synyster_SS

I wish my ARH long tube install was as painless as everyone says it is, my set fought me tooth and nail every step of the way. The headers themselves fit beautifully, after that it was all downhill. Both slip connectors on the driver side exhaust pipe had poor fitment, a tubing expander was required for good fitment and adjustability. I do realize that the outside pipe of the rear slip connector is on the Corsa y-pipe, it more than likely had been crushed from the clamp upon initial installation of the Corsa catback. An inch of pipe also needed to be trimmed from the rear slip connector inside pipe for proper fitment. It also seemed that the ARH collectors were probably 2-3 inches longer than the OEM ones, pushing the previously installed Corsa Sport towards the rear of the truck; the rubber hangers were a chore to fit properly afterwards. The truck sounds awesome with the long tubes finally installed; I wanted to put a stick of dynamite in each of my Corsa tips and push the truck off of a cliff during the install, no joke. I dread the next time I have to remove the exhaust for any reason! I'm just glad I didn't have to pay a shop to install it, also not having the truck on the hoist would have been a nightmare. Not talking shit about ARH here, it's a nice product. Each vehicle is different, my exhaust was just a pain to install.

As others have said, fairly easy to do.. IMO easy to fack up too. The rotating torque of the pinion should be measured prior to removal of the pinion yoke, though. Rotating torque should be 3-5 in/lb tighter upon reinstallation. Make sure you clean the thread sealant off of the yoke splines and put new thread sealant on!

Agreed with Blown and Fireman, an automated bleed w/ a Tech 2 isn't necessary for just a caliper replacement. If you are having trouble bleeding the brakes normally, then it can be helpful. If you decide to get brake parts from a dealer, the AC Delco calipers come with caliper brackets/saddles and pins.

You may have a pulley out of alignment, check them with a straight edge. I experienced that on a newer Yukon that I diagnosed at work, the belt would only squeal once the engine was up to operating temperature. Turned out that the power steering pulley wasn't pressed onto the shaft far enough. Installed the pulley properly, and the squeal went away!

Matt hit the nail on the head (no pun intended). Clean up what's left of the broken bolt, weld a nub onto the bolt, and then weld a nut onto the nub! As Matt said, it might take a few tries welding the nut on before the bolt will come out, but it sure beats the hell out of removing a cylinder head just to get a broken bolt out! I wouldn't try to drill the bolt out.. drill too far, and you'll have a nice stream of coolant coming out of the cylinder head. I work at a GM dealership, very common issue with 6.0L motors, and higher mileage LS truck motors in general. In fact, the driver's side front and rear bolts are both broken off on my '05.. good thing I have a set of ARH 1 3/4" long tubes to install this saturday

Great thread idea! Nowadays, I am a GM guy through and through.. the C6 ZR1 is pretty much my ultimate car, with the C6 Z06 not far behind. There are a few non-GM's that I wouldn't mind owning, though. My first real car was a '83 Toyota Supra, 2.8L inline 6 w/ a 5-speed.. I've always had a soft spot for 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gen Supras. The third gen Supras weigh a ton, but they are great cars for cruising. I'd love a '89-'92 third gen w/ a 2JZ (4th gen engine) swapped in. Love '03/'04 Cobra Terminators too, just simply badass cars.

The 305's look super badass, especially on a lowered truck. I stuffed a set of 305/50's under the front of my 06 Sierra Z71 that was lowered 4/6 just for shits, I thought they would scrub for sure. Well, they didn't.. I loved how wide they were, they were steamrollers. Lol

I too have the slamair kit on my truck, I am lowered 3/4 as well. For the look you want to achieve, I'd have the adjustable mock-up thingy as far apart as it will go, while still remaining on the threads. If you put the upper mount for the air bag too low on the truck frame, the bags will lift the rear of your truck, even with 10psi in them. I kind of ran into the same issue, I put the adjuster maybe 1/2" down from the top of the threads, I wish I would have put it right at the top of threads. Clear as mud? Haha Before the air bag install, my truck sat pretty level, the ride height was exactly 1/2" higher in the back than in the front, but the axle would smack the frame over every bump. Now with the bags and 15psi in them, unloaded my truck now sits about an inch higher in the back than the front.. the rake took a little bit of getting used to, but I grew to love the look. With my GSXR1000 in the back, I air up the bags to 50psi.. the bags do their job, the axle doesn't hit the frame even with the bike in the back. No need to c-notch IMO.

There are 3 blend door actuators for the automatic HVAC controls, if I recall correctly. I had your same exact issue with my 05 SS shortly after I bought it, the passenger side would blow as set on the control but the driver side would blow hot no matter what. Resetting the actuators with a Tech 2 scan tool worked 2-3 times, until the actuator gave out for good. I work at a GM dealership; with Service Information, I was able to figure out which blend door controlled what.. the one you need to replace is between the floor and the dash right behind the center console. You can replace it without pulling the console, although you need the hands of a small child. Lol. There are three 7mm screws holding on the trim piece under the dash behind the console, remove the trim piece and the actuator is right there. I did mine in a driveway at 10pm at night by the light of a flashlight.. no need to take it to a dealership to replace it, all you will need is the actuator (they are all the same, I used one out of my wrecked 06 Sierra with manual HVAC), and a little bit of patience. Hope that helps!

