Fourtraxjay

I've had 2 sss, Installed LT on both, Had to deal with this twice! One truck was winter driven, one was a garage queen, No difference, those freakin things don't want to come out sometimes. You state you can't get it out from top or bottom? by 'bottom' do you mean you've dropped the oil pan? If the top piece broke off so that the remaining bit is not flared to dip stick size, you should be able to push, hammer it into oil pan, That was what I ended up doing on first truck. but dropping the oil pan to retrieve the piece is a pia. I ended up there after some progress by tapping the broken piece, then threading a bolt through a socket to pull it out, It pulled half out,and left last bit behind, which ended up getting pushed into pan. For anyone reading this before they break it, here is my advice to a stubborn dip stick. ** with stock exhaust manifolds installed. 1- soak tube into block area with pb blaster or whatever penetrant. 2- remove bolt holding tube bracket to head 3- pull 4 pull some more, wiggle a bit, 5- RES|IST urge to twist as you wiggle. Thats what will break it. 6- Give up pulling a get ready to destroy it in attempt to get it out in one piece. 7- Grab some needle nose or appropriate vise grips and clamp onto tube in between the exhaust manifolds. By 'clamp' I mean hard, your going to squash the tube and destroy it, but the vise grips have to be on like a sob. 8- hammer down on the end of the vise grips as they rock against manifold and pull up on tube. the upwards hammering should pull it out in one piece. worked for me and saved me nightmare of my first, tap broken piece, pull out half, hammer remaining in, drop pan and retrieve fiasco... In either case you'll need a new tube. Wierd how some are like that while others fall in like a hot dog down a hallway.

Got my first SSS when my boy was 2. The full bore baby seat fit fine. He loved the sss so much he pleaded I buy another one when the first one burnt. Now that he's 7 and nearing the end of the 'booster seat' phase, he still has tons of room and adores the truck. The booster seat clips in and out in seconds. The full bore baby seat took more effort to re and re but they aren't in those very long anyway. Needing a baby seat is no reason to rule out the silverado ss. And the mutual love of the truck sure adds to the father son bonding. I mean my boy picks out every fake SS we see and explains to me why he can tell its not a real one. And has also learnt that we keep the supercharger a secret from strangers......lol. When he see's new trucks he says he like ours better cause it has "angry eyes"and looks meaner haha Just be careful, if you son is like mine, you'll be married to the truck. I can't even think of getting rid of it now or I'd crush him. As a bonus though, bad behavior is easily corrected with threats of using my DD with him rather than the truck.

Sorry I don't have time to read the entire thread at the moment, but 1 observation. I had this exact same problem using EFILIVE. I think on both of my SSS's. The solution was to uncheck the "use high speed" button. I see your program has the exact same box and you have it checked. It will take longer to load a tune, but at least it will load. Also make sure you truck's batt is really good, I don't know if I am way off here, but it seems to me that many attempts to load, reboot, reflash, etc. sucks up juice. Good luck Jay

I am posting this to thank all sss members/ posters for sharing so much knowledge on this site. I finally have a 12 second street truck. The full size syclone of my dreams. Best pass yesterday was 12.88, with 2 more passes in 12.9's I started the quest for a 12 second sss when I inherited my fathers last daily driver. A red 03 awd ss. I had that thing in the low 13's and wasn't going to stop until I had a 12 second tribute truck for the old man. Well as I posted on here at the beginning of the summer, that pride and joy tribute truck burst into flames when driving home one day and burnt to the ground before my eyes. I had failed my goal of a 12 second truck. I was feeling pretty blue about the propect of replacing it with a run of mill avalanche or something, So I flew half way across the country to find another blank canvas SSS then sent an email to Justin at Blackbear for some " do over advice". I basically built the same truck since I was so happy with all my past mods. Only I used the tvs1900 this time. I cannot express the feeling I get looking over my shoulder at supercharged mustangs watching to see if they can reel me in...... This awd launch always pretty much gaurantees that you will be winning a least for a little bit....... haha This dream truck of mine would not have been possible without the knowledge and help provided by: -My father- rip. Your lessons were hard, but i feel they stuck... -My mother- for giving me his old red SSS and starting this whole thing. -Silveradoss.com- Saving me thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours. Use the search button people. you can save thousands from wasted mods that don't work, or don't work well together, etc. Thanks people. -Justin at Blackbear filled in the giant hole of what to do about tuning. As well as selling me my second blower and a pile of other parts. A very helpful fellow. -Joe and Julliano at Mr. Transmission on St. Regis in Toronto. Talk about standing behind your work. These guys talked me out of a 4l80e conversion and claimed they could get my 65 to hold. It was not a 1 shot deal. They had to work out a few things initially, but they totally delivered what we discussed. Great shop. -Mike- You know who you are. Other than tuning and trans all mods were done my Mike and I. Thanks for all the help wrenching, thanks for busting my ballz to go find another SSS after mine burnt since I would be miserable in anything else. And congrats. You finally beat my truck! (* note: Mike is selling his beautiful Kenne Bell Mustang GT because he had to buy an SVT cobra in order to finally beat me!!! haha.) Now to spend the winter perusing silveradoss.com for further knowledge....... I wonder how long I can put off the urge to splurge...... what to do next. Hmmmmmmmm Thank again Silveradoss.com Jay

