xr4tic
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Posts posted by xr4tic
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a quick google search shows that you're not alone, seems like everyone recommends talking to a Racetronix dealer instead. Even their website says to talk to a dealer if you want to call "If you require phone sales/support please visit our main web page racetronix.com to locate a dealer near you"
It's an older post, but looks like there are lots of reputable dealers out there - http://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-injection/1329149-who-sells-racetronix-products.html
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Did you ever get the pump installed or verify you got the right wiring harness for it?
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The rebuild was very straight forward and easy!!! Mostly do to having rebuild a 5sp VW transaxle i've rebuilt multiple times. But regardless its simple. The hardest part was getting the big c-clip/snap ring on and off through the case.
I did not replace the Big bearing on the input/rear output shaft. I didn't have the bearing tool and did not want to wait for one to come in the mail/ it was late and no where locally had one.
I just did this, replacing all the bearings, and I wouldn't say it's easy, unless you have the proper tools, which I didn't. If you don't do the bearings it's easy, but then it's not a rebuild is it?
I bought all the stuff from APW, here's the list:
1 x NP241 NP243 NP246 NP244 NP261 NP263 NP149 NP144 TRANSFER CASE CHAIN BORG-WARNER HV072 NEW
1 x NP149 NV149 TRANSFER CASE REBUILD KIT FITS ALL WHEEL DRIVE '01-'07 GM TRUCKS & SUV'S
1 x NP149 NP246 NP261 NP263 TRANSFER CASE SAVER: PUMP PLATE KIT BY SONNAX
1 x NP149 NV149 TRANSFER CASE PUMP FITS ALL WHEEL DRIVE '01-'07 GM TRUCKS & SUV'S (29074)
1 x NP149 NV149 TRANSFER CASE FILTER FITS ALL WHEEL DRIVE '01-'07 GM (29747)
1 x NP246 NP149 NP136 NP208 NP231 NP241 NP261 NP263 MUNCIE SUPER T10 TRANSMISSION & TRANSFER CASE EXTENSION HOUSING BUSHING (WT297-62
Some notes from my rebuild:
I used AutoCraft Lock Ring Pliers from Advance Auto Parts to remove the retainer ring
I used a bearing puller from Harbor Freight, it barely fit, and messed up the edges of the reluctor wheel. I'm hoping it's not bad enough to cause an issue. If you decide to go this route, I would recommend buying a new reluctor wheel from APW ($28)
The new pump probably wasn't needed, but I got it anyways, I didn't know what to expect.
The Sonnax pump saver is a nice kit, but I didn't read the instructions in time, you have to pull the pump apart but I had already assembled the new pump onto the shaft and wasn't going to remove the bearing again. I ended up buying the BRNY plate and using that.
The tail housing bushing was an absolute &^%$^#@ to remove and replace.
I had to use a dremel to cut the old needle bearing out of the back case.
There's another needle bearing inside the shaft, I didn't even bother trying to remove it.
The factory bearings had a dust seal in them, the Koyo bearings don't, I hope they're OK without it.
APW sells a new rear magnesium housing, with the bushing and needle bearing already in it. Dorman makes an aluminum replacement as well, but I've heard issues with the speed sensor not fitting/sealing properly. I don't know if the APW housing has that issue.
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The PCM controlls the compressor, so if you have a bad idle or low A/C pressure, it won't turn it on.
Diagram:
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/Bluegorilla/2011-06-08_235314_1227298.gif
I'd suggest fixing your idle issue first, removing the cats should have no effect on it. Sounds like you might have a vacuum leak or bad spark plugs. The original spark gap for our trucks was soemthing like .055 but was later revised to .040.
I noticed a much smoother idle and better running when I replaced my fairly new .055 plugs with .040 plugs.
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Will the injectors drop right in (with PCM tuning) or do they need adapters of any kind?
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I got the 3/4 DJM kit from Tony, the rear shackle has 2 spots to select a 3" or 4" drop, the front can be adjusted by cranking the keys. I noticed about a 2.5" drop in the front with the keys in the same position before I did the drop.
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Can you list everything that comes with it? I see a picture of a cam and other boxes of stuff but that weren't listed.
Would I need anything else to install or just a tune?
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The OBX non-catted headers have a small ~8" resonator in place of the cats, so I'm not sure how you tell a catted version apart from a cat version, OBX uses the same picture for both versions.
I'm in the northern Metro Detroit area. If I get a chance, I can make a sound clip, it's still pretty quiet. I would like it to be a little louder but I'm afraid of making it too loud.
