cadowns

Here is the link to the nitroplate.com web site nitroplate.com They are right up the road from me! I guess I should go check them out one day!! CD

perk03z06 What do you have in mind on this? Please make note of the other menbers in the thread below. As you may well know this has been a long standing problem with GM trucks. My 99 had the same issue. let us know what your thoughts are on pursuing the problem. http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=27293 Thanks CD

This would create an exhaust leak, right? Your description sounds a bit wild, but I am sure it would make more noise. what would that do the the O2 sensor reading and A/F reading going to the PCM? CD

This other thread said to use a special high temp grease. Have any members tried this as a fix? The thread indicated that it had worked for other dealer repair shops. All I know is that somehow this needs to be fixed. Mine was lubed at 16k and now at 23k it has the problem again. It is most noticable with colder weather. CD

I think you must be refering to "Headers". The original question was about cyclinder heads, as in AFR brand. Wrapping the plug wires is a good idea also. Justin, could maybe start a new thread and give us all an update on your truck? I know that folks will be interested. Thanks CD

And this had the making of an interesting thread...... I would what to go boosted Quik. A Maggie or a big KB with 9.5 compression, but I think you already have pistons. CD

I have "Under the Rail". Only way for me. I treat me like a Sport Truck, no hauling. Just wanted the extra clean look that comes with Line-X. CD

Here is Sig you can try. Not sure is small enough, but better. CD

rivierakid is half right, half wrong. a shift kit dollar for dollar is not the best modification you can do. however, by installing a shift kit you are doing a few things (generally speaking) you are/can raise shift points so the trans will shift higher in the powerband, not always what you want, but it usually doesnt hurt. "reprogramming" the transmission to engage the shift solenoids/servos to more or less "slap" the bands instead of "rubbing" the bands, which DOES increase transmission life, the life of the bands and clutches, respectively, the hardparts of the transmission may or may not hold up very long depending on usage/shift kit installed. increasing line pressure which is one of the main points of a shift kit. increasing line pressure will usually result in firmer shifts. for someone just starting out i would recommend a cold air intake. cheap and easy to install. depending on how fast you want to go, you can always add a quality cat-back system, which is more for sound/looks than performance, but if you are looking to see a real difference on your truck bolt on a set of long tubes, and tune your pcm accordingly. [email protected] <{POST_SNAPBACK}> i don't see how that really makes the vehicle go faster. a torque converter that doesnt allow the vehicle's rpms to drop as much so it stays in the power band better is more what your saying. a shift kit in itself is only going to give you more fluid, firmer shifts and will benefit you when you add more power doing other things. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> With a properly installed and tuned shift kit you will see faster 1/4 mile track times. The kit will provide quicker shifts, firmer shifts, less delay , all making for a quicker run. The tune ia also a big factor in making for a fun ride and a lasting transmission. There are many threads about this and the advantages of proper combined engine/transmission tuning. IT IS the MOST important mod for an SS. CD

Is that a joke or what? SUX CD

Wilson half way between Raleigh and Greenville, NC. about 40 miles east of Raleigh, but a 700 miles from me. CD

If they build it , I will buy it. I have my doubts...... CD

I think this is what you are looking for. TrickFlow CD

What cylinder # is that worst piston? What does the top look like? CD

chiel I have seen this done and it does work well. The key seems to be how long the stick has been in place. If you have a new truck, it will be easier, older like me and you, it can be harder. Good luck CD

Bill, get you a 2600 PI. It will do the job. CD

So sorry to hear about the converter problems too. PI is located very close to me and has a great product, just look at the $$$. I know that is what I want for a converter. Hope is all comes together quickly. CD

Good work Bill. That is a great set of runs. Is that with the new converter? Are you still using the 3" pulley? CD

Wheel 2 Wheel A very Cool place CD

I would have thought they would come with the kit like other FI kits do. The GM 42- 43 lbs'ers are a direct swap. Just retune for the flow. CD

Did you ever figure out "What degree shim is needed when using Belltech shakles and stock springs? " I would love to know for sure. I have a 2" drop and a vibration @ 45 mph. It will go away if I put a load in the rear. Hope your 60' times benifit from your investment. Cal Trac is the best ! CD

I understand that there is a minimum BORE size for theses heads. There is a good thread on ls1tech about using these heads. I guess there will be a number of things to work out on them, like cam. pushrods. etc. The price is right though. CD

"Progressive" I had a similar experience and had to round and round to get it fixed right with progressive. It was about $2000 for the rear repair CD

USMC 6 years. I don't want to remember all I did. CD

I have been using it for about 3 years and it is great stuff. I spray in on a soaked car, fix my other wash water and then hose off the bugs, and wash as normal. One gallon will last for a long time. CD