eberhama
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Posts posted by eberhama
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Another FYI...all those caps are re-pops, not oem
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I know the 05 ups have a different plug thats small compared to the '04 down one.
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my '06 sierra leaks on the pass. side. It comes in around the windshield, because the dummy who put the windshield in(me) f'd up the install. It pools in the headliner, then runs down the pass. side a-pillar, and soaks the carpet. I don't know what else yours would be, there really isn't any other good spots for water to come in, unless something has been drilled/poked/rusted through your cab.
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If that has a turbo
I see it has a blow off valve and a boost gauge, but I'm not seeing a turbo. Am I missing it??
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Only $18k for this dream machine... 1 of none joint prototype between GM and the ricer parts isle at AutoZone.
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Ahhh...you guys are so fussy. Yeah the grill/headlight combo needs to hit the dumpster, but the rest would make a good driver truck. You wouldn't have to worry about racking up miles, or otherwise devaluing it. You want to see a sad SS? Here is the lost soul brother to my avatar pic(my truck before paint). It was an arrival blue SS, but had a white cab that was jammed red, and the VIN pop riveted on, AND it was a repo, not a salvage, so someone had a loan on this bad boy. Bonus points: it has the ever popular upside down SS badge on the tailgate
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The key fobs are numbered #1 and #2(although I think you can program up to 5 for 1 car) and are paired to the memory settings( if so equipped). I have both memory settings the same so I'm not sure on that part. It's just as easy to program as you read, takes about 2 minutes to do.
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#1 no, rear brakes are totally different from fronts.
#2 any 05 up Sierra/silverado with rear drums, or 07 up full size suv
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I think they were also available as a part of the "tow package" separate from the SS and v-max, but I've never seen one so equipped. All your other research looks correct. If your buying on from a salvage yard, make sure to get a pic. Lots of places have them mis-inventoried, thinking tow hitch = tow package. Good news is, they never go bad, and fit very few trucks, so they are reasonably priced usually.
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It's pretty easy. Pop the lens off, clipped in 6 places. Zero out the needles, it help to put a piece of masking tape on the face and mark where the needle is pointing for reference. Pry up gently on the needles, using a forked tool of your preference. I use my hands, but whatever works for you. Then swap the overlays and reverse the process. Maybe snap a pic of the gauges in operation before hand, just to make sure they read about the same when your done. No big deal to adjust them if they're off a little, just some extra headache.
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Also, CJ2 is the auto temp option code. I'm wondering if maybe not having a signal from the sensor is screwing things up. Maybe making it go into some weird default mode?
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The auto and manual temp controls don't interchange. Usually actuators don't fail in pairs. You would generally have one side working fine, and the would be wonky. The one actuator is above the passengers feet, near the edge of the console, can be changed in a few minutes if you know what you're doing. The other is on top of the heater box kind of behind the passenger airbag. It's a bastard to even see it, and an all day project to change it. You'll want to be 100% sure that's your problem before you open that can of worms.
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Did the system ever work correctly? There are 4 motors under the dash. 1 for fresh air/recirculate, 1 for mode selection, and one for each side for temp control. You could try a new control, or look up the re-learn procedure for the climate control online. Doesn't require tools. Sometime the blend doors "forget" what position they're in. They're telling the control head they're all the way open, when in reality, they're only half open.
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What 502 only makes 350 horsepower?
The original 454 made 230 horse, if this one's wheezing through the stock intake and exhaust, that could be right.
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What's it doing or not doing?
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Good lord people this is a 6+ year old thread!! stop trying to bring this zombie back to life!!
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The green plug is for XM/Onstar, has nothing to do with bose. The white plug does all the normal radio functions. I agree that you having 2 dead amps would be slim to none. Do you know anyone with a similar truck/radio you could swap in to check?
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If the board they used to do the headliner was out of another truck, it was probably not optioned for it. The harness is hot glued to the board, and a pain to swap, so they probably just left it. I think it only uses that sensor in the "Auto" mode. I've had various auto temp trucks for 7-8 years now, and I've never used the auto setting.
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What are you meaning by "Bose" plug? I always understood that if the radio worked but was quiet(no amplification) = dead amp, no sound at all(no signal) = head unit problem.
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Open the remotes and clean the contacts between the rubber part and the circuit board. They get dirty and loose connectivity, esp. on the most used button (unlkock).
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There was one on eBay a while back just like this one only red. 99 SC/sb stepside 2500 with the same 400ss decal. They said it was a grey market import from Mexico, and said it wasn't able to be registered in the us. Wonder if it was a GM of Mexico thing, or a south of the border dealer thing??
*Eta* I guess it was a thing...from the Silverado as way back machine http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/17914-400-ss-silverado/
WTB: 1 chrome SS wheel
in For Sale/ Wanted
Posted
Looking for 1 wheel. Doesn't need to be 100% perfect, decent driver quality is fine. One of mine is a rep, want to swap it out when I swap tires in the near future. Let me know what you've got. I'm in moorhead mn 56560