. I read that it is better to do in person. I only have bolt ons and a shift kit. Do you guys think wheatley or Zip can do this "mail order" or is in person the best way to go?Does anyone know who is best in the Northern Il. or southern WI? I'm willing to drive a couple hours, but don't want to go too far.
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JUst reread your timeline. Do you remember it happening before the tires for sure?Maybe try to rebalance the tires.
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I was more faulting the parts, not the install. Iwas thinking one tie rod end went bad allowing the wheel to "toe" in and out on accel and decel. Alot of factors can make one go bad. Have you hit any potholes lately? Rough train tracks?
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I had 50k before I changed mine. My aftermarket brakes start squeeking every once in awhile. Find an empty road, get going 45mph, stand on the brakes, repeat as needed. Also check the wear indicators. Sometimes the rivets that hold them get corroded and allow them to "sag/bend" toward the rotor.
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Excellent guys! I emailed Earl's and they had no idea. Thanks for the help. I'll be placing my second Summit order of the week. I just got my sway bar bushings and end link kit today.
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You've done alot of steering and suspension work. It's possible you have a defective part. Have you taken it back to the shop to have them reinspect all the tie rods and ball joints? I'ld start there before you look at anything else.
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Does anyone know if this is the same part# for AWD? Summit lists this Part # for 2WD. I could be wrong, but I think the 4WD trucks all use rear drums.I'm ready to order some and want to be positve about the parts
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My e-brake was fine with the stock brakes. I putStainless Steel brake kit on, and now the pedal goes to the floor. I haven't had time to look at it, but does anyone know what I should be looking for?
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Does anyone know the part# on the Earl's lines? Iwas looking to buy some, but they don't show up for the SSS in the app. guide. Are they the same as what is on the silverado 4WD or 2WD?
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I have an Arrival Blue 2003 SS. I like the stock rims, but was thinking of a color change. I have the options of stock gray, blue to match, Chrome, black to set it off, or have them "black chromed". Obviosly there are price points involved, but I would rather do it once the "right" way.
I haven't found any aftermarket rims that look quite right on this body style. I like the "boxy mag" look. Not to mention,keeping it stock.
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Going down south from Illinois this weekend. Want to know which vehicle to bring? The SS Silverado or the plain Trailblazer( fuel economy).
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I love this amount of torque, but hate that I can't smoke the tires. I also use this truck for work, so fuel mileage wouldn't be a bad thing.
I bought a 2 year extended warranty, so I can't do motor work(heads,super charger,nitrous,etc.)until that's up. So, I need any other improvements I can get.
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I just put a set of Stainless Steel brakes at all four corners of my 2003 AWD. I got them from Summit SSB-A2351022. I like them over what I had, but I just bought the truck 2 months ago with 46K on it. Anything is better than wore out stock brakes. I haven't put the Stainless steel lines on yet, but hope they make an improvement as well. I also run around with 1K pounds of tools in the bed, as I am a mobile boat mechanic.
P.S. "Dimpled" is short for "Too cheap to cross drill"
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I have a 2003 SS Silverado AWD. I also have a spare transfer case from my 1998 Yukon SUV. Has anyone done a swap to convert their AWD to a switchable transfer case? I took a VERY quick look underneath, and they looked about the same. What would I need if this is possible? Would I just need a dash switch, or is this all part of the ECU? Can Zippy make the computers work together?
I apoligize if this question has been asked a hundred times. I'm on my 14th beer and don't have the patience to sort through previous posts.
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I have a 2003 SS Silverado AWD. I also have a spare transfer case from my 1998 Yukon SUV. Has anyone done a swap to convert their AWD to a switchable transfer case? I took a VERY quick look underneath, and they looked about the same. What would I need if this is possible? Would I just need a dash switch, or is this all part of the ECU? Can Zippy make the computers work together?
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I'm looking at the vented upgrade kit from SSBC. The one that costs about $450 with 4 rotors and pads all around. Has anyone tried these? Good? Bad?I need brakes and these cost about the same as the standard NAPA stuff.
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Here is a pic with the factory rim on the front and aftermarket on the back. Which looks better? I like the factory better in my opinion, and I can't afford to keep both sets, and I would hate to get rid of the factory.
Keep the factories. Those other rims don't match the truck's styling.
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Look at the other post"Finally upgrading" from today. I just answered your question.
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They make a fast bleed fitting for the brake caliper. You swap out your factory bleed screws. It has a check ball in it so you can just loosen it a little. Press the brake pedal to the floor about 3-6 times. MAKE SURE YOUR MASTER CYLINDER STAYS FULL! then close the screw and move to the next one. Always start at the brake furthest from the master and work your way closer.
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I believe it is time for you to do some READING. A SS is not built to respond to a programmer like the diesel, no turbo, no boost. Just fuel, air, timing is going to put you where you want to be.
Do your research, and I think you will agree that a in person tune will give you what you want out of the SS.
CD
The problem is, there is no literature or anything else to show the benefits of a "custom tune". I can read all day about programmers and how they allow you to change shift points and harshness, and plug in your mods to give you power when you want it, and fuel economy when you want it. I can't find any info on custom tunes besides what people say on this website, and half the replies have Superchargers or engine mods that I don't have.
My truck is my WORK TRUCK. IT's a REALLY COOL work truck, but still a work truck. It will be primarily used to haul a 700lb. load around, and OCASIONALLY used to run hard. If you all still think a custom tune is the way to go, I'm going to call one of the tuners to find out if thy can do what I want.
Does anyone know offhand if they can set my tow/haul switch to be my tow/haul ass button? Have normal driving under OD and hit the switch for performance? That is what I'm looking for!
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.65 a Gallon! Did you have to crank start you car back then, or stick your feet through the floor boards?LOL!
I'm About Ta Get Down & Dirty,,,,got A 2/4 On The Way
in Suspension & Brakes
Posted
I you want a quick overview of this job, pick up this month's Truckin magazine. They did a 4/4 drop on an SS 2WD. Same parts as you, but they did torsion bar keys as well.