Normandy
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Posts posted by Normandy
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So 60's are nearly identical, and the 2 mph gain is definitely a plus. My guess would be your stock PCM was tuned.
Justin emailed me back, Here's a little of what he said "As for the gains, the only thing that I could see would be the fact that your truck had slightly more timing than expected with the stock tune. This was due to the intake causing the MAF sensor to read 6-7% lower than expected for your engine. 6-7% less airflow results in slightly more ignition timing and timing is what makes power. Post tune it is reading slightly more air than expected, so we could probably pick up a hair more power out of it by tweaking that back".
I just asked him in the reply if he could determine if my old PCM was tuned at all. I'll keep you posted.
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I ran in the 15's stock, I may even have a 16 second time slip lol. And that's with an AEM intake and same Flowmaster super 10's/single chambers you have, with both bigger wheels and then stocks.
Bigger than the stock 20's? Holy crap, do you have any pictures of them?
Ok, so the question is what did you run post tune?
While I was hoping to get around a .5 reduction in time, I was realistically expecting .3
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Black bear uses Efi live right? Did you use that auto cal? I think your truck is running spot on (ET wise) for an AWD truck, considering it's only an intake and tune really. If you were expecting more then .5 improvement I think that's too much, that would put you in the low 14s.
I'd maybe look into rather or not your stock PCM was already tuned.
And if it was then that would explain it. If other then a big reduction in ET is what's missing and you have good drivability why mess with it?
I really can't now, Its already been sent back to BB. I doubt it was tuned previously, especially since my 1/4 times before were basically what these trucks run mostly stock ( as I've been told by others on the forum). Surely Justin would have noticed a tune when I sent the scans in.
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So your not sure if the PCM that was in there was already tuned. Getting a core charge doesn't mean it wasn't, a different tune can be put on it, with the old one wiped out.
What was the DA of the track when you ran your first timing that your comparing your new times to? Are 60' and mph almost identical to the new times?
The DA was the same, just a small temp difference ( 83 before vs 78 last Friday) not to mention I was lighter this time ( Full tank of 91 vs 1/4 tank of 93). If I had same 1/4 tank of 93 and temps when I ran the 14.8 I likely could have pulled off a 14.7, thus making my gain .1 on the 93 tune. Somethings not right
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Call Zippy - He's the man with these trucks
Emailed him already, just waiting for his response.
Not bashing on BB but Zippy is the SS King in my Op. My 1st tune was amazing and ran 7 years with even throwing one code. Truck ran flawless and best 1/8 time was a 9.4 not to bad.
What were your times before/after the tune? Also what were your mods at the time.
Thanks
Sure you didn't have a tune on the trck to start with?
If it was Im sure BB wouldn't have given me the core charge back. Assuming it was a "box" tune.
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Yeah, the TB was on the truck when I bought it. Why they installed a TB thats only 2 mm larger than stock is beyond me. I do have fun with the truck its not that I'm disappointed with it. It's just that when I see many SS/6.0 owners that get great gains from their tune,( I hear " Night and Day" difference a lot) and with mine, I never felt any such difference. You'd think I would at least have the placebo effect ya know? I could tell there was a big difference in the shifting and it Rev's up a little quicker but that about it. My point really is that the only reason I bought the tune from BB is because of their reputation. I'm really not that impressed. Don't get me wrong I'm badmouthing the guy, I'm just not satisfied with what I received versus what the customer reviews are. DA and mods aside, If the trucks from the links earlier were basically the same as mine and they had great gains from the tune, why can't I get even close to similar results? I found a horsepower calculator to help me get a estimate on what hp is equal to the 2 mph I gained, It's roughly 15 whp. I could be wrong, maybe there are more factors with AWD. There again, thats why I'm asking the guys with more experience.
Thanks
I don't think you really have much mods to start with, the 80mm TB I'd say is just as good as the stock 78mm. Those flowmasters I had on my truck when I bought it, I was gonna use them for another project. But idk that they're a straight though design. I'd dump the 2 mufflers and get a straight through muffler and if you wanted to benefit from a TB then get a tbss intake and 87/90mm TB. Headers and converter will be worth a decent amount of ET if that's what your looking for, over .5 seconds.
When I ran my truck at a 14.2, mods where stall, same Flowmaster exhaust as you, and AEM intake all on 22" wheels keep in mind I'm RWD so that's playing with tht throttle off the line. Added LT's, and only a tbss with stock 78mm TB and ran a best of 13.5. This is without having the truck tuned, yet. That was with good da, lately da has changed with the season and it's ran nearly the same for have a 2k+ difference in DA, but I've also added some mods that should drop another .1, probably haven't seen that improvement because of the da, my 60's are also getting worse so that changes the outcome of the 1/4 times.
Keep in mind there are always variables when you compare your own results with anyone else's, ex. That link you posted it's dated early in the year when he did post so the post-tune results coulda been done with great da and the pre-tune results may have been in the summer. Just remember to have fun with it when your running test n tunes, it's not always about running the fastest record time, and only leave out the hole when your ready unless your racing someone and want to try and win.
P.S. RWD SSS tare faster then AWD SSS
lol jk but they are. -
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I agree with everyone else on headers being one of the biggest gains. I honestly think I felt a bigger difference with the header install than the cam install. could be that the headers where done after the cam and the cam needed those headers to breath, but it was a very large improvement.
I would think better heads would make more use of headers than a cam would, am i correct in saying that?
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That's a lot of DA. I can't say they will cost you a lot of time on the track. What I will say is I believe a better flowing muffler at wot is better. At the track I ran .2 tents slower with my exhaust closed. With my cutouts open I picked up .2 this is in the 1/8 also. I tried changing air filters also. Had a Amsoil air filter and volant power core. Both were almost identical in times.
Did you have the stock headers and exhaust at that time? I also have the volant power core. So far no issues.
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Drop the flowcrappers and put a good muffler. Put some good long tubes and send tune back for a retune. If he didn't knock most of you TQ management out have him do that in my OP.
This is also true. Everyone's truck is basically the same but where you run it and what kind of weather you have is diffrent which effects your times.
I'll email Justin and ask how much TQ management he took out. Do you really think the flowmasters hold the truck back that much? By the way I need to correct something, the DA of the track is 1450 not 1100 as I previously stated.
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Headers make the biggest difference (compared to a cat back set up). Honestly a 14.6 is decent for your mods if you had a DA of 1100'
Well I think theres still more power left to tune. I read up on a few more BB dynos. I'm seeing several 30hp gains on 6.0's with a cat back and CAI. Headers are the bigger "bang for the buck"? I thought it was kind of a toss up between tune or headers. Do you have Lt's on your SS, if so what where your et's before /after?
Thanks
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well I hate to say it cuz I have flows also, but most people will tell you that is not a good exhaust setup since most say that flows are too restrictive.
I agree, I'm looking to pick up a Magnaflow here pretty soon. That being said, I cant see flowmasters adding a tenth to my time.
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Don't be disappointed you really don't have any mods. Just a Cai and intake. Those times aren't bad. Slap a good exhaust on with some long tube headers. You will find a few tenths. Wait till it's around 60 or so at the track an you will also pick up.
Besides headers I do have a good exhaust. Dual 2.5's to flowmasters ( i didn't install them) According to the 2 mph gain I gained about 15whp from the tune. Even Justin said I should gain 15-30hp with my