Hi, I have a pin kit from magnacharger. If yours is the same jig, my instructions say to "Drill the supplied bit into the second step of the bit" When I measure the length of the bit up to the step it is approx. 43mm. Again, this is for use with the maggie jig which is about 23mm thickness at base and total 26mm total thickness 23mm+3mm raised center. Hope this helps. P.S not to hijack, but I'm getting ready to re-use my maggie pin kit and want to know if it is safe to use old drill bit shafts for pins, or if this is a dangerous idea. And what is part number for required replacement GM bolt? I've searched and can't find, d'oh EDIT: just picked one up from dealer. part number 12557840 good luck breaking that crank bolt use. To date that is the tightest bolt I have ever removed in my life..... Jay

Hello, I have no idea what is wrong with your truck. I am simply encouraging you to deal with it. http://wwwapps.tc.gc.ca/saf-sec-sur/7/vrdb-bdrv/search/RecallDetail.aspx?lang=eng&mk=0&md=0&fy=0&ty=9999&ft=&ls=0&sy=0&rn=2011074&cf=SearchResult This may or may not be related to your truck. This may or may not be related to my truck, which burst into flames with what appeared to be a fire started around heater/ac box by firewall. Good luck.

I'm not a religous person at all, but I did find solice in the idea that if there is a car heaven, then my father is ripping around in that thing with the biggest $h1T eating grin!!!!!

There were many reasons I got so into the SSS. Edit. wow I can really ramble on..... My father taught me everything about cars, fixing things, etc. When I was a teen we'd do father son road trips to Bonneville to help our friend pit. Those were long drives full of talks on engine theory, the new developments in turbos, what are dream cars were etc...... Well my dream truck was a Syclone. My father oversaw my first build when I was a teen. He gave me an old company truck with a blown motor ('82 s10) and another old company truck that was wrecked (full size p/u) and said "here, I bought you your first truck, be careful......." With his help, I stuffed the v8 out of the full size into the s10. Can you say sleeper, beater, high school hero? Syclone, Syclone, Syclone that's all I'd talk about. So 13yrs later when he gets the SSS I totally get on him to build it right. Modern day, Full sized Syclone. Come on who can resist a 13sec daily driver that you can put your dirt bike in the back? I never got my father's SSS into the 12's. I did not want to think of this as a failed goal. So. I spent 30hrs on my computer, flew half way across the country to drive 20hrs back with what I am going to call "the Phoenix" (rise from the ashes). Blk, 05, awd, only 80 000km, factory sunroof. Super nice. The build starts again. This I will get into the 12's!!! Wasn't really in my budget to build 'revision 2', but whatta ya gonna do? I'll figure something out. I think an Mp122 instead of the 112 ole red had, may help the cause??(12sec)

