synyster_SS

The TCC apply solenoid is the one pushed into the oil pump, it's part of the wiring harness. #396 is the TCC PWM solenoid, that view is from the top of the valve body. I rebuilt my transmission last year with a kit from Monster Transmission (never again), and installed a 3000rpm Circle D torque converter at the same time. I was having a somewhat similar issue as yours, my truck wasn't going into lockup as soon as the outside ambient temperature was warm. The truck was fine all winter long, but as soon as spring hit, the trans started acting up. As long as the trans fluid was cold, the TCC would apply as normal. As soon as the trans temp hit 130-140deg F, the TCC would not lock on the highway at all. It turns out that Monster Transmission supplied the wrong TCC PWM solenoid.. comparing the incorrect solenoid with the proper OEM solenoid that I installed two weekends ago, the incorrect solenoid had much larger mesh screens/exhausts. Once the trans fluid became warm/hot, the solenoid just couldn't keep the TCC engaged, it was seeing a 300-500rpm slip on the highway and would throw a P0894 if driven for long enough like that. I swapped out the TCC PWM solenoid, the TCC apply solenoid/wiring harness, and the pressure control solenoid just for good measure, my truck has been as good as gold since. Hope that helps!

I have a Circle D 278mm 3000rpm stall in my truck, I was on a bit of a budget.. it's a great torque converter for the money IMO. At first, how the truck drove with the 3000 stall caught me off guard, I wasn't sure if I liked how different it was. Now that I'm used to it, I love how the truck drives. I wouldn't hesitate to get another torque converter from Circle D, Chris has awesome customer service and a great product.

Gavin, what are you lowered with to achieve 4/6? The CV axles definitely need to be extended, not shortened. To confirm my suspicions, I lifted the truck off of the ground on my hoist, ensured the broken spider assembly was inside of the tripot housing with the bottom bearing facing straight down, and then lowered the truck back onto the ground. The bearing was hanging outside of the tripot, hence how easily both CV axles grenaded.

My 2005 AWD SS has been lowered 3/4 with spindles and purple keys up front for 1.5 years now with no issues, I ran the same setup on my old 2006 Sierra Z71 for 2-3 years with no issues either. The Sierra always aligned better than the SS did; with the SS, the best camber I could achieve on either side at my desired ride height was -1.5deg.. made for awesome handling, but the insides of my tires didn't like it so much. The front fenders sit at 32" off of the ground, so it's not super slammed either. Just this past Saturday, I installed new stock upper control arms with Belltech camber correction bushings (they have an offset hole), so I could finally get the camber within spec. On my subsequent test drive, I was beating on the truck a little bit, and took a fast corner with a bit of a dip in it. I heard a loud bang and immediately pulled over, I thought my exhaust manifold had fallen off haha. Took a look under the truck, my driver side CV axle snapped at the inner joint! I figured that I had spun the tire, caught traction, and snapped the axle. I had two spare CV axles from my old Sierra laying around, so I limped the truck back to the shop, and swapped the new CV axle in. I babied the truck around the block as I wasn't sure how the new axle would fare, and it didn't sound super happy so I decided to make another lap around the block. Well, coming up a hill at 50kph, the truck lightly downshifted from 3rd to 2nd, and snapped the CV axle I just installed! I'm going to unbolt the passenger side CV axle from the inner axle shaft, lower the truck back onto the ground, and compress the CV axle outwards to see how much distance is present between the CV and axle shaft. I'm hoping that a spacer, or lengthened CV axles will be the answer to my problem! My question for the guys who are lowered 3/4 is, have you run into this? The bearings on the spider assemblies were totally destroyed, I'm thinking that due to the angle of the CV's and my now corrected camber (having the top of the wheel further outwards than before), when the bearings reach the bottom of the tripot housing, they are pulled outside of the housing and easily susceptible to damage! The thing that floors me is that there are AWD trucks that sit even lower than mine, Brian's (2BFAST) old truck comes to mind, with no apparent CV issues, unless they just haven't been posted. An extensive google search didn't really net me any good answers either! Sorry for the long post, kudos to you if you've read through the whole thing!

Oh awesome!! I'll have to hit up Norcal for that kit ASAP!

No problem Art! You live in a great climate too, that helps! Mine is a winter driven pig haha, it's starting to show it's age a little! That Belltech camber kit is next on my list.. my caster is within spec, but the best I can do for camber is -1.5deg on both sides. Lol. I hope the Belltech kit will allow enough adjustment to get close to nominal! I'm a tech and do all of my own work as well, I'm looking forward to getting the alignment where it should be!

Art, your truck is beyond clean.. killer stance, it sits perfect. A 3/4 drop looks just perfect on these trucks IMO, mine is set up very similar to yours. Spindles/purple keys up front, and shackles/hangers out back. I went with a set of front/rear Hotchkis sway bars, and a pair of helper air bags in the rear as I didn't want to notch it.

Sprayed99 is right on the money, it has nothing to do with 4th gear.. the TCC only locks up when certain requirements are met. Have the truck scanned for DTC's, and go from there.

I'd be paying attention to the coolant related and torque converter clutch DTC's. If your truck is thinking it's stuck in open loop because the engine coolant isn't getting up to operating temperature, it's going to shift like a bag of shit. Open loop means it's running off of a pre-determined set of tables, the PCM isn't using feedback from the O2 sensors. Hence why you are getting O2 sensor codes. Don't throw parts at it, electrical diagnosis to figure out your problems are going to be your best bet. Hope that helps!

