battousai
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Posts posted by battousai
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I drove a HD Diesel with the 6 speed and absolutely would never go with that transmission. It would not keep shifting gears as if it could not make its mind up which gear to stay in. Contractor on my house let me drive it, then he traded it in for an older HD with the 4 speed. Just my opinion, it could have been my driving habit, who knows.
If its a Durramax, its the allison behind it, not a 6Lxx
totally different.
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mine was almost like that when I got my truck... it had two gutter 90* ends zip tied together.
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Ha funny stuff but you lost all credibility when you said Californian and gun in the same sentence!
This was my first thought haha
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that that kind of HP, what are you making torque wise? have a dyno graph?
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honestly, i'd gut it and then get a tune to delete the code... if it is an "off road use only" vehicle...
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any info on yours? would love to get one.
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My ac/heat will not work nothing blows....so I figured maybe a fuse nope not a fuse, gotta be
Blower motor replaced it did not fix....what else couod it be...there for a while it kicked on n went off
But now its nothing
probably the blower resistor
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that hat looks nice...
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P2135
P1516
P0220
It use to only be the U0107 code but now thats gone I got these 3. And that the only wire I have soldered. The one from the TB Ive re cut and put my old one back and and still only get these 3 codes. So I'm thinking it has to just be that wire.
there is a GM bulliten on those codes, i'd check that first... quoted below.
#PIP3089B: SES Light And Reduced Engine Power DTC P0120 P0220 P1516 P2135 - keywords accelerator actuator APP blade body connector connection DTC L33 L59 LH6 LR4 LM7 LS1 LS2 LQ4 LQ9 module position reduce sensor - (Oct 31, 2006)Subject: SES Light and Reduced Engine Power DTC P0120 P0220 P1516 P2135The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:A vehicle may be brought into the dealer for a reduced power message, and DTCs P0120, P0220, P1516, P2101, or P2135.
The Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) / throttle body type trouble codes, may be caused by a loose wiring crimp at the throttle body connector, or a broken throttle body circuit.
Recommendation/Instructions:Complete the current SI diagnostics for any symptoms or trouble codes found. If a intermittent T/P or TAC module type code is occurring complete the inspections below.
- Inspect all related throttle body terminals for a loose wiring crimp. The loose crimp may be difficult to find, and the poor connection will be between the terminal and the copper strands of the wire. Wiggle test the individual throttle body circuits to see if the concern can be duplicated.
- Inspect the related circuits for broken wires inside the insulation. The outer wire insulation may look fine, but the internal copper strands may be partially broken. Breaks in the wires usually occur within 1 to 4 inches of the throttle body connector. Wiggle testing may also induce a trouble code to set.
- On C/K trucks complete SI procedures for voltage drop on grounds G103 and G104. Grounds G103 or G104 may be loose or corroded.
If a terminal crimp or a broken wire has been found, repair or replace only the circuits involved. There is a throttle body pigtail connector available through GMSPO, but installing this pigtail connector may cause other intermittent TAC module/TP codes at a later date. If this pigtail must be used, please follow the SI procedures for Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Sleeves. (the proper Kent-Moore crimping tool must be used for this repair)
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
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what code do you currently have? and what did you solder? if you soldered the wire to itself, that would not cause the high voltage code.
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Do you have the Vin of the vehicle it came off of? That's the only way to really tell... They are the same block with different stroke lengths
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Please do, I am interested
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Are they used? Or new, how many miles if used
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Shipping to 77373?
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have you seen them in person?
those stick on kits look like shit... atleast to me.
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for a daily driver, i'd prefer it with like it is now.
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Do a leak down test, not a compression. If you are with in 10-15% leak down, mod away, as for injectors, as long as you are porperly tuned for them, the PCM will not over fuel the engine. It will just use less injector duty cycle. IF you do larger injectors with no tune, then yes, the engine will flood with fuel.
how would one do a leak down test?
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I bought these two weeks ago, installed them and it actually worked great for me, it's so much quieter in the truck.
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If yall don't mind me asking, what is the advantage of an x-link rather than splicing in the new connector with the appropriate pinouts.?
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just looked it up, I think if my radio dies I'll have to get something like that, with the Android mirror thingNew 8500bhs deck will be here Tuesday. Legit! So excited because it can mirror my android completely. So I can do navigation and all. Gonna have to post a vid.
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Gm changes part numbers like crazy, so I wouldn't doubt that it is actually the right one.
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I'll look at the schematics in the morning if I remember, but I believe the door lock actuator tells the driver door switch that it's open or closed... But I have to make sure, that's how it is on the nnbs
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Just got a call from one of my buddies who works at a speed shop. He has a gm tech 2 scanner. He said he will hook it up for a bottle of captain. Works for me cause ill probably wind up drinking most of it anyway!
depending on how it unlocks, that might not even work... some unlock by just a tech2, some you have to call and get the unlock code, some you have to program through gm's website... I think this is one you have to call, but you have to have a dealer number.
edit: I just checked on Service Information, you have to program it, unless your friend can program, your S.O.L. unless you go to the dealer.
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So I'm gunna bring this thread back from the dead as swade headliner is my next mod.... But I'm also thinking I wana wrap all the plastic in swade aswell( o shit handles,top door latch covers,overhead storage bin,and A pillars ). My first ??? Is what is the best glue/adhesive for carpets and plastic....
And can I lay the new fabric over our factory headliner??
Not sure on the glue, some type of spray on adhesive will work, make sure it says for automotive headliners. I know on the 4th gen Camaro, you would need to peel back the fabric and then put the new covering on the headliner backing
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shopman1 bowtie????
in For Sale/ Wanted
Posted
I'd go for a silver with red ss one