Well I did not sleep for about 3 nights thinking of what caused this. All kinds of possibilities went through my mind. Only 1 makes sense...... First I thought maybe a tranny cooler line went and soaked the header wrap until it got hot enough to combust, but I did not smell any oil burning smell... Maybe a cat overheated? My wideband was on drivers side bank reading all good, but possible problem on pass bank? I doubt this. Maybe a fuel rail broke, popped?? Again, I doubt it, this would have been a whole different kind of fire..... All my lines were good, no tranny lines were rotten despite the fact she was within 500km of turning 200,000km. (125,000miles) I was under this thing all the time tweaking stuff and inspecting at the same time. All my gear head buddies and mentors actually called me to make sure I was not beating myself up about this that maybe is was something I had done. "Dude, your so meticulous when you build stuff its irritating. Do not think this was your fault......" Also, I had put over 40 000km on the truck with all the major stuff done, so if something was gonna go it would have by now, no? Then I researched some more and found this: http://wwwapps.tc.gc.ca/Saf-Sec-Sur/7/VRDB-BDRV/SEARCH/RecallDetail.aspx?rn=2011074&lang=eng When I drive I feel I am really in tune with the vehicle. Especially if I have worked on it for a long time. That day, I was watching my gauges, listening to stuff, etc. and I was listening to the Blower motor. I leave the Climate control on auto. That day was very hot. I heard the blower motor change tones, and thought 'huh, the temp in here is constant and right around where is should be....." then whooof. Every time I re told the story, no one really cared about that part. Then I spoke to another mechanic who said his buddies truck started on fire cause of the blower motor..... I read that recal. My truck never had ANY symptoms before this happened. When it combusted, it combusted. and I assume that when a certain part melted got air, then whoof!! I did not smell burning plastic or rubber, no smoke in cabin, NO SIGNS OF TROUBLE until too late. I do not know if this the cause. But is makes the most sense considering where I saw the flames when I opened the hood. Regardless...... I do not like it when "life kicks me in the balz" I'm never got my dad's truck to 12.99 so......... see my next post.

I'll totally admit it, I'm a grown man, but I cried when this happened. No one was hurt so I am very grateful. Stuff can be replaced right? Driving home from my cottage on a very hot long weekend with the A/C pumping, my 3 1/2 son sleeping in his car seat, my sister riding shot gun, with all the gauges reading perfectly, I hear a whooof! I look in the rearview and for a split second thought my tonneau cover had somehow flopped up over the rear window untill I realized it was smoke! Luckly there was an exit right there, so I got on the binders and pulled off. The truck was still running perfectly, but I had a horrible, horrible feeling...... I maintain this thing to a 'T' and I knew this was no rad hose. Once stopped, told my sister to get my boy out of the truck immediately and go away. She did, but I could tell she was wondering why I was so worked up. I'm a gear head, break downs don't phaze me, but she could tell I was serious. Shut down the perfectly running 13 second SSS for that last time, ran around the truck trying to find source of burning rubber, plastic, smoke smell. Praying to find a bad tire, I opened the hood to find a few tiny flames between the firewall and the blower on the pass. side. I grabbed some water bottles knowing full well this truck was done. Water 1- flame out, flame, up, water, 2 flame out, flame up. water 3 same thing. I start scrambling thinking of disconecting the battery when I realize this is done she's gonna go no matter what I do with out an extinguisher. I empty what I can out of it as the fire starts to rage then simply walk away and try to console my son who's screaming like someone is killing his puppy. He loved that truck so much watching him scream "daddy fix it, I don't want the red truck to burn, Fix it now!!!" I say what I can to help him and his crying that "you said I could drive the red truck when I was an adult!!" This didn't make it much easier. By the time the Fire dept. arrived the forest beside my SS had caught fire. Caution for SSS lovers the following pictures are graphic. This SS was my father's last truck before he passed in 09. I pledged to build the truck GM should have to honor his last vehicle. (he was a big hot rodder, car collector, gear head, CHEVY guy). Oversized brakes, Radix, 3'pulley, Dynatech longtubes and hi flow cats, Magnaflow, 2 inich drop w rear sway, E fan conversion, Self taugh EFIlive basics but with tuning from Blackbear, JVC double din, with sub, amp, etc. And a bunch of other stuff. My goal was to get this thing to 12.99 ET as a true daily driver. I got to 13.3 while infuriating all the Mustangs and most other daily drivers at the strip. This story goes on...... This is what many would call the sad part. I'm over the loss and am simply grateful no one was hurt, so I don't see this as sad anymore. Stay tuned.

Best answer I have found so far is here: http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?13915-Wiring-NGK-Powerdex-AFX-to-the-V1-scan-tool Basically saying to connect brown anaolog ground to V2 handheld pin1 ext1 And to Chassis ground. Jay

Thanks, Ok got the wideband working now. I had read what sinr98 suggested before, but re-read it and it now makes more sense. I was assuming the pids in efilive for the ngk afx controller would be 'ready to use'. I am starting to understand the difference, as stoich value for the afx and the pcm do not match. I will re read some stuff on integrating the afx to efilive, but before I can go any further, can someone please clear up what to do with the brown anaolog ground wire from the AFx? Connect it to pin 1 of ext 1 (analog ground) of efilive handheld, OR connect it to same chassis ground I used for AFX controller (as directed in AFX manual) OR both? (ie run wire to handheld as well as have it jumpered to chassis ground?) I think I simply run it to the handheld along with the yellow signal wire, but I don't understand why the AFX manual reads: "When utilizing the analog output feature of the AFX, always be sure to connect the system ground (two black wires) to the same location as the analog SIGNAL GROUND (Brown wire). " Can someone please clear up this simple issue for me. Enough AFX controllers are out there that somebody must know. Thanks again.