It would look decent if the accents weren't such a vivid color.. the SS logos on the headrests are upside down! Lol

It blows my mind that both your's and Steve's trucks haven't been able to sell! Two bitchin' looking trucks, already blown with all of the guesswork taken out of the equation, for the price both of you are asking, it's a no-brainer! Too bad that it's illegal to import modded vehicles into Canada nowadays, I'd be tempted to sell the SS. Lol Best of luck with the sale!

Love this forum. Even though my post count is pretty low, I don't really consider myself a newbie.. been involved with car forums for the better part of 10 years. I just like to read a lot, and lurk most of the time. I like to contribute useful information when I can, and if I'm ever curious about something, I'll usually google search the shit out of it before I'll ask a question! Lol. I've been driving GMT800 trucks for the past 5 years now.. even wrenching at a GM dealership and getting a chance to drive a lot of different trucks, 2014's included, my SS is hands down my fav. There is a ton of great information available here, I'm glad to be a part of this forum!

Yep, you'll need to remove the serp belt. If you have a belt driven fan, you'll need to remove that too. Disconnect all of the hoses to the water pump, make sure you have a large drain pan to catch all of the coolant. There are 6 10mm bolts holding the water pump on, it's directly above the crankshaft balancer pulley. Use a razor blade and a scotchbrite pad to clean the gasket mating surface. Very easy to change out a water pump on a LS style engine.

A test light isn't needed to diagnose a parasitic draw, you'll need a multimeter. Disconnect the negative battery cable and connect one of the leads of the multimeter to the negative battery post and the other lead to the negative battery cable. You'll need to let the modules in the vehicle go to sleep, and usually let the multimeter sit for a couple of hours. Hope that helps!

Nice build!! Love the color, love the stance. Those 305's look so badass stuffed in the back!

I'd install a set of rear helper bags before you make a decision on whether to c-notch or not, the bags might be all you need. I'm dropped 3/4, my Air Lift helpers are the best thing that I have done to my truck suspension-wise. Before the helper bags, my rear axle would always smack the frame over any bump. I run 15-20psi in the bags normally, the truck rides awesome. When I throw my GSX-R1000 in the back, I inflate them to 50psi, and the truck rides just as nicely. I can't speak for towing anything, I took my trailer hitch off.

Too much SS insignia on these trucks makes them look really cheap IMO. You couldn't pay me to put those on my truck.

I installed a MOOG upper control arm eccentric kit on my '06 Sierra and then onto the SS when I lowered it; the Sierra was lowered 4/6 and my SS is lowered 3/4. Those eccentrics apparently allow for another 1.5deg of adjustment.. I can't recall the part number unfortunately. Still have -1.5deg of camber on each side, and that's with the eccentrics maxed. I supposed those Belltech bushings may help as well, the inner tire wear isn't enough to worry me though.

Personally, I'd just get them from a GM dealership. I am somewhat biased though.. I work at one. Lol

Yep! I'm not sure if a new sensor comes with a new o-ring seal though.

That is the same picture that I have access to in GM service information.. the VSS just bolts to the right side of the transmission tailshaft, should be very easy to remove. Hope that helps!

Damn Shawn, just damn! It's unreal how clean that bike is. I'm seriously drooling right now. Lol My roommate had an all-black 08 GSXR-1000 limited, I got to ride it a few times. The hydraulic clutch on that thing is something else! So smooth. The power delivery on that 08 was very smooth.. my 06 feels vicious in the low to midrange in comparison.. but that's why I like it! Haha

Looking good!! Can't wait to do the same thing in about a month.. the roads around here are still messy as hell.

Shawn, that R1 powered Raptor is just fkn badass. Read through the entire build thread for it, too. I used to ride dirt, now I ride street. My current bike makes 170rwhp, so 'beast 4-stroke' definitely applies. Please excuse the terrible picture.. that was my first streetbike, blue/black 2007 GSXR-600. Owned it since brand new, sold it 2 years ago w/ 13,000kms on it. The thing didn't have a single scratch, never should have sold that bike. Even with 'only' 105rwhp, it was no slouch. Got the itch to ride again last year, found and bought a mint (or what I thought was mint) blue/white 2006 GSXR-1000. Upon close inspection (after purchase) with the fairings off, it had been previously crashed.. goddamn @$$hole who sold me the bike lied to my face. Oh well, the bike rides great, so I can't bitch too much. Don't have any pictures of the 1K at the moment.. last summer with the bike parked out in front of my house, my neighbor's 20 year old bimbo sister backed over the fkn thing. It's currently getting all new OEM plastic and a few other things that were wrecked. It's going to look awesome when it's all finished, I'll have to post up some pictures of it.