SS-GTP

Your post is a little confusing,,,you say it doesn't do it in gear,but then you said you heard it going down the freeway. Also have you checked the code for the check engine light? You say it sounds like its from underneath, can you pinpoint it to be near the front (under engine area) or mid-section (transmission/transfer case area)? You thought it may be a fan, have you checked the play in the engine fan, is the water pump bearing going bad?

The white piece is the brake switch - activates the brake lights when pressure is applied to the pedal and won't let you shift out of park unless pressure is applied

LOL, "Are these header bolts supposed to be 10mm? I've found a ton of metric stuff in my engine bay so far (unless this is OEM?)". Yes, nearly every bolt in your SS is metric. The automotive giants went metric back in the 90's. I agree that it's very common for broken manifold bolts, I got the pleasure of extracting the driver side one closest to the firewall when I did my headers. As far as access goes pull the front wheel and the wheel well liners and you will have nearly straight access to the bolts but will need some ratchet extensions. Unless you do find a crack in the manifold(s) and are not interested in performance upgrades at this time I would just reuse the manifolds. I would just get new gaskets from the dealer and new bolts and put it back together.

Green is definitely not the right color and needs to be changed. I would not of sucked it out though. I just add new to the reservoir and push out the old stuff and keep re-filling the reservoir. Yes, your going to waste some new fluid as it mixes with the old but eventually you will just have clear fluid at each corner. At this point you probably have air in the ABS module and about the only way to purge that is to take it to shop that has a Tech 2 diagnostic tool and run the proper procedures.

I took a look at that StopTech link this morning, and when selecting 1500,SS in the drop-down that listed part # 126.66045SL. Looking up the specs on that, it is the thicker 330mm rotor that you want.

I will add some more info: 2003 thru mid-2005 are rear disc (with an e-brake drum) and late-2005 thru 2007 are full drum. The e-brake drum is much simpler then then full drums and I would not be discouraged by it. Your rear will be dual piston caliper, but you need the 330mm diameter rotor. They also offer a 325mm diameter but it is too narrow for our setup. The only tool I remember using is a 18mm wrench/socket to remove the caliper bolts. My older truck used a T-55 socket, but I have not used that on my SS (assuming the previous owner didn't swap the hardware out). I'm curious about this "scraping action" the slotting provides, because my understanding is the slots are there to allow the gases to escape so the pads don't hydroplane on the rotor surface

These various oil viscosity mostly boil down to fuel efficiency vs wear. In recent years there has been a push for fuel efficiency so the car companies have sacrificed wear. A car listed for 0W30 will run just fine on 5W30 or even 10W30 but fuel economy will go down. And 5W30 vehicles will run on 0W30 if your willing to live with increased wear. Heck back in 2004-2006 I'm not sure if 0W30 was even a valid oil yet, if it was it might of been our listed oil. In any case I would stick with 5W30,

If you do it, don't forget to have someone turn off your rear O2 sensors in the software or your check engine light will be on for loss of efficiency in banks 1 and 2.

Welcome, Did the seller disclose any other modifications made? I would think that if someone went to the trouble of installing cut-outs, they would of possibly already done some other performance upgrades such as long tube headers.

If I'm interpreting the photos correctly, it looks like you have dual mufflers with dual outlet pipes. That would not be factory, as from the factory you would of only had a single muffler with 2 inlets and a single outlet with a rectangular shaped tip. Missing that section of pipe after the muffler is not having any effect on why you would be getting codes. The rest of your system looks stock, but I can't tell how well it seals from the photos.

Did some quick research to eberhama's comment, and it does appear that if you take away the front input into the transfer case "aka failed front diff in your case", that will allow the rear output to turn similar to a open differential even though the transmission is locked by being in Park.

I'm confused, what does the front diff have to due with your truck rolling away? Sounds more like you have a transmission problem with the parking pawl not engaging correctly.