Hello all. Ok I took the advise of Mr. P and picked up a NGK AFX wideband for my truck. Was hoping to play with autotune. Install was pretty straight forward. Cut and re spice the o2 sensor connector after running wires through firewall. Powered the 12v from the SEO connector on the MBEC (up by the brake pedal). Changed corresponding 10a fuse under hood to a 4 amp. grounded to firewall Did the free air calibration for about 10 minutes. installed, went for drive, worked beautifully. After maybe 10kms. (okay that about 6 miles to you guys) went home and parked it for night. Next morning I hooked up the analog output wires to ext1 of my efilive vs and load the appropriate pids per the autotune tuturial. (using NGK pids). I am not 100% clear on how to wire the anolog output of the AFX. After much research with no clear answers, I wired both yellow and brown to the ext1 connector of the V2 handheld. ****the AFX instructions say to make sure this brown anaolog ground wire is grounded to same ground as the 2 black system grounds? But since the EFILIVE handheld needs an analog ground, I wired it there instead. Should I have also jumpered the brown analog ground wire to the chassis ground as well as the connecting it to the handheld? Anyway, something screwed up when I started the truck with the wideband installed for the second time (after only 6 mile drive at pretty much stoich) while monitoring output on my laptop. This is how it went. Wideband did it countdown, started truck. efilive said AFR of 10 (no idea if this was right for cold start) , wideband said 14.5, then read sen4 error. Disconnected anaolog outputs from handheld and retried. AFX reads 14.5 for a few seconds then goes to SEN4. Checked wiring. changed ground position for piece of mind, attempted to free air calibrate sensor again. Only reads Sen4. Called NGK and got few if any real answers other than obvious, check your wiring, maybe sensor failed. NGK could also not answer my question about the brown analog output gournd wire. Told me to check with EFILIVE. I know wideband 02 sensors are delicate measuring devices, but could I really have screwed it after a 6 mile drive Edit: The sensor is Ok. I tested with a brand new one tonight and same result. I will completely yank out the harness and see if I can find anything........ To Summarize my questions. 1) opinions on wideband sensore failure? I got a bad one? I hooked the handheld up incorrectly and toasted it? Bung is welded in at the 4 or 5 o'clock position as there was not way to get it in the top half of the pipe. condensation damage from 1 evening??? Shut up Jay and go buy a new sensor, that's the nature of the beast?? ( I will if this is the way it goes....... just don't want to throw $150 at a 10minute old system until I exhaust the obvious. 2) When you wire AFX to EFIlive does the brown analog ground wire go directly to the handheld ext1 pin, or the chassis ground, or to both? 3) When monitoring your wideband with EFIlive, I pick a gauge on dashboard to change to AFR (wideband). under properties I can select from my selected pid's. DO I want to watch. Wideband AFR 1- NGK AFX (afr) OR Wideband AFR 1-NGK AFX (v) . I assumed (afr). Thanks in advance for any input you may have. Jay If anyone says 'use the search button' , rest assured I ALWAYS search high and low for an answer before I post. If I missed it, EXCUSE me.

