Punisher
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Posts posted by Punisher
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This is a Chicago joke for Sox fans.
So there was mama bear, papa bear, and baby bear.
Mama bear and papa bear went to court and got a divorce.
The judge sent baby bear with papa bear, but papa bear would beat baby bear.
So the judge took baby bear from papa bear, and gave him to mama bear, but mama bear also beat baby bear.
They went back to court and the judge looked at baby bear and said, "Give him to the Chicago Cubs, they never beat anybody!"
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Snowin in Laramie too haha
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You would be surprised how much power those can make. NHRA regulated ECOTECs in 4 cylinder classes to 300lbs heavier than any other 4 cylinder in the class and can't increase beyond a 68mm turbo, they are the only specified engine to be regulated in that class.
Seems import guys were gettin pissed that they were gettin beat in their own game lol. But a supercharged 4 cylinder and a v8 sports truck is apples to oranges
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thanks for all the info, now i just have to find one at a good price. i like the idea of a oversided tranny cooler will pic one up also.
My Magnacharged daily SS tranny heats up pretty quick but doesnt go over operating temperature. You shouldn't need to upgrade your tranny cooler.
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I got an optima d34/78 battery and supposebly from the site it says I could just replace my old battery with it. I got a kicker zx1500.1 mono block amp and 2 kicker 12inch L7s. 1/0 guage streetwires kit a 1 farad digital streetwires cap streetwire rcas. I havent messed with any of it and prefer to do it myself so if anyone could help me on how to do it and let me know if I need a high output alternator Id be grateful thank you. Also if I installed it would it do anything to the trucks computer?
You don't need a high output alternator if your capacitor is working properly. (And you will get terrible feedback while your drive with a high output alternator if it is not set up for it). It will not mess with your computer.
Hooking up subs its pretty simple.
First you might need to read the instructions of your capacitor and it might need a precharge to it. Precharge following directions.
Disconnect your battery.
Then start with power. Wire your large gauge power wire from your positive terminal of your battery to your capacitor with a fuse no more than 2 feet from your positive terminal. If I am not mistaken the streetwires capacitors are two post and you will run the power wire from your battery to the power of the capacitor and on the same terminal run the power from the capacitor top post to the amp.
Next, ground. Wire a ground from the capacitor negative post to the amp, and wire another ground wire from the capacitor to a proper body ground. For example the set of studs under the rear seat for the factory bottle jack.
Then wire a remote turn on wire from your head unit remote power to the remote turn on to your amp.
After wire your RCA cables from your head unit to the amp.
Then wire the positive and negative wires from the amp to the sub.
Then reconnect your factory battery and enjoy the bass!
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I think mine were $1800 with shipping. They came with Hankook Ventus ST from Factory Reproductions
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Your truck looks amazing.
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Wyotech Laramie Campus
Automotive Core - Graduated
Motorsports Chassis Fabrication
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Okay, so maybe its only almost October, but I'm trying to think of something to get my boyfriend for Christmas.
He owns a 2003 SSS & I have not a clue what to get him, but the truck is definitely his most prized possession.
Help a girl out. Any suggestions?
How much do you plan to spend? Do you know what he has done to the truck?
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Well, manufacturers "recommend" iridium because it can withstand higher cylinder temperatures and has an easier spark jump, so is less wear on your coils, better spark which includes better combustion hence more power, throttle response and better fuel mileage.
So I would recommend a change with iridium plugs, not e3.
I would be surprised if there was any increase in fuel mileage with those plugs and would not be surprised if they would fail much quicker from high cylinder temperatures and took a large toll on your coils trying to jump a harder gap they were not designed to do.
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160-190 degrees should be operating temperature for your transmission. I think its doing well
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Am I remembering incorrectly don't LQ9s require iridium plugs?
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4.49 1/8 @ 163mph... 7.09 1/4... pretty sure he let off after the 1/8 cause I think they said 16Xmph for the 1/4.
Needless to say... it $H1TS AND GETS!
Super Chevy did an article about him and the car and their best run was 4.43 at 178 in the eighth-mile. That's one quick 1/8 mile car. Not too sure if he let off because any car geared for 1/8 mile is definitely not geared for 1/4 mile.
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I love the comment "4.9 lol.... i wanna see an Import **** Car do that."
Its pretty wicked!
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Pulled the truck in, put it on the lift and took all the factory exhaust off, since I am doing a corsa to go along with the OBX L/Ts. After the manifolds are off we start with the passenger side. My buddy trying to pull the dipstick tube out, broke it off at the engine block. We were unable to get the remaining end of the dipstick out, so it is currently siliconed shut.
Now, the headers are finally on up to where they bolt to the main exhaust. The OBX "cats" are on however the rear O2 sensor on passenger side is stripped and will not thread into the bung.
Start driving, open headers, and at about 30mph the CEL starts to flash. I have not gotten a tune yet and probably wont have the money for a month or so. Is this flashing caused by the "cats" not really being cats?
I will take the truck to advance tomorrow and get the obd scanned.
HOW does the dipstick tube come out? and are there any suggestions on how to get the tip out?