Agree with Blown ^^^^ I'd check for possible DTC's with a scan tool, there might be a couple set for electrical faults. Do like Blown said, pull off the column cover, and check for wires shorted together coming from the multi-function switch (turn signal lever). Possibly with two functions of the switch having intermittent issues at the same time, the multi-function switch itself is at fault. They are pretty inexpensive on eBay, you wouldn't be out too much money just replacing the switch to see what happens!

Congrats on the sale! It's crazy how long it took to sell, for the price you were asking. The new owner should be very happy, killer truck.

Take a peek under the truck to see where the fluid is leaking from, that will help you pinpoint whether it's the transmission or the transfer case. If either of those components locked up and punched a hole in the case, sounds like a pretty catastrophic failure. A total rebuild/replacement will be required, disassembly of the component will really be the only way to figure out what let go internally. Good luck!

Fack me, that's insane! I literally just bought my kit 2 weeks ago, there were more than a few brand new OEM kits floating around then, all for 200$ or less! Now there just seems to be that one (the link you posted), for a much more inflated price! That seller (chevypartsguys), even their item was listed for 200$, I know this because I almost pulled the trigger on buying from them! My best advice would be to maybe wait to see if more OEM kits pop up on eBay in the next little while, that's what I'd do anyways.

Welcome to the club! My trans went out in September of this past year.. I was doing a u-turn (tsk tsk) around a median, stabbed the throttle, and heard/felt a nice big clunk. Stepped on the gas again and she revved to the moon. Truck would shift manually when starting out from manual first gear, but no movement in drive range at all. I hadn't been through transmissions in school yet, but the trans guy at my shop knew what went without even tearing into the transmission.. forward sprag clutch! Sure enough, that bastard was in bits and pieces when my trans guy and I rebuilt the trans! Lol Good luck with the rebuild! Great reason to beef it up now.

My first thought is that it was an ISS tailgate to start with, and the Intimidator logo/spoiler got removed. Lol what a goof.

I can't vouch for that site, but I recently bought a brand new OEM 03-06 Silverado fog light kit for a little less than 200$ off of eBay. A little spendy maybe, but everything is included in the kit (even the factory switch) and it's all plug and play. Those blinglights would probably look good behind the vents though!

I've always run OEM iridium plugs without an issue. For anyone with long tubes and wire clearance issues, OEM 6.2 L92 wires with the 90deg boot look to be another option. I'm going to try a set out in a month or so.

Looks really good! Are they OEM fog lights? If so, did you fabricate brackets or trim the rear of the vents?

I was a little wary of that site domain, sure enough when I clicked on it, my antivirus software blocked a trojan. Just a heads up for anyone else who clicks on it.

Just be sure to use dexron VI in the transmission, and dexron III (or auto trak II, if you prefer) in the transfer case. A lot of newer GM trucks call for dex VI in the transfer case, but it isn't recommended for ours. You'll also need a replacement gasket for the rear diff housing cover.

I like different things about both bodystyles. The GMT900 LTZ/SLT interiors are a nice step up from the GMT800, but I enjoy my 05's interior too. My next truck will be a 10-13 Silv LTZ crew cab with a 5.5ft bed and the 6.2; that being said, I will never sell my SS. I love everything about it that sets it apart from a regular Silverado.

An AWD front diff will work in a 4WD truck and vice versa, the only difference between the two is that the 4WD front diff inner axle shaft housing has a front axle actuator on it, whereas the AWD housing does not. A simple inner axle shaft housing swap is all it takes for a diff to be compatible in either.

I have a belltech/mcgoofy's 3/4 drop, I'm running new OEM shocks with no problems. I have spindles and purple keys up front, with shackles and hangers in the back. DJM lower control arms are also an option for lowering the front.. shackles will only give you a 2 inch drop max, you'll need the front hangers as well for the complete 4 inch drop in the rear. Install a set of helper air bags, and you'll be able to tow that trailer no problem without having the rear of the truck squat. I air up my helper bags to 50psi with my streetbike (450ish lbs) in the bed, and the truck rides better than when it's empty.

Ditto. These threads aren't private, any schmuck can view this forum without signing up. I lurk most of the time as a guest. Hell, I even think this thread is a bad idea, just makes that video accessible for more potential thieves to see. I'm very interested in your plan for a kill switch, I'll send you a PM. Granted, truck thefts aren't as prevalent in Canada IMO as in California/Texas where the truck scene is much bigger, but my #1 gripe about owning and modding a somewhat rare vehicle is the possibility of having it stolen. These trucks catch your eye bone stock, mine even more so as it's lowered, has blacked out windows, loud exhaust, HID's, etc. I never leave my truck anywhere overnight, and I'm always careful as to where I park it. Shit, just reading threads about guys having their tailgates and rear tails stolen makes me cringe. I almost regret getting rid of the locking hard fibreglass tonneau that I had on my wrecked 06 Sierra, but I wanted the bed in the SS to be useful. I hate the look of the aftermarket tailgate handle locks available for our trucks, and it seems that the options available for the passenger side hinge (Jimmi Jammer, McGard lock, Master lock) are all easily defeated with a big fackin pry bar. A popular mod is to install a worm-gear type band clamp onto the hinge, and to weld washers onto the tailgate strap bolts to hopefully deter a potential thief from stealing the tailgate. I want to go so far as to install a smooth painted driver side rear Tahoe/Yukon exterior handle to get rid of the lock cylinder on the driver side door of my truck; thing is, if a thief wants in, they'll get in. I hate people who can't and don't respect other people's property/vehicles.

That thing looks wicked. I would trade every vehicle I own for that, no questions asked. Too bad it will never see the light of day in that form, SEMA vehicles are such a tease.