Thanks for the input people. I already pinned the crank. "did they do any main drum high-RPM oil control mods, etc"- I doubt it. I got very little out of the shop regarding the torque converter. I assumed part of the stal chioce. was for reliablilty, I had read, and started to believe about putting the base pressues back to stock. I only did this for 1/2 shift, should I do it for the rest of them? I guess I need a tune then, because if you say tow haul should slow me down, it is the opposite. I consistently ran .1-.2 better with the two haul button on. The tow haul button only affects shifts right? the engine parameters are unchanged correct? If my tow haul parameters raise shift points, increase line pressure, etc. why wouldn't it be faster? I don't haul anyting heavy, I could probably do without a haul button, but If i can program normal shifts for daily driving, then have the tow haul button set up for best e.t. wouldn't that be the best way? i wish I could tell you more with the tranny. When I suggested supplying my own, they said sure, but any problems you have with it, we have to charge you to fix. If you use "our guys' converter we will cover all the costs of fixing replacing it. Incidentally, After I first picked it up. the torque lock up would stick on when it got warm. they fixed it n/c, here's is the items on the tanny invoice. Gm 4l65E trans overhaul 2600 stall torque converter deluxe overhaul kit boost valve/ sleeve, high performance, sungear shell Force motor Transgo stage 2 shift kit fluids, labor, etc. He also told me that the 'hd clutch pack" they installed increases number of clutch plates sigificantly because the 65e already had more plates than the older 60's, so mine has 7? Mr. P. I know, I know, you keep urging me to get a wide band. I will one day, but this 12 second truck project is 1 of many I have on the go and I want to have time to dedicate to learning it before I keep throwing money at it and having the wide band sit on the shelf while other projects take up time. Anybody ever hear of a '66 yenko stinger? (yes I think corvairs are lame as well, but this was another of my father's old treasures) It had the Crown conversion, Mid engine set up with 302 chevy in back seat. the wrenches gotta start spinning on that now.... I hope the SSS doesn't need much more to get a 12.99!!

Is this possible? A good idea? A bad idea? Thougths please. Can I use the EFI live scan tool DVT tab to command the fans 'on' prior to a 1/4 mile run to suck as much air through the rad/ intercooler while | am lining up to run, then switch them off right before it is my turn? I assume alternator drag with them commanded on is high enough to lower e.t and you would want them off for the run. I am also assuming that once switched off, the battery level will not have dropped and the alternator will not be working to recharge the battery and its drag on the engine would be nil. Is this a common practice? or Am I way out to lunch with this idea? thanks in advance for any input. Jay

Thanks for the tips guys. Yes, I have the radix, dynatech longtube w hi flow, magnaflow cat back, volant cai-no scoop, built tranny, i honestly would probably never tried launching just above idle. I understand how this could work well with the 'flashing' you describe. The tranny shop who built my tranny strongly urged me to stay at 2600 not 2800 for a daily driver. I did not want to argue with them as I don't know trannies like I know engines. Brand of converter. when I discussed different brands, they said they would use 'their guy' for the converter, so I do not know specifics of it. I really like the way it drives/ shifts, so I am not complaining at all about the tranny build. The guys at the shop are really good to me. Ok for 60ft times. the printer at the srip was using an ink cartridge from 1998 and I can barely make it out. I will say the AWD at 60ft is really fun next to faster cars while then attempt to chase you down every run!! best run was: Reaction time: 17minutes. ok not really but I gotta get better at this!! .571 60ft 1.906 330: 5.552 1/8: 8.618 mph:79.63 1000:11.319 1/4:13.613 mph:98.44 this was with the tow haul button. Stock maggie tune, other than I copied pasted the stock 1-2 base pressue table from the stock tune to soften shifts. Engine still showed misfires above 2400rpm that has since been resolved with crank re learn. but i don't think these false misfires reduced power. Since this run. I have planed for a return trip this year with the following additions: E fan conversion. Put 1-2 base pressue back to maggie tune level. pinned crank 3' pully down from 3.3 Beltech 2/2 drop. once I get the 3.00 pulley on, I'll get a tune done. I am asking alot (over 1/2 second) from the pulley and tune, but now that I have a better idea how to launch, that should help to. I won't waste money tryin to improve the already good brakes. thanks guys Jay

Hello, In my quest to get my truck into the 12's, I am trying to finalze my set up prior to my next dragstrip trip. Last time I was there. 13.6. with a built tranny with a 2600 stall. When I would go to launch the truck, I could not get the rpm's much past 2000 without the truck 'creaping' on the brakes. (brakes mashed to the floor) i have 14 oversized rotors all around. Could better pads provide better holding force at the line, thus allowing me to get the engine closer to its stall speed, thus lowering my E.T? thanks Jay

Thanks guys, The tensioner I got from magnacharger could be 'HD' it is much beefier than the one that came stock with the kit. It comes around the front of the belt rather than behind it like the stock magnacharger tensioner. The belt I am running is the gatorback 4061115 (6pk2830). I tried it again last night and I think it is going away. perhaps there is some mold release on these rubber belts that had to be scrubbed off? Jay