Thanks in advance..
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Evan
The MIL could have came on for one of three reasons. A. Because of the computer seeing your non-existent catalytic converters are not functioning properly, rear O2S not functioning properly, or you didn't install your front O2S and your computer cannot control fuel trims.
Unbolt and slide out the dipstick tube. It may take some force to free it from the block as it uses an interference fit and an O-ring seal that tends to get stuck. It should use a bracket to hold the dipstick tube in place
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well I finally picked up a truck cover for the sss. I picked up a Covercraft cover, Its the weathershield HD. Its brand new and came with the locks and bag. I picked it up for $200 shipped Seems like a good deal. Originally they are priced at just over $500. Lets see how it works out. Truck is always parked outside in the driveway and with the recent fires here, it kept getting full of ashes and dirty just sitting there. Hopefully it doesnt scatch the hell out of it and last me some time. What truck covers are you guys using for your truck
Gaylord Speedsturr
Bed covers are a need!
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there is no need for a new fuel pump if not using any other kind of performance kit like meth injection or nos,if ya did then you would need a fuel pump. i never got the pump from the guy i bought it from. i tapped into my oil filter housing with a 1/8th pipe thread fitting and the return they wanted me to drill the oil pan but i modified my oil level sensor to have for a drain. i bought a new level sensor yesterday so i will take it out and give that to you. and no i dont have the part number for the kit. i left a power steering pump on for convience just makes it easier for ya. if a fuel pump is a concern to ya there is a inline booster pump for under 100 bucks from any auto shop but it is not necessary at all. dont know what ya have for a programer but it has to be tuned to run the 44lb injectors, im running a predator diablo sport wich is totallr programable by any performance shop.
this is what he said. I already have/use a diablo sport tuner.
Would this all work?
Sounds like he's just trying to get rid of it. Just about every forced induction system used for GM trucks come with an upgraded fuel pump because stock fuel pumps are not efficient enough to supply that much fuel for those large of injectors and boost.
I don't want to be the one to tell you this but I wouldn't do it. I would buy a brand new supercharger kit of your choice. I have already gone down buying a used supercharger road and spent way more money than I would have just buying it brand new, along with so much ridiculous hassle and risks.
That's just my opinion.
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I was looking at OBX, but was worried about emissions. I think here in IL we just do the OBDII check, can't remember for sure.
I just looked under the truck. I was thinking it had a Y-pipe because my Corsa cat back is 2into1. Do the OBX pipes have one bolt up flange and one slip fit? My set up is unique. I have the 2 pipes going into a small x pipe. One end goes to the muffler and one to an electric cut out.
Illinois emissions are OBDII scanned. They check for DTCs. If you are looking at a cat delete then just get a diablosport and block the O2S or get a custom tune and block them. It works
They will see if your truck has recently been cleared of codes and recent drive cycles and warm up cycles. Open loop functions or a O2S "Not supported" tune will not be seen and you will pass emissions.
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i hope the adjuster doesnt see the nitrous or the may argue the fire
Nitrous is a non-flammable gas. Whats the adjuster going to argue?
Sorry about your loss.
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Well if it was a fuse it wouldn't get power in park. Just found out it is a fuse to NSS and instrument cluster. I'm guessing that the NSS consumes too much voltage for the wideband to operate with as well.
Any other ideas?
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you want a constant 12v to a wideband controller. a switched 12v goes off at crank and that messes with the calibration and settings of both your gauges and the wideband
EDIT: I used the ign 0 of the dash fuse block to power both the wideband and my guages. its 12v at key on and remains 12v when cranking
Thats what I used and it only works in park.
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Wired up my power for the Innovate LC-1 wideband today to what I thought would be a good location to the ign-0 hot wire, for 12v key on, 14v run pos, and 0v off. But the problem is the wideband only receives power in park.
(didn't check it in gear)I don't have the directions anymore and I don't remember where i wired it to last time.
So just looking for some input on where everybody wired their power on wire for the gauge and HO2S.
(I would preferably like an in dash 0v key off pos, 12v key on and 14v run pos, I'm a little too lazy to turn a switch and run it through the firewall grommet but I will run it underhood if I really have to.)
Thanks
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i have an 05 silverado ss and i would like to disable the awd so i can do some showing off (burning tires).... i dont want it to be permanent just for like a day or so... is removing the front driveshaft the easiest way to do this and
also would this hurt anything by doing this
If you just disconnect the front driveshaft you will fry your viscous. They make plates that mount on your transfer case and hold the side of the viscous you want from spinning to disconnect for dyno purposes.
I do not remember what the call the plate or where you can buy them, but you can do it.
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Haha, I have a feeling my act of comfort is gonna get me flamed for this paint lol
Magnacharger
in Forced Induction and Nitrous
Posted
Well Magnacharger has phased out the 112 to the TVS 1900 which is a much better supercharger so it might be hard to find a 112 let alone probably not the best to choose from. They do come with a tune. I can get about 16-22 depending how easy I take it just driving around town, but its pretty hard not to put your foot on the gas with all that power there.