I've had good success adding bullet resonators to my other cars to help tone down the exhaust and reduce drone.
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What do you have after the headers?
I have OBX headers without cats, stock exhaust after them, and have no drone.
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I have the OBX headers, the nice thing about them is they come with all the piping between the headers and the muffler, no fabrication or extra piping needed.
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These are for stock calipers?
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For the guys that bought one of these, how was the quality? Any issues?
I'm in need of a new bumper and it's currently priced at $33.66
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Are you willing to ship at all?
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I got a blackbear mail order tune. At first I only had an intake and electric fan conversion. I then added headers and a shift kit and got it re-tuned for no charge (+ shipping)
I'm sure a live tune would be better, but for such light mods, will you really see a big difference? Probably not.
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Any progress on a sound clip? I just installed some OBX headers with no cats, still have the factory exhaust.
I was hoping the headers would give the exhaust a better sound, but it seems the factory muffler is pretty good at muffling lol.
I want something that is mostly quiet while putting around but gets loud under WOT.
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So let me get this straight. with the parts stated above, the full tbss manifold swap will be achieved? For my 03 SS, all I need to do is put in a vette regulator and ill be set for returnless style? I had read it was a vette fuel filter....? and what exactly is the 3/8" hose for....
Don't forget a complete retune. A corvette regulator does not have the vacuum reference port like our 03's would have, so it will maintain a constant fuel pressure and the PCM fuel tables will need to be adjusted appropriately.
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I recently installed a set of OBX headers and have no complaints so far. The only issues I had would have been issues with any header install: Broken dipstick tube, broken exhaust manifold bolt, broken exhaust flange bolts, broken exhaust clamp, and O2 sensors that wouldn't come out.
The two main knocks against OBX are the header hump spark plug wire clearance, solved with a zip strip, or the supposedly "too small" 2.5" collector, but several people have run big power with OBX headers with no complaints.
If you're on a budget, consider the OBX (~$600), if you don't mind spending the money or want to have cats, get the ARH.
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Looking forward to the results.
Where did you get the carbon fiber radiator cover?
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Thanks guys, you've confirmed what I was kind of thinking.
Sounds like I'd be better off having a set of 317 heads ported and maybe milled a bit, even a set of 243s would push the CR to ~11:1
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I've been researching ported heads, and I've seen a couple of ported 243 heads pop up in classifieds, but they've all been milled.
I plan on keeping my truck NA and I use my truck like a truck, which means it needs to be able to haul and tow.
What's the highest CR I can get away with on pump gas (93 octane, but ideally be able to run 91 octane if I'm out of state hauling something)
Bonus points if someone can tell me the head cc size to achieve that CR.
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You ruled out the tune, but you'll need a tune to take advantage of any of the mods you add - headers, cams, heads, intake manifold/TB
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Sounds like a bad temp sensor. When the engine is cold, the A/F ratio needs to be richer and then leans out once warmed up. If the temp sensor is giving a cold reading when the engine is warmed up, it will run too rich and could stutter/pop/lose power.
The intake temp sensor on some cars can effect the A/F ratio as well.
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EV1/EV6/USCAR are codes for the injector bodies
http://www.rmaperformance.com/tags/ev14/
Newer EV6 injectors have the same connectors as USCAR, but I think the older EV6 can be used with EV1 style connectors.
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I'm sure the ARH headers are very nice, but they are almost $1000 more than the OBX. For that money you could get a cam, intake, and tune with the only downside being a zip-tie to hold a spark plug wire out of the way
For those of us on a budget, it's pretty much a no-brainer.
The REDSLED... Build #2
in Builds
Posted
After reading your issues, and several other people with the same issues, I just bought the pump off of Amazon. It's made by Walbro, Racetronix just resells it as theirs, It was only a couple bucks more, but at least I have someone to contact if I have issues.
I wanted to do the wiring harness, but checking into it, it looks like the 99-03 truck kit uses the stock square 4 pin connector, which has a max amp rating of 14 Amps. The 255 Walbro can pull over 14amps, but it's at 100+ psi. If you wanted to upgrade to an Aeromotive 340 later, it pulls 14 amps at just ~50psi, which would be an issue.
They have kits that replace the square connector, but it uses a wiring harness with different connectors .
So the way I see it, what's the point of upgrading the wiring, if you're still using the lower amperage bulkhead connector? For $20 more you can get the kit to upgrade that part, but it's not compatible with the harness you got, you'd have to change out the ends. It sucks that they didn't tell you any of this.