Hello, I searched aroung and could not find any information on Magnacharger belt slippage. All posts were related to pro charger. Here is what I notice. I pin my truck from a stop. Before every shift at high rpm's, the lights dim (easily noticed at night) . I assume I am experiencing belt slippage. I have pinned the crank I am running the stock 3.3 pulley with plans for a 3.00 to go on next week or so. when I ordered the pullery from magnacharger the guy also sold me the 'upgraded tensioner'. With the upgraded tensioner and new 160am alternator and stock 3.3 pully, I had minor belt sqeak at idle and the light dimming issue. Purchased a belt 1 size smaller. It is a goodyear gatorback with the funny groove pattern. No more sqeak at idle, Belt is extremely tight which I figured would be fine once I put the 3.00pulley on it. Lights still dim at peak rpm's when hammering on it. Truck has 100,000 miles on it. do the crank pulley grooves wear with time and allow slippage with applications such as this? Anyone else experiece this? I will try installing the stock magnacharger pulley, but I doubt that will help, it seems to have less tension than the new one. Thanks in advance for any help Jay

SOLVED!!! Ok, it has been a while but I just solved this p0300 issue!!! II researched so many forum posts about po300 but most of them never followed up with the eventual solution, so I am finishing off this mystery. Ok after scratching my head thinking it could be a wear issue on a motor with 100,000 miles, I had heard weak valvesprings can cause this. My Mechanic friend asked his GM buddies and they agreed it was a good place to look next. Went for a drive with the Head tech at another reputable dealer and he also agreed that he would look there next to. BUT....... another tech there asked if I had considered gummed up lifters that aren't bleading down fast enough when the misfires begin to occur at 2400rpm (max oil pressure begins). I didn't like this very logical idea. The two techs said go for springs first, if not solved, add tranny fluid to crankcase and run it to try and de sludge it. So thankfully I get dealer cost on the parts. Only $200 for springs, valve stem oil/ shim. (that;s with $60 wasted on new rocker cover "gaskets', which I discover are rubber o-ring types seals that can probably be re used a dozen times? While swapping springs, I wanted to measure the cam lift on all the valves to rule out a worn cam (but come on! this isn't the 80's where cams were rounding off in huge numbers at GM- And its was a roller cam!) I did not measure the lift as I was alone and it would have added some much more time to the job. With springs changed. Misfire counts......... Exactly the same!!!! darn!!! So i sat and thought, I was gonna add tranny fluid to crank to address sludge, but I know this engine is clean, I've had the pan off, the rocker covers off, Looked everywhere when I had top end apart. It had regular oil changes and looked like it. Hell, I'll do the CASE relearn with EFI live just for kicks. All the gm techs said this wouldn't do it, but I argued that the numbers used in CASE are a part of the misfire calc. they agreed but said there is no reason to do it. Well, i thought some more. my father purchased this truck from a dealer as a demo. Who is to say they didn't swap the ecu early in the truck's life and never addressed the case? Well 2 minutes later ZERO MISFIRES ACROSS THE BOARD!!!!!! (at all rpm's!!)) Well as my first real head scratcher for a p0300, I must say I am sofa king proud of myself, even if dumb luck played a role!!! Thanks for the help guys!!

