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ill have some pictures this evening just wasn't sure if they were still selling

Are these still an item of interest for people? I managed to get them from previous owner a while back but I am now going to be selling the truck. They aren't in perfect condition but pretty decent. If so, would $500 be a good asking price? Thanks for any advice

I want the hood soooo bad but i'm way too far away

I'd have to guess a typo

Awesome man, Glad i could help in any way. Let me know if you ever need anything

GOOD NEWS YET?

Welcome from Tulsa!

I want to say I've emailed them before, with no response lol

mine does it on occasion, I push the temp controls all the way cold then back hot and it warms right up. However mine seems to be all over cold not partially divided, Def going to go with you have a failed blend door as well. They appear to be fairly easy to change depending on which one it is

okay, i understand now, probably shorted from moisture or something being exposed

okay, when i was having some issues i removed it when switching back to factory radio, i didn't know you could use it with it, like mentioned i only knew of it to make aftermarket radios compatible to the factory bose amp and speakers.

Well i see you have tried a PAC from earlier in the thread but it seems like yours is a different setup then mine, I'm using the PAC unit to make my kenwood work with all the factory stuff and don't recall it having RCA plug ins on it. I'm running my sub and sub amp off the radio sub pre-amp outs. but still utilizing the factory bose amp. From what i understood, it made the radio signal compatible to the factory amp. via the PAC unit

No problem man, I'm no expert and you may be able to pull it off by wiring around the amp, I just don't want you being out speakers and an amp if its just your amp, I also am not trying to tell you what to do, just merely advise in what I could see may go wrong. I don't want to tell you something that may break more stuff so i'd rather be the guy telling you to be safe than sorry you did try a new PAC unit correct? I've heard having a bad unit can cause static and popping before with bose

I've got the kenwood ddx 7019 with all the add ons and it retains steering wheel controls

I wonder if the routing of the pipe is too close to the front drive shaft that's not normally there on 2wd?

I personally don't know that one, It is possible. I know some of the "Monsoon" systems run different variants of ohm so it's possible ours does as well, if that's the case he could fix that section of wiring to make them compatible with the HU but he'd possibly lose his tweeters then. I'm content with my Bose but if it goes I'll then swap it out but for now it sounds great with my subs IMO.

I wonder if possibly the leds are getting too much power, are they definitely designed to be used in 12V source? I'm sure they are but they may need a small resistor to help if it happens again

unless he changes speakers or gets a different amp, re-wiring will have no effect on the problem. His aftermarket deck will not give the proper ohm load needed for the factory speakers, it will with the PAC unit but that mates it to run with the factory amp. If his amp did indeed fail, it needs replaced or the system needs to be re-wired with proper 4 ohm speakers to match his 4 ohm output from the aftermarket deck and/ or another aftermarket amp designed to work at the proper watt and ohm load for the stock speakers will need to be installed which then would require wiring from scratch as well. He is going to attempt to run the stock 2 ohm speakers on a 4 ohm 22 Rms output at his own discretion, I and others have warned that there may be ill effects by doing this. Just wiring the speakers around the amp will not be a definite solution, and could result in more damage.

There's some pretty mean looking MTX's on here that say .75 but i thought on crutchfield they suggested more space.. might research it a lil http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/products/18/Car_Subwoofers/Component_Car_Subwoofers.aspx?NS=Suggested+Sealed+Box+Volume|.75&NS=Diameter|12

Just don't want ya destroying your speakers man but it's your decision if you give it a go

The air space is making it tough to recommend a good sub and the cap is pretty high for 1000 watts I don't think it should matter but my 900 watt system has 1.5 farad working great

well with the proper harness (PAC Unit) which i believe he tried, it would convert to the proper ohm load if going through the amp, however he thinks the amp is causing issues so he's attempting to bypass the amp and direct wire the speakers but that's where the ohm load of the radio and speaker would conflict. safe route, run wires to new 4 ohm speakers or replace amp with factory amp or another amp that gives you the proper watts at 2 ohms to run factory speaker system. Or risk it and run your bose 2 ohm speakers on your 4 ohm 22 rms radio output, but i can't promise it will work or stay working.

anything is possible, my only concern would be sound, theoretically the plastic would flex and maybe pop with a decent amount of power pushed through it, i make my steel roof panels resonate i could only imagine if it were plastic

it's going to be 22 rms coming straight off the radio, but i don't know if that's rated for 4 ohm speakers or not or if it matters

If i'm understanding you right you're trying to keep the bose speakers and bypass the amp? Be cautious doing that if that is what you're saying. Bose is tricky because it uses a 2 ohm load i believe, that is why it's tricky to match speakers to use with the factory amp. not using the bose amp with the speakers may result in poor performance or damaging the speakers not sure what kind of power the bose speakers will pull from the radio with the 2 ohm load. it may be fine