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Posts posted by tanker
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If it was me I would at least ask Amtrac what it would cost to put it on the train. (Last I heard they transport vehicles).
Or something like this outfit,
http://superstartransportation.com/car-shipping/
I love driving my truck but hate putting miles and wear on it.
My guess is that your looking at around $650.00 in gas + the wear and tear.
Thetrain woudn't be a bad idea but I do plan on visiting family in AZ for a week then head to Washington. I guess if it wasn't for that itwould be well worth it. I guess since I will be in AZ for awhie I can do a good service on everything before going north,
I did 2200 miles from Florida to California in my truck twice. California to Utah and back(~1500 miles) twice. Fluids, lights, tires, belts, wipers, brakes. Doesn't hurt to have spare fuses, bets, quart of oil, quart of ATF, and light bulbs.
Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2
I do have a quart of trans fluid ready to go. Thanks for the heads up on spare belt and fuses though, I do plan on doing a belt change before I leave but a spare will be extra assurance and comfort factor. i just don't want to be in a situation that I have to leave my truck on the side of the interstate. Thats a good list of items you posted and I will at a minimum have those items and tools to change any one of them on hand. Thanks again
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Thank you all for the responces. Well then it makes me feel more confident about driving it, I did forget to mention that I did the fuel filter about 2k ago. I just wanted to touch base with some experienced SSS owners to get some input. Thanks again.
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Freaking awesome truck bro
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Well I am on orders for Fort Lewis WA. I will be driving from Fort Benning, GA is there anything specific that you would recommend replacing or servicingbefore this 2,400 mile drive. I already have done transfer case fluid, and front diff fluid. I have 85k on the truck right now, guessing I should do coolant, rear diff fluid, belt, and transmission service. Is there anything else I should look into prior to this long haul. Also I might be pulling a car hauler with my cherokee on it on this journey if I can not sell it before I leave. Any input will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Looks pretty bad ass
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No doubt I can tear it down now that I know how to deal with the issues that came up during the intial tear down. She is still really smooth and nice and silent, no bearing noise. Im pretty happy now.
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John I looked everywhere for that phone and still no luck. drkblusierra is correct about the clip on the oil pump. I have seen it online before and it was some sort of upgrade, unfortenatley it really doesnt solve the problem. I think I will do the upgrade next winter.
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Good going on the T-case Jason.
Good luck with the cell.
So would you recommend top quality snap ring pliers?
John, I would really recommend some top quality snap ring pliers, it would probably be a great investment for future use if you ever have to use them again. I honestly would of saved about 2 hours of my time if I would of bought good ones. Instead I ended up having to file my snap ring plier tips to put a groove in them so they would stop slipping. I was a battle even after that but I was determined to make them work. Im am glad to be done with it. I did notice my oil pump has a different looking clip on the part that normally causes the case to wear a hole. This clip is attached to the pump its self and not the case. Wondering if this was a GM fix for the pump to help with the case wear.
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I finished the bearing replacement after about 6 hours of work. The biggest hold up was the snap rings. I have the pliers for it but they are the autozone cheap ones. End result they worked eventually. The transfer case is nice and smooth now. I really appreciate all the help from you guys here and the quick responses. Now to find my cell phone I left on the bumper when I took it for a test drive.
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I really wish I had more time to let the truck sit so I could of ordered the pump kit. I have that up grade planned for the near future.
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The snap rings weren't bad, but I work on machinery and see all types of weird stuff and might be used to it.
The snap ring are a pain if you don't have a decent pair of pliers. I did a slip yoke eliminator on my jeep and had a heck of a time with the snap ring pliers I have now. It did get the job done though. I'm sure it will be a fight but I will get them off one way or another. I will post the results tomorrow once I get this thing finished.
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I did this about two years ago, so my memory is a little fuzzy. But I was able to do this in my garage without a press I replaced all the bearings and seals. I used a harbor freight press plate kit to drive in bearings and made a tool to drive in the seals and some bearings. It was easier than I expected. I found A LOT of good useful info here:
http://www.denalitrucks.com/documents.htm
Thats awesome, I was really hoping that I wouldn't need a press for the bearings. So far I have the truck on ramps for alittle more room. I appreciate the input alot. How bad was it getting the snap rings off. I have the autozone ring pliers, I guess if it won't do it I will buy a better pair. If you think of anything else please let me know. Thanks again.
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Well, I am in the process of preparing to take out my transfer case and split it open to replace my rear output shaft bearing. I have looked everywhere for a video or good pics of what it takes to do. I am pretty mechanically inclined and think I can do this job. I just do not like any suprises that will stop my progress. I looked at various types of Chevy transfer case disassembly videos on youtube but can not find the NP149 disassembly at all. I knoe about the snap ring that holds on the rear half of the case and the snap ring in front of the output shaft bearing. What Iwould like to know is does the output shaft bearing have to be pressed on or off and if so what else is involved with removing the shaft from the case. If anyone has experience with this please let me know. Thanks for the help.
