mctwist77
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Posts posted by mctwist77
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Pictures!
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So I priced out the rebuild kit and the labor. Looks like I can get my diff rebuilt for around $530 locally (Parts and labor included. I am going to pull it myself). My question is, do I have the right rebuild kit?
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Once I get to my computer I'll try to find the youtube video.
I just used the product I ordered and the squeak seems to be gone. Still haven't driven it yet. I will report my findings. By the way, does anyone live in the middle Georgia area?
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Hahah, who said I already havent...?
I remember seeing this news story where this guy would actually have sex with his car and take it on dates. It was a 1998 malibu I think. It was funny, yet weird.
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Well if this stuff doesn't work, I'll try it out
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Ok, I will. Thanks Johnny
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The guys over on the corvette forums seem to like this product called Gummi Pflege Stift.
http://www.amazon.com/einszett-914806-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG
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Update! I wiped all the seals clean and the noise is still there. I also took a screwdriver and used it to simulate the door mechanism closing. After doing this the squeak is still there and it doesnt sound like it's coming from the mechanism as I thought. Also I discovered that if I jerk the truck to the left while driving I get the squeak from my passenger door. So basically, when I turn like the I am assuming the doors are moving outward very slightly causing the squeak. I guess the next step will be to use some lube.
Holy hell! The GM weatherstrip lube is $61 on amazon. Screw that, I should just use some KY jelly
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Thanks man. I wonder what type of lube they were using. White lithium grease?
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So, I'm getting a squeak from my passenger side door. It tends to squeak over random bumps and random turns. It lasts about 1 second then its silent. When I open the passenger door I can hear the squeak as I pull the handle and the door to open it. I thought the squeak was coming from the mechanism that latches on the door so I greased it but it didn't help (I'm not talking about the striker bolts, I'm referring the the actual plastic mechanism that moves when you use the door handle). Does anyone have any idea where it could be coming from?
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Nice. Let us know how that one holds up. 8 need a new front diff too
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Hey guys, I'll take some pictures tomorrow and show you how I did it. Its not that hard.
Here's the lip I bought.
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Jon,
I would not use that diff with those cracks there. Thats pretty bad, you should go and bitch about it to GM. That shouldn't happen unless you hit something with the diff.
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I'm not trying to be a cheap bastard but that seems fairly expensive for a rear sway bar. I was under the impression that adding a rear sway bar wouldn't make that much of a difference. However, an upgraded front sway bar should be a drastic improvement.
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Mother of god
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Hahaha that looks like it gets good gas mileage.
Thanks for all the input everyone, that impala is sexy!
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Merry Christmas everyone! Eventually, I would like to stop daily driving the SSS so that I can build it up and make it more of a race truck. So I'm looking to get a cheap DD. Looking for somthing under 8k, manual, sedan and great reliability. I wouldn't be opposed to do a manual swap if needed. I also would consider a coupe. So far I've narrowed it down to and few options, G35,Maxima or maybe a E46 Bmw. If you guys have any ideas let me know! I was thinking of a civic but I don't want something that small. I was thinking about an older Impala then do a T56 swap but the gas mileage isn't that great. Anyways, feel free to give your professional opinions.
Peter
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Congrats man! Hope it went to a good home.
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Damn! Tempting offer my friend.
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Chevyss05tx, thanks!
Kaze_V8, I think the grills painted like that really changes the whole dynamic of the truck, since the silver grills bring out the silver wheels and contrast the black. Post up some pictures when you get it done!
Question, when I cut the upper ball joint I cut it about 2 threads too short, so the nut is only 3/4 of the way on. It torqued it down to spec and I used loctite. Do you guys think it will be fine?
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Your truck is looking good Mac.
Thanks for your insight and special tips about the install. I've got this job to do, too and your post will make it easier.
When you do decide to do it feel free to PM me if you have any questions.
Looks good man.
Thanks man. I like your "murdered out" look
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Wow that looks sharp. Wish i lowered mine when I had it.
For rims what about cyber grey 22 reps?
Thanks! You mean like the same wheel I have now just 22''?
Thanks! You mean like the same wheel I have now just 22''?
Nvm, I see what you are talking about now.
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I finally installed my 2/2 drop. I used Mcgaughys spindles up front and Ebay special shackles in the back. During the install I ended up doing the upper and lower ball joints while I already had everything apart. This job was a major PITA. I got a quote for $300 for the install and an alignment and like the cheap bastard I am I decided to try to do it myself. Needless to say, I got the rear shackles in and the drivers side spindle in then I had a shop finish the passenger side as I ran out of time, blood, sweat, tears and swears. Some takeaways from the job. The lower ball joints have 4 little lips on them that need to be punched or chiseled in, in order to get them off. Once I did that I just hit it with a sledge hammer and it came out. I didn't end up removing the front axle as some members suggested and it was fine. I also didnt drill out the damper/bumpstop as some other members had, so far the ride quality is very similar to stock. As for the Mcgaughys spindle I thought it was good. My only complaint is that on the top of the spindle you have to mount a bracket that holds the brake line, the holes that were on the spindle that were designed to hold that bracket were too close to the upper ball joint. And by too close I mean that it was contacting the the upper ball joint boot, its not that big of deal but I just worry about it messing up the boot and the grease will come out. Also, I had to buy the "hardware" for the spindle from Mcgaughys which was bullshit. They insisted that you had to use their shitty bolts or else the spindle wouldnt work.. Well the 6 bolts cost $25 dollars and then they charged me $17 for 5+ days of shipping, then I didnt even end up using them because the Moog bolts that came with the ball joints were way better. Now, Im trying to decide if I should go with 22'' chome reps or 22'' silver reps, let me know what you guys think!
Little Sunday Boredom
in General SS
Posted
Nice work! What did you use for the insulation?