detjoe
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Posts posted by detjoe
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I am interested in how you are going about tuning your transitions...espically timing, I am really sure its timing thats making my truck run poor.
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Density_altitude
Air density is a computation mainly dependent on the temperature, barometric pressure, and the humidity of a volume of air.One can relate to how these factors effect the density of the atmosphere by using a balloon to simulate the earth's atmosphere. When a balloon is filled with air and placed into a refrigerator it begins to shrink. The reason for this is due to the drop in temperature of the air inside the balloon. As the air cools it releases energy and slows down. Because the air molecules are not bouncing off each other as much they remain closer together and more of them will now fit in a smaller area. The opposite will occur if the balloon is heated. This same effect will occur if this balloon is placed in a pressurized chamber. If the pressure in the chamber is increased it pushes the walls of the balloon in causing the air inside to occupy less space.I am going out when its in the 40's for sure
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I wonder if its sucking the supply line empty....is there a venturi on the basket still? There were some guys on the GTO/G8 board who were saying that you could use up all the fuel in the lines in 10 sec of WOT.
Shawn keep me posted if you are hitting the track, I need to get out and dont want to be the only sss.
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Supersub made that power with his OE flex fuel pump. Now finding what that pump is is difficult. the denso/supra pump is IM closest to the flexfuel pump.
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I am reading a few different places on fuel set-ups...basically the buckets are interchangeable or the bottoms are...but the G8 guys are doing alot of math on how long @ WOT before you can empty the bucket...it was like 10sec....so you need to do the return line swap, and use the supply to return more fuel to the basket and then there is the issues with the ventuir (sp) pump not working with added flow.
I was seaching on PT.net and found the info/link about the G8 guys using truck fuel baskets...
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livernois has a trick looking billet bucket hat that will hold two pumps...its expensive. then there are the denso supra pumps, might be able to fit two of those in there and be good...
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these are real cool. I remember when I saw the numbering and wondered if it was for real
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turbo and cheap dont go together...but I like zippy's thoughts, they are real issues. But I have heard boost is addictive
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this sucks. I am still getting suring.
I have:
matched the timing tables across the high, low and idle.
added tq to the ac table
I dont think its a mechanical issue b/c it will idle good and only does the surging sometimes.
Can I do away with overspeed? and only have the underspeed give a spark correction?? I am tired of this...progress I felt I made may be none.
and my buddy is waiting on his Ctsv wagon...
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get it tuned. there is a table that adjust timing acording to IAT...in the higer heat you can add -timing to pull timing and when its cold you can add timing...The tuner is going to make sure your fuel is good before they try tuning the N20...
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do it. ford is out selling eco boost's over the 6.2
turbos that are for smaller engines are easier to come by.
the small displacement v8 just put down over 900hp in hotrod...so the power is there with 4L
I would make a list of all the parts you would need.
aside from the turbo choice, you will need to shop for:
injectors
fuel pump
fuel press regulator
a tuner (BIG factor in destroying blocks and stuff
)cold side
innercooler
BOV
Wastegate....
once you have a list we can start talking details, budget....
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good head unit...and a guy on pt.net was selling brackets to boot!
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No trolling in the for sale section.
keep on topic...if you are not interested in buying, go post somewhere else. Dont mind the discussion, its just not the right place.
this is my warning. Anymore BS in this section will get some off time. thanks
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Im down lol and thanks.... im still not done with it yet looking to make it a 408 if i can with my 5.3
Whats done to your HOE? Any pics or vids?
you are gonna need a 6.0 to make it to 408 with any cylinder walll left...Zippy's 408 build is pretty awesome, budget friendly and some nice parts to boot.
I could not get guys together here in MI, but I bet you(Zippy) could!!
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that tune also has some added TQ for the AC, it also changed one value in the accessory torque table too (dont know why but one cell changed color)
I am still getting some rpm drop when I come to a stop
FKso I am thinking its the over/under speed. its funny it does not do it all the time. I feel like its some type of delay thats getting hit, and then it searches for the idle. Like if I am moving from stop to stop, as if I am the third car waiting at a stop sign to go thru. By the time I am the car at the stop sign the truck willl search for the idle. SO each time I give it light throttle and then come to a stop it counts it and then the next time it triggers the correction routine and three levels of recover till its back to the commanded idle.
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what are you going to do with the GM 1900 thats on it now?
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pull the LSA and out a 427 in there.
I dont see it worth it to swap parts on a very capable car, with the goals you have anyway
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here is the tune I am at and my logs...I stalled it up a bit and it did not seem to like it, got knock. the other ones I could not get on it so I rolled into the WOT and it did not knock. Gotta hit the track...
wont let me upload this other log, says its too big ???
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mine does this too, I have the big three upgrade on my alternator wires.
Any electric motor you try to run and it is not able to spin b/c the windows are up is going to be a draw.
these trucks did not have the biggest alternator, the escalades had bigger alternators and dual batteries. both of those parts can be added to the SSS
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I am going to use an IAT adder table that looks like a zo6 one. It will not remove any timing until intake temps is 113 and it will add timing when the temp is 32.
I am also not going to add any timing. I think the table I have is good, it was just getting alot of timing pulled. I think I could have kept adding and I would never have seen it bc it was getting pulled right back out.
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My IAT adder table is not helping, pulling 3deg at 90. SO at running temp that table is pulling timing, should I zero it or move it over to what I see on HPT.com with it zeroed between 77 and 113?
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be safe.
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TQ MAGT>Engine>AC compressor TQ vs IAT
- - - - - - 90 111 113 154 176 198
1.992 1.992 1.992 1.992 9.492 11.992 15.000 18.008 20.000 21.992 25.000 32.500 35.996 38.008 39.004 40.000
how would you modify these values? the value w temps above are the ones I would need to change since they would be the one that would matter....any hotter or colder and you will not be running the AC.
should I select the one I want to raise, and then multiply them by like 10%? or should I find the difference between them and add a certain amount?
I find my self thinking back to math class and different equations represent different curves, and looking at these HPT tables I try to remember the equation and add values that come from that generic eq. I am not polished enough to argue it or anything but I know random is really hard, and most times there can be some math behind things (the golden ratio blows my mind!!)
So if I take my data and put it into excell I can generate functions...technology is amzing...trendline. sorry I am typing this post and playing with HPT and Excell
gonna post this....but I put a second order polynomial trandline in and my guess for how to move it is a little better
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I want a LSx powered 9c1 or impala ss...nice ride.
Track Times Took A Hit!
in Forced Induction and Nitrous
Posted · Edited by detjoe (see edit history)
I wont get your post off topic, but we need to hit the track.
But where you said you did the off idle spots to WOT? Idle good, WOT good, in between not so good
I am watching the weather.