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i wouldn't touch it if you just had a shop install it there should be some WARRENTY with it .....here link to vid of a truck I had in my shop with t-case goin out idk if yours sounds like this
http://i1262.photobucket.com/albums/ii616/blnawayss/IMG_0320_zpse5f3fae0.mp4
Thanks for the vid. Man thank god my transfer case doesn't sound like that. That sounds horrible. Makes me feel better about my issue, a little.
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My guess was bearing cage when I first saw your pic's of it. So it sounds like your click could be bearing balls roaming around in the case? (Just guessing).
I think that if it was mine, and I knew for sure that the installer wasn't going to help me, I'd tear it apart immediately. If you've got loose parts moving around in there I'd be afraid something bad is gonna happen soon.
Good luck.
Post a follow up when you get it resolved.
Downeast, your 100% right about the bearing roaming around. The clicking is the bearings making contact with each other. I pulled out the plastic cage out and going to explain to them what happened and hand it to the dealer. The customer service sucks so I really dont expect to much help from them but it is worth a shot. I looked into the tear down for the case if I have to do it and it doesn't look to bad to change that bearing. I will keep you all posted. Thanks for the responses
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Well I pulled out the piece I found hang on the output shaft. Turns out it was not metal but it was plastic. I did some research and found out it is a plastic bearing cage. Looks like it just clips in around the bearings. Now to figure out what I am going to do about it. Might try to clip it back in and see what happens,worst case it falls back out and my bearing click around alittle till I get time to split the case and change the bearing. Everything still feels tight in there. Just some info for ya, alot of the new bearings are going to plastic cages instead of metal. Not sure why.
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.is that the output shaft?? looks like it didnt get reassemblyed correctly
That is the output shaft in the pics. That is what is viewed when looking into the case between the seal and the bearing. It almost looks like the cage for the bearings or the metal backing on the seal has came apart from the seal. Think I'm gonna pull it out and get a better look at it.
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Here is what I found. I pulled the drive shaft to physically feel the u joints for any tightness. U joints checked out fine. i decided to look inside at the tail shaft bearing by shining a light in there and I found this brownish looking metal piece just flopped over resting on the output shaft. Can any one tell me what this is. The bearing looked complete from what I could see and there was no scaring or chuncks of metal inside the rear of the case. Any ideas???
Having problems uploading the pic... Trying to figure this out. will post the pics soon I hope
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It should have some sort of warrenty. ill post a vid of a truck we had in the shop with t-case out of it lets just say its very noticable
I will really appreciate it if you do. I will try to get a vid posted on here also of what I can hear. I know it will click just rolling down my driveway alittle. I will say I dont hear it when the truck first starts out driving but after a mile or two once I slow down it is noticable. Kinda like what ever is clicking has to be worked just alittle then it starts that click sound. I have noticed alittle play in the tail shaft. Nothing extreme to me but might contribute
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Downeast johnny I had the truck up on the rack idling in gear and could hear the noise from the output shaft area. The tires were off theground and free rolling. My u joint looks good and tight, no play at all. Is it possible for the noise traveling up in to the output shaft? The transfer also has auto trak 2 in. Nice and blue.
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Well I am hoping someone here has some experience with this issue. I have a new/ remanufactured transfer case installed in my SSS. I have less then 3K on this thing and the transfer is making a clicking noise that I can hear around 20mph and below. I can’t tell if it is still clicking when I am going above 20 mainly because of wind noise. I know it is coming from the rear output shaft because I had all four wheels off the ground and put it in gear. Using a stethoscope I was able to pin point it there. Is it possible the u joint could be making the noise making sound like the transfer case? I would take it back to the dealer who did this but said that the case does not have a warranty. They paid for the one in it now since it was bad when I bought the truck and I have a receipt showing so. Any info will be appreciated. Sorry about the spelling
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Johnny, I can not complain about what it cost me to get the rebuild. I did spend alot of time going to different shops around my area explaining the issue with the bearing needing replaced but turns out majority of the shops new less about the front diff than I did, thats when I would go find another shop. I really lucked out when I had been informed about a local owned shop that could do anything drivetrain related. I went to the shop and the owner knew about exactly what I was explaing. I guess I just had gotten lucky on this one.
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Well I just got my front diff rebuilt with all new bearings for 750.00. Luckly the shop I took it to recommended I go see this other shop that would do the job right. It only took them 3 hrs and I was back on the road noise free except for alittle gear whine, but I'm not to concerned about it. No more grinding ; )
H&R Performance tune
in PCM Tuning
Posted
A couple questions about tunes. I have came across H&R performance from Alabama which is near me. Has anyone heard of them? Also I can get a tune done from them for 150.00. Is this a good price? Is there anything specific I ask to be done within the tune. My truck is stock minus a drop in K&N filter if that does anything at all. All suggestions and recommendations will be appriciated.