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Posts posted by Normandy
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I'll have to respectfully disagree with that. Since Ive owned the truck Ive had the dealer lube it twice and each time it would
A clunk in the steering wheel? If so you need to replace your intermediate shaft with the latest design. Lubeing does nothing. I replaced mine two years ago when I got my truck and so far no problems. Granted I've only driven 12,000 miles. It's a pretty easy repair if you have some tools and basic knowledge.
stop for about a year. This time im looking to do it myself.
Your saying that's not the case, then what could they have done to quell the bump?
Where is the best place to purchase the intermediate shaft from?
Didn't GM have a recall or TSB about this issue?
Thanks
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Are you referring to the intermediate steering shaft?
If that is where the bump is coming from then yes..
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Hello all,
My steering "bump" is starting to come back again after the dealer re-lubed it last year. I tried searching but I couldn't find what grease is needed to re-lube the knuckle. I would rather do it myself than have the dealer do it again.
Thank you!
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These various oil viscosity mostly boil down to fuel efficiency vs wear. In recent years there has been a push for fuel efficiency so the car companies have sacrificed wear. A car listed for 0W30 will run just fine on 5W30 or even 10W30 but fuel economy will go down. And 5W30 vehicles will run on 0W30 if your willing to live with increased wear. Heck back in 2004-2006 I'm not sure if 0W30 was even a valid oil yet, if it was it might of been our listed oil. In any case I would stick with 5W30,
I bought Royal Purple 5w30 but haven't had time to change it yet..
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Yeah is there some specific reason you want to use 0w-20? I agree in cold climates that would work well but IMHO the engine should be designed to use that oil. I would guess the tolerances are tighter on a 0w engine. I'm not sure I would use that on an older engine that was designed with a heavier oil. Im of the school if you use synthetic from day one your ok. I didn't have any history on my truck so I have no idea what the former owner ran. Since synthetic has so much more detergent I didn't want to run risk not knowing what the motor looked like inside. When I had the valve covers off it was pretty clean but I still am using a blend oil (Dexos).
I know the newer more efficient engines use the new 0w20 oil. Honestly I was curious if I could as well. If I can't im not worried about it. I'll just buy 5w30 RP and be done with it.
Just looked in the 2006 manual. 5W30 recommended for below 0F/18C through above 100F/38C; on the next page it does say IF temp falls below -20F/-29C (that's damn cold!) that "it is recommended that you use either an SAE synthetic 5W30 oil or an SAE 0W30 oil."
So even if you're somewhere super cold, they still want a hot viscosity of 30. By the way that mention of synthetic 5W30 for extreme cold is the only mention of synthetic I see in the chapter about oil. I run conventional 5W30 (Castrol GTX) in my SS's. My SRT8's get 0W40 Mobil 1 synthetic because that's original factory fill for them.
Richard
Interesting, GM does not run synthetic in the engine but they run synthetic gear and trans oil..
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Gotta a link, Richard? There's not enough info in your quote to reach an informed opinion. (Too many unknown variables that may have influenced the employees decisions on oil choice).
A diesel mech whom I trust, (Many years experience and continued schooling), says that synthetic will at least double the life of a diesel engine. Personally, I feel like the reduced friction achieved with synth is worth the extra cost. I use it in everything from my trucks to my line trimmer.
I agree. That being said I have always run Casterol Syntec since I bought the truck. Would the older LQ9 engine work properly using the thinner oil 0w20??
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Hey all, I have an oil change coming up and I want to know if I can run the newer 0w 20 oil in the SS. If not I plan on changing from Casterol Syntec to Royal Purple.
Thoughts?
Thanks!
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Hey all, im looking to buy some ARH long tubes. Preferably with Cats
Thanks
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Yep. You'd also have to dye it as they don't come in dark grey.
Wah wah..
That would have looked so nice too!
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The Sierra denali/denali/escalade has a leather covered one. It's also completely different. You'd have to switch the whole console.
And by console you mean the entire center console??
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That is for the jump seat console. They will not work at all with the full center console. Totally different.
Jump seat console?
Is there a padded one beside that one?
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Hey, Anyone know if the padded center console lids work in the SS? I'd love to have this http://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-2006-Chevy-GMC-Cadillac-Gray-Black-Center-Console-Lid-Kit-New-Free-Shipping-/391173478493?fits=Make%3AGMC%7CSubmodel%3ADenali
Thanks
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The GMC Sierra Denali trucks around 05-06 had a silver birch tailgate cap option. It's pricey but It might be a good alternative. 15129010
The standard black textured cap was 15932261
Great, thank you!
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Not that I can think of. Could you prep and paint the stock gm one?
I probably could. I did find this http://www.autoanything.com/bed-caps-rails/stampede-rail-topz-tailgate-cap
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Looks good. Looks like you need a stock Silverado cap to cover the holes.
Thanks ! Right now I'm looking for one I can paint. Know of any?
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If you use a metal putty knife, make sure to cover it thick with black electrical tape. This will help prevent scratching your finish.
Will do , thank you guys.
Merry Christmas
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I know for emblems there's a lot of people using fishing line but I don't think that will work for that maybe use a plastic putty knife and work it from one side to the other you need something that won't cause damage to the tailgate cap or paint not anything metal try and save the cap there's always people looking for them here put some money in your pocket at the same time good luck.
Thanks, When I do manage to get in on I'll share some pictures.
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Hey all,
So I bought a tonneau cover and I found that I have to remove the factory tailgate cap. I don't see any screws so I presume its glued on. What is the best way to remove it?
Thanks
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Update:
I've had the issue corrected for several weeks now. I just had Justin from BB send me a tune with the raised idle and she's good to go. Thought you guys would like to know. I appreciate your help.
Cheers
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Both the diffs and the trans fluid that GM uses in the transfer case are synthetics.
Thank you
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Does anyone know if the factory transfer case and rear diff oil are synthetic or conventional? If their conventional, has anyone seen any MPG or performance gains by switching to synthetic?
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I can email pics of mine but it's just a stock 05 truck Tb
I would like to see some thank you.
Steering "Bump"
in AWD, Differential, & Transmission Tech
Posted
I just found out there is a column bearing that has been known to cause the bump issue, has anyone else replaced one or is it mainly the shaft?