aerosys

Hi, as stated I have a horrid drive to reverse clunk noise (really any gear to reverse) that seems to be coming from my transfer case. It doesn't do it going into drive from reverse. I have replaced the chain and the old pump with the new design pump, but the problem still persists. I even re-greased my slip yokes with marine grease which seemed to help, but it's still pretty bad. When I get home I'll record a video of the clunk to give you guys a better idea. Anyone ever ran into this problem before? Transfer case operates completely fine and normal other than clunk. Thanks in advance guys!

Well there isn't any damage per say, because I have yet to repaint the bumper (also plan on repainting tailgate on down the road). I was just curious on what I should get to get out sanding marks. Specifically 2000 grit or 4000 grit sanding marks.

Hi everyone, I picked up my SS about a year ago and have a couple of posts on the site to which you guys have helped me out with a lot. Getting straight to it, my bumper and grille have a lot of paint defects from bugs sitting on the bumper and grille from previous owners. I was going to actually remove them, sand them down and paint them. Well of course to get the ultra smooth finish I need to color sand and buff. That's where my issue lies. I'm not sure whether to get a rotary polisher or a dual-action. I know a rotary is more aggressive which would be great against sanding marks, but I do like the safety that a dual-action offers, but I'm afraid it will not be able to be aggressive enough to be effective against color sanding. And I don't want to spend hours on one section of the bumper a day just for the safety when a rotary would be able to get it done much faster. I feel like I would be careful enough with a rotary not to burn through the paint, but I wanted your guys intake on this. Just remember, it will be used to polish color sanding, not just average detailing. Thanks in advance guys!

I'll paint it! How much you want for it? I have a paint gun and all so color is no worries!

Oh wow. I knew it was something I should've known. Wow I feel like an idiot. Haha, thank you!

I need to buy another one of these plastic caps since I just discovered mine has fallen off. I'm not sure what they're called but when I Google "trailer light cap silverado" and many variants of such, I get the plug and play harnesses, not the cheap little plastic cap I'm looking for. Thanks in advance!

I'm currently in the middle of replacing my transfer case oil pump to a new design one and cannot seem to get the speed sensor gear off of the shaft. I have attached a picture to better illustrate what I am referring to. I figured many of you have done this job before and could help. I've tried heat, prying for hours on end, and just plain pulling. It isn't moving. If anyone can tell me what they did to remove it I would much appreciate it. Thanks in advance!

I do have a question though. What is the WA#? I'm a little confused on that. Thanks in advance!

Thank you guys!

As stated in the title I'm in need for the 2003 black Silverado SS paint code. I know I can look in the glove and find it, but it's at home right now and I'm out of town, but I'm wanting to order the paint now so it can go ahead and be ordered. I thought a Onyx Black was used, but every paint site I go to to look up the code of my truck just calls it "Black" and gives the code WA8555. I'm just trying to make sure I don't screw up and order the wrong paint. Thanks in advance guys!

As the title states, I'm in search of a 2006 grille and hood. Looking to do a front end swap on my 2003 SSS. Just thought I'd check here to see if anyone has the parts before I go paying full price for a brand new set.

Lol, I even thought to myself "Maybe I should blow the excess water out with compressed air... nah, it'll be good." Lesson learned!

It's funny you say that because I actually sprayed my motor off about a week ago.

Hi guys, had the check engine light come on yesterday whenever I gunned it for about 8 seconds. Of course I went to auto zone to get a code reading and the scanner came back with the code P0332. From my understanding it seems like it could be a connection issue with the knock sensor, a bad knock sensor, or the sensor is detecting a knock (which is what I'm afraid it is). Just wondering if anyone has ran into this before and if a knock sensor going out is normal and I just need to replace it or if I'm SOL and most likely have an engine knock that's gonna require an engine teardown (which I'll do if it comes to that). Thanks in advance guys! Here's the code reading slip

Hi, as the title states, I need to know how I can remove the wax off of my trim. I waxed my truck for the first time and made the rooky mistake of not tapping off the trim or even being careful (didn't think the wax would stick to trim like it does). I did a little googling and came back with peanut butter, trim dressing every so often, etc. None of which actually REMOVE the wax, but "wet it" to hide it for a limited time. I think I saw somewhere that purple power and a toothbrush can do the trick, but I figured I would ask you guys to see if anyone knew of a cleaner or car product that does the job. Thanks in advance!

Got the truck back. They said the drop in K&N filter is what's doing it. It's giving more air flow which is making my computer try and compensate for the extra flow so it "shudders" whenever it does it. Told me that would also explain the bad gas mileage considering it's having to spit out extra fuel to compensate. They said my MAF was reading a tiny bit higher than normal, so they replaced it with a brand new one and it still had the same reading. They checked for vacuum leaks and did a all around check-up. In their opinion everything is as smooth as can be to them. They said they think I'm just being a little paranoid about my baby. Haha! I guess it may have idled like that before and I just didn't notice it considering I just got the truck and didn't really have a "feel" for it yet. Eventually I will replace the other cat and for some odd reason despite everything, IF that fixes it, I'll report back, but that's a ways down the road. I'm ordering a tune from Zippy and the mechanic told me that a good tune would actually probably correct it, but he still said he's had brand new truck come in just for an oil change and their idle is perfect and still more rough than mine. Said I was chasing a ghost problem and that I'm just not use to a sportier idle. I also was talking to my buddy with a Ford Lightning yesterday and we were sitting in his truck talking and I noticed his idle feels even jumpier than mine, but he said that's how pretty much all sport trucks idle. The truck runs like a dream too, so maybe is was me just not use to this SS power. Haha! Thanks for all the help guys!

I dropped the truck off at a trusted mechanic considering they have tons more tools that can test parts and find the issue in a fraction of the time. Plus, they always call before spending any money so I could just tell them I want to "fix" the issue later and take matters into my own hands. I'm just dying to figure out what the issue is and don't have time within the weekdays to do so and would really like to not be frustrated with the truck all weekend. And I've already done all I can really do maintenence wise. Spark plugs, wires, clean and re-oil my air filter, cleaned the throttle body, sea-foam treatment, and fuel filter. I'm hoping it's the old converter or a bad sensor. I really don't hope they come back with, "it's just your engine." Pretty sure I'd cry. Haha! I'll let you guys know the culprit whenever I find out myself.

Plugs are gapped at .55 and they're ngk v-power. And I replaced the fuel filter a week after I got the truck just so I'd know for sure that it was replaced recently. I'll seafoam the truck in the morning and the other cat very well may be. I'll record temps before and after cat and report back.

Yeah, no check engine light is on either.

Hi guys, I recently (about 5 months ago roughly) had a catalytic converter get clogged on me. I replaced it and ever since I've replaced it, there has been this random non rythmic shutter that happens when I'm idling. Pretty much a rough idle. After my converter went out I replaced the converter then experienced this "rough idle." I replaced the spark plugs, wires and even cleaned the throttle and no luck. Still does it. It isn't horrible and is only noticeable at idle. Sometimes I'll ask my buddies riding with me if they notice it and sometimes they can't when I can which lets you know how mild it is. Mild, but still gets to me because it shouldn't do it. I've also noticed I get worse mileage now. Use to get like 14 city now I can barely get 12.5 if I'm trying to drive it for mpgs. I have true dual exhausts with two cats (1 newer than the other). Was wondering if you guys had any suggestions as to what my problem is. Thanks in advance guys!

Weekends I drive the SSS, but weekdays, I drive my box.