canadianVRss
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Posts posted by canadianVRss
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That looks pretty good. Planning on side exit through the fender myself. Awesome.
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Damn every few months I would get tired of that. Lol Yeah I also had a set of heat boots on all the wires for extra protection but still melted the boot Lol but yeah I got me a set of Taylor wires today and install them with No problem or any contact with the headers.
Yea I can buy Extra parts & build them correctly but When u pay $85+ for some wires U shouldn't have to buy extra parts like different degrees of angles just to make it fit.
I don't think you're understanding. No extra parts, you don't buy the wires then add parts. You buy the wire, what angle of boots you need, LS coil boots and literally make your own. Cut to length. Here's one I made to get by that hump around the obx headers
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Or just build them correctly with MSD parts. Shorter, longer, different degrees of angles. You can pretty much make whatever you need.
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Sweet deal man. Hopefully she pulls some good times for you.
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I wouldn't put one on my truck unless I had a LSX power plant in it... But that's just me.
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Tuning in house but asking if the stock fuel pump can support upwards of 800-900hp? Good luck sir.
lol, I'm with Zach.
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I also agree with your prognosis. Looks like Trans fluid in your coolant system entering via the internal Trans cooler.
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Wow. Sorry to hear man, hopefully it comes out for you. In my experience its usually just a super time consuming process, but it will come out eventually. What pump did you go with? I'm still trying to figure out my fueling options for my turbo build.
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look at it this way, you think parts stores rotate oil that just sits on the shelf? I wouldn't mess with it if its just sitting in the oil pan not being used. just my .02 cents..
Oil that sits on the shelf is sealed. Oxygen is the problem. Oxygen begins to break down the bonds between the oil (the so called "oil break down"). It's up to you man, I personally would consider changing it myself. But its personal preference really.
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Sounds sweet. I'll be in the market for one in the future to turn into a monster. Good luck with the sale bud!
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Someone didn't read the link I posted. How to test is in there. But it sounds like you might be in the clear.
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You talking primer black or shiny black?
Shiny black would probably be cool. Primer black will just have people pointing and saying "Hey, that dude didn't paint his hood".
Haha I really liked the primered look but didn't want it to look that flat, so I got it painted semi flat.
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I was talking about the front end rebuild time. If the T case is toast it's toast. I'd run it and see, you might've gotten lucky with the 2 mile run time, but like I said... I have my doubts. What people don't realize is the NVG149 was not ment to put %100 power to one driveshaft for more than a very short amount of time until traction is achieved. How often do you light up the wheels and send the T case hunting? More importantly how far do you drive it lighting them up? If you have no power going to the front wheels the t case feels low resistance on the front and thinks you're lighting them up or you're stuck in mud. So it sends power to the rear where it can feel that there is traction. If this is prolonged (no front driveshaft) it'll burn up. So really you drove 2 full miles with the transfer case thinking the front end had no traction and %100 to the rear and for a T case, that's a long way. But, like I said, I'd run it and see. Here's some more info
http://www.denalitrucks.com/documents/Detailed%20Transfer%20Case%20Info.doc
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I think it would look decent on blue. I'm definitely a fan of black rims on blue, don't see why the hood wouldn't look bad. Looks pretty good on red
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Man, why would you drive it without the axels?! Hopefully the front diff added enough resistance on the driveshaft to trick the transfer case into thinking the CVs were still installed, but I have my doubts. Seems like going low is such a PITA, anything lower than 2/2 seems like a little over kill to me. Anyway, you'll need CV axel spacers to help with the CV axels breaking. Sounds like that front end was a little tired, rebuild time.
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If you want 500-550 to the wheels you'll need boost or juice. Also a well built Trans to handle it. What's this about knock sensors removed?! That's a no no, they're there to help you.
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A 408 should flash that 2800 a bit higher anyway once its in. definitely not ideal for the 364 though with that cam like Jason said.
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Did you need a pigtail connector to make it work or does it connect right up? And after more research our pcm's do not support 3bar. 2.5 seems to be the max
Bingo 2.5bar max anyway. Personally I'll be going with the LS9 sensor and pigtail for my Holley.
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Fair share of rice down here in Calgary too. Its to bad on Sunday I rolled up beside a wicked looking tbss at some lights we were both first at the lights, the guy looking like he was down to race, but it was like the second time driving the truck since the fix and I didn't wanna push it hard just yet. This weekend tho I'm gonna take it for one hell of a joy ride looking forward to it!
Sounds like a plan. I was curious about the track down there. I heard it was closed down, is this true?
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I hear the theft rate is quite bad is the southern states. Keep er safe my friend.
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Glad to hear she's back. Go eat up some rice running around Calgary. If there's none there head to Edmonton. There's plenty lol
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It depends where you live. I noticed it wouldn't get as hot and took longer to heat the cab. But I'm also in a cold environment. If you don't winter drive the truck, then it's not really a concern. Yes, get it retuned!
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Sounds like you got it figured man. Where in AB are you? Rochester here.
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Buy a cheap one and test it before you use it. I got mine for $6 at Napa (I have a 2 piece housing though, so they're a bit cheaper). If it functions correctly with no sticking who cares who makes it.
Exhaust question
in Bolt On Performance
Posted
Stock exhaust manifolds have a split in the middle from the factory.