Yes, sorry I meant Maf not map I'll check wiring, Thanks Jay

Thanks retired99. I wasn't really worrying about the software. I was more keen to use it as a tool in order to help diagnos the problem area. The problem was the same when truck was all stock, with stock tune, so I am not blaming the tune. I swapped the plugs out of #6 to see if it followed the plug. It did not. So this means that cylinder 6 has, new injector, new plug wire, new plugs, swapped out stock coil with know good one, new intake manifold gaskets, new exhaust gaskets, cleaned map. My next step will probably be new ox sensors. Perhaps just a swap from bank to bank first to get a positive diagnosis of the issue. Can someone confirm that it is only the front o2 sensors that I should be worried about. Can faulty rear 02's do the same? After that I was going to start looking at the wiring harness under the hood for kinked and possible damaged wires. Before I do all this 2 more questions: NGK plugs vs delco's. I have surfed the web for months and only found 1 reference to ngk's causing a p0300, that went away with installation of delco's.f WHAT SHOULD GAP be??? Can you adjust the gap on these fancy iridium plugs the same way you can one old schoo ones? I never have in the past, as I never need to. My Ngk's are like new. I hate to spend money on plugs because " I read it somewhere on the internet, so it must be true..." Anyone think this is hogwash or worth the price of a set of plugs to test? EfiLive cylinder test- A newbie like me was so excited to use this function when I got the software. Problem is, I updated my EFiLive before I got a chance to use it. I can't find it in the new version, and understand they took it out. I guess I will do it manually. I want to see if #6 is indeed as healthy as the others. I hear no ticking, knocking (other than cold start piston slap of these trucks), valve train noise, etc. I pulled a 13.6 last fall, which I guess is feasible with 1 weak cylinder. So can someone please confirm, that to do this test manually, I simply start logging RPM, then go to DVT control and turn off each cylinder 1 at a time. Ie. start logging, wait 10 secs to steady idle, shut off cylinder 1 for 10 seconds, wait 10 secs for steady idle, shut off cylinder 2 for 10 seconds, etc. Then I just look at the log and see how much the rpm dropped for each corresponding cylinder? :Like it says here: http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?14816-Unable-to-find-the-Cylinder-balance-test-in-v7.5 "You have to do it manually likethis: - start logging, - on DVT tab, click each injector disable button one at a time, waiting say 3 seconds between each (as you click an injector disable button, it will enable the previous injector and disable the new one), when you clicked all of them click the enable all button; - stop the log and view it in 3 second slices looking at RPM. " Do I have to increase the idle speed to do this?How using RPM, IAC, or ETC? Can someone please explain those options? mainly RPM? I understand controlling idle by IA(idle air control valve), and ETC(electronic throttle control), but RPM? what does this stand for? Idle is measured in rpm, revolutions per minute, so I don't understand how you control idle using revolutions per minute.... It must stand for something else. thanks Jay Jay

It occured to me ages ago. While I was running the maggie through the stock cats.... But I installed brand new dynatech hi flow cats about a month after the maggie. That's why I ended up having only 1 new o2 sensor ( couldn't get original out to swap to dynatech cats) so its not cats. I will try swapping plugs tonight, but this is the second set of plugs with the same symtom (although I can't confirm which cylinder was missing when the truck was stock as I didn't have efilive. Should I clear fuel trims before logging again? Or swap plugs, log, clear trims, re-log? Keep in mind I don't think the fuel trims have been cleared since we had a big change in climate here over the last few weeks. (Toronto, Cold, really cold, cold, warm, cold, warm, cold, cold. etc. Now we are finally getting daytime temps in the 60's. Truck may have made its LTFT and STFT when it was below zero. How long do they take to adjust to seasonal weather changes? As for the wideband. Yes I have read all about the virtues of them and how oems are starting to use them. BUT let's slow down a little!!! I'm an struggling to treadwater in the efilive kiddy pool, you want me to jump in head first with a wideband?? Maybe in a little while, when I feel I need one to FURTHER my tune. I am not running justins tune yet. I didn't want to bug him with log files that were potentially corrupted or have him tune a truck with a random misfire. It is the stock Maggie tune. The ony changes I made were to copy paste the trans base pressue table for 1-2 from the stock tune to the maggie tune to soften up the shifts with my built tranny. Oh and I activated the Efans when I installed them. When the day comes for a wideband, I may pick up one of these, as I have worked with this guy on bike stuff and he seems very knowledgable. I can then use the wideband in my bike/ snowmobile projects. http://www.ecotrons....mbda_Meter.html I'll swap plugs and see if it moves. Other than that any other ideas? What would case my fuel trims to be adding 5-6%? If the maggie tune is 'off' would this cause it? Is it a result of a poorly calibrated maf table? Ie. more air is entering then engine than the maf thinks? Jay

Thanks for the input Mr. P. Here are some answers to your questions. The misfire is not noticable. I only know it is happening when either EFIlive log is telling me its happening, or I see the MIL flashing. Map has been cleaned a few times. no change. Plugs, wires, were new with blower. I already swapped wires. problem stayed with #6. I will try swapping the new plugs around. At least I can have an old school look at them.... but I don't think that will do it. I'll try. Ltft and Stft. Ok I know what they are, and what they do, I have read Greg Banish's book Engine Management Advanced Tuning but I am still confused about reviewing my fuel trims. Are you looking for a average % as a number? My logs for LTFT show them bank 1 and 2 between 5-6% (average). what does that mean? I never logged stft. Is logging how I find out the trims? Or are they stored in the ECU and I have to upload them?? Please correct me if I am wrong. STFT are created by the ECU with driving cycles. They are deleted/ reset with clear engine codes, or battery disconect for long period of time. LTFT are part of the tune? or are these generated by the ECU as well? I have had the battery disconected for extended periods many times while I wrenched on the truck. So the po300 cares less about stft. ? I know stuff was reset because I could tell the adaptive shift was cleared and it shifted differently for 100km's everytime I re connected the battery. Here's a screen shot of my log file that I paused when I saw a spike in cylinder #6 misfire counts. Not sure if it helps or not, at least it made me open a photobucket account. O2 sensors- Bank 1 (drivers side usa right?) front o2 is new, rear original Bank2 (pass side uas right? side I'm having #6 misfire with- Bot sensors original. In the log file. I don't see any obvious problems with oz sensor voltages, but I don't really know what I'm looking at. thanks Jay

Hello all. (jeez sorry this is so long, I just don't want to leave out any info) If this is posted in the wrong section sorry. Yes of course I used the search. On this and many other sites for the last few months. I need help resolving po300 codes. I'll try to give those willing to help me out as much info as I can without rambling on. Here is goes: Father passed Feb. 10- My mother gave me his SSS with just under 100k on it. Said drive it home from Fla and its yours. (not the nicest way to receive such a nice gift- I'd rather not have received it, but I absolutely love it.) 2003 bone stock SSS - with just under 100k. My first experience with this truck- driving home from Florida (back to the great white north) At cruise speed. would flash mil every 1/2 to an hour of driving. read code po300. since I was about to swap out a bunch of stuff that would hopefully have resolved this, I didn't really do much about it. This problem has never gone away and is very consistent regardless of fuel choice, weather, etc. At hwy speed (about 75mph) low man press. 'cruising'. I get misfire. Changed plugs and wires. Installed magnacharger. (so all injectors are new, as is the fuel filter, intake gaskets, cleaned stock map, etc) Installed dynatech hi flow cats- magnacharger cat back. (replaced front drivers side O2- because I couldn't get old one out- THE 3 REMAINING 02 are original from what I can tell) No exhaust leaks. The rest of the mods wouldn't really effect po300, but I'll list 'em in case I'm wrong. built tranny, 2600 stall, shift kit, etc. e fan conversion w BB harness, Volant CAI. 160am alternator, boost gauge, or maybe the window tinting is the problem ....hehe etc. I am totally new with EFI live, so bear with me. I logged the cylinder misfires and found #6 to be misfiring way more than others. Swapped coil pack with #4 coil. Misfire remains in #6 (pre dominantly) I do not know what to look for with logged data. I am not looking for a problem with the magnacharger tune, because the problem existed with stock tune/truck. I am looking for a fault somewhere. BUT... I don't know what I'm looking for...... I simply used a pid list that justin at bb emailed me a while ago to prepare for a tune/ log session. Plus the cylinder misfire pids. I have read and read about this. I do not want to change bank 2 o2 sensors on a suspicion. (i don't like the dart board mechanic approach, even though I know sometimes darts must be tossed) with Maggie install, intake gaskets where changed. heads never came off, but I never saw a reason, no signs of bad head gaskets. I read in this post http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/41726-im-missfireing-and-getting-codes/page__p__483107__hl__po300__fromsearch__1 that drive line vibrations can cause po300????? My father had put SSBC oversized rotors on it, and they seem fine. I do not feel any vibration really. Its a truck, with mud snows on it, doesn't drive like a caddy, but its the best driving p/u I've ever owned. I also don't feel any miss in the engine with the misfire count starts hitting. I don't have any reason to think the drive shaft bad either. But I will ask my father's best friend what kind of history the truck had during their weekend escapades under any influences..... haha How accurate are the o2 sensor tests? I know EFI live will 'test them' (actually from what I understand it doesn't test them, it displays the results of the pcm's tests?) Can a bad/ weak/ worn 02 sensor do this? Is there a way to tell short of swapping them left bank to right bank to see if misfire follows o2 sensors? ( someone please tell me this is not necessary, I don't like trying to get those buggers out...haha) I have attempted to attach a log file. I have never done this, please let me know if it does not work. Also the log may be totally useless. Really, I told you, I'm a real efilive noob!!! If someone has a suggestion for other pids to log that may help me please let me know. Any other ideas I am open to. My aim is to get this truck to 12.99 et. My dad and | aways loved the awd gmc syclone back in the 90's and when he got this truck I told him it was time we built our own full size version. I'm almost there, but I want to get rid of thispo300 before I swap the pulley to a 3.0 and hit up Blackbear for a tune. Thanks in advance for any input. Jay MisfireFindmay1B.efi