BenKey

what does it take to make this work. I have the intake in and waiting but dont have an earthly idea how to make the 03 rails work. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> If the crossover will go over the instake the rails will work. Can't remember if you have car type injectors, but if you do it will be much easier. You will have to fab some metal pieces to get the rails to bolt up. It will be a metal tab with two holes - one for the rails one for the intake - if you get the idea.

I see. Didn't know you were doing the selling. "Should" be making stout numbers - meaning you have no results? I'd say okay numbers, but without head work I'd seriously doubt they are that stout. The topend "used" is not worth all that much. Even brand new, pushrods are about $145, and the LS7 lifters are not much more. The 243s you have I assume you bought used since you can get them for about $250, or cheaper. What is it in your topend that cost so much?

Unless it is the same motor, injectors, heads, cam, etc...that tune will not work for this combo without quite a bit of adjustment. There are quite a few adjustments that have to be made. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> this motor was in a 01 RCSB with same setup i have. owner pulled it out due to low oil psi. had it shipped to build shop and they fixed it. so now instead of putting it in another ride he offered to me. i would be doing the same setup except 90/90 setup instead of ported 78/Ls6. so it shouldnt be that bad for now. ive been running the 408 tune for about 2k in miles and no issues. but way your speaking that the 408 wouldnt even run my 364 setup but it does not right but it runs it alot better then the tune from PCM4less <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Still don't know what 90/90 means. What exactly was wrong that caused the low oil pressure? I'd be asking a ton of questions - having been there before. I get your distaste for the PCMforless tune - you really should go to his forum (on this site even) and post about it. What are your ltrims reading with a 408 tune in your motor - curious?

Welcome to the site

Who makes it?

Whichever one is the lightest.

Dude, everything in the top end is fairly inexpensive, minus the heads. You say they are 243 castings. So what. What springs, retainers, locks, flow numbers etc...do they have? Sounds like a set of stock heads to me. You can find them fairly cheap. And no...45k miles is not a lot of miles if you planned to bore it out and make a 408. I wouldn't plan to buy a 45k mile motor and make it an all-out setup for speed if that is what you are planning. If you wanted to drop in and run as is, it would probably be no problem. Is that what you plan? Your money, not mine. If you don't mind paying more than what a nearly stock motor is worth (in my book), not my concern.

Unless it is the same motor, injectors, heads, cam, etc...that tune will not work for this combo without quite a bit of adjustment. There are quite a few adjustments that have to be made.

I have no idea how hollow bars could be stronger than something solid. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Absolutely true, regardless. Your stock bar is solid and actually gives pretty easily. On my last truck I installed my front bar about a week before my rear because the rear bar was for a lowered truck and I hadn't done that part yet, but I could tell the difference just from that change in how well the truck handled. If you took two bars, one rectangular hollow bar and one solid and say 20ft long, (1" size) the solid bar would flop in the center if you supported the ends. The hollow bar will for the most part stay rigid because of the strength differences. Take the same bars and make them 6" long and you can bend the solid with your hands, but not the hollow.

Start here: http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6247 Pretty sure all of us with 408 or higher have posted in there. That cam is pretty big. Hope you know how tune, the idle may take a bit to get right. Your CR you can set by the pistons you order vs the CC size of the heads you'll be running.

1k even with the mods? ive seen LS1s go for way more with no mods hell my 5.3 sold for close to that <{POST_SNAPBACK}> What mods? Pushrods? It has a cam and a set of stock heads, with stock pistons, rods, and crank. All of the other is basic upgrades, like ported oil pump, rollmaster chain, etc.. The LS7 lifters are like $250. The best thing on this motor is the ARP head studs. It has 45k miles. Not worth much to me. How much is being asked?

That's why I think you have a short somewhere.

That many miles.....$1k....maybe.

What have you done to it?

Certainly hope you can get more out of it. Some trucks close to that NA.

You can get GM compatible alternator that plug right into your factory harness. Trying to run a 1-wire alternator as tha primary alternator can cause problems. I would get a different one. Screw the all the workarounds. JMO. I have a 200-amp that went in in 10min and no problems.

Not a specific application, no. But, was told that if I gave them measurement they would see if they had something. I still haven't called with that measurement. called QA1 already they do not make them for the new silverados and they do not make them for the SS........i wish they did they said they may make some but owuld be a year till they did. <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I would guess a short somewhere. Hard to find where usually.

mpg differences would be too minimal really to compare, although 2wd would be a tad better. If high gas prices vs the mpg you were getting pushed you away before - it's not going to get much if any better.

There are books, but one of the best places to start is one of the forums. Got to EFILive.com forum and read. Try to stick to some basic stuff to read. A lot of basic info there. If you search on there, some books are mentioned from time to time. There is really only like 1 or 2 that are really talked about though.

Just let here buy stuff and she can't complain. I've spent a lot on mine, but my wife has had 6 new cars in 7yrs of marriage. Do you have a hidden credit card? I used to do it that way.

That's surprising since the truck and SSR intakes flow nearly the same. I would guess you gained from the tb since it is bigger, but not much from the intake. I'll have my FAST on in a couple of weeks.

Hollow bars are stronger.

Hotchkis front and rear is definitely the way to go for sway-bars. For shocks, personally, I want the QA1 Stocker Stars. A little more expensive than your avg shock, or 4 shocks for that matter, but in the end I know I'd be happy. They are adjustable. This month's issue of Sport Truck covered them pretty well. If I couldn't get those or decided not to spend so much, then it be Edelbrocks. They are the only shock that I have used that dramatically decreases body roll. Go great with a set of sway-bars. Last I looked they made ones for lowered trucks and stock ride height. Most shocks cover you pretty well for bumps, not all that I've ridden in help much with body roll.

Instant Econ is missing from the DIC of newer trucks <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I meant avg. Instant is useless, unless.....you're interested in how much mpg is affected by the push of the pedal for that instant. I've used it to teach myself how to drive and use the least gas. That's no fun though...so I stopped caring.