Your likely to get conflicting responses. IMO gong from OEM to high dollar stuff is not going to provide any benefit unless you have other upgrades to compliment it. Now in your case if you have high mileage plugs and wires, just a tune-up back to OEM equipment might benefit you a little.

You mentioned that NGK plugs were included, but not which part number. Are they TR5's or something else? Just making sure they are the right heat range and gap for your setup.

How does the opposite side (other half of the case) bearing race fit? I don't remember how tight mine where, but with the case being cracked it may of relieved some of the press fit. Second to remove that bearing there is a locking tang on the other side that needs bent out of the way then it just threads out (might need some persuasion). Before doing that first somehow mark the ring on each side of the tang so that you know which slot the tang was in. Then count the number of turns to thread that adjuster out. Keep track of the information to help setup the diff when you are ready to re-assemble it. Because these 2 races (one on each side of the carrier) are designed to slide they are not going to have a lot of press. They side so that you can get the proper contact with the pinion.

Try just the passenger side only if you haven't already. My passenger side would work alone, but as soon as I activated the drivers side it would turn both sides off. My issue was a short in one of the drivers seat elements.

I used: 9.5172R bushing and 9.8121R end-links. The bar is 1-1\4 or 32mm. Of course the "R" is for red, they also come in black.

To me your symptoms suggest you have very little flow possibly due to a water pump impeller coming loose, not sure that's been much of an issue on this design though. If you have a bad thermostat you should still have cab heat. 2nd if you have a plugged heater core cutting off cab heat, the engine itself would still be able to control its temperature and not overheat. The other thing I thought about is a restriction in the main cooling circuit such as a blocked radiator or collapsing lower radiator hose should still allow you to have cab heat.

I've been running them for a couple of years without issues. Although they did fit right out of the box, the driver side ran very close to the front driveshaft yoke and on hard turns could get enough chassis twist to make contact, so I reshaped them (beat them) to get more clearance in that area. Also as mentioned above you do need to tie back the #5 spark plug wire to keep it from touching the hump. I picked the OBX over the cheaper pacesetters is 1. I live in a snow state with road salt and was concerned that the mild steel wouldn't hold up and 2. because they included the mid-pipes so no additional cost to finish the connections to the muffler. But if you live further south plenty of folks have been very satisfied with the pacesetters. I also don't think the brand of header makes much difference in the sound at the end of the tailpipe, that deals more with cats, resonators, cross-over pipes, mufflers

I'm not a/c expert, but you should be able to achieve an outlet temperature in the low 40's. 52 degrees is pretty high unless the outside ambient temps was over 100 degrees. I have a slow leak in my system and every spring I have to recharge it. I usually need to put in 1.5 lbs to get it fully functional again and have an output of 38F on a 85F day.

I painted mine myself using caliper paint (high heat paint) from the auto parts store. Been 2 years now and they're holding up to Iowa winters very well.

Any checks performed on the parking brake drum shoes? Wonder if the passenger side is set too close to the rotor?

Welcome, I will be on the lookout. I'm now living in Waterloo, but family is still in CR.

I tried the updated orifice also due to having an issue with loss of power steering at low rpm. I found that it didn't help. So next I swapped out the entire pump and haven't had the issue since (that's probably been 3 years now). During my research for the issue, I also remember reading that the "chrome" GM looking pumps had an improvement over the original black ones so I purchased a "chrome" version off ebay. Also during this battle, I first installed a remaned Oreilly, AutoZone, AdvanceAuto, etc pump and that thing functioned correctly, but it had a terrible whine. I only ran that pump for about a week before going to the GM version.

I can't explain why the drop, but I converted the numbers to values I'm more familiar with and your definitely on the low side of average fuel usage for this vehicle, but as stated above there are many factors. Assuming you have the 26gal fuel tank, 650km converts to 400miles/tank, which then converts to 15miles/gallon (or 6.7km/L) - that seems reasonable for a mix of highway/in-town usage. Now repeat those calculations for 350km and that comes out at 8.4miles/gallon. - I would say that's low, unless your doing a lot of stop and go and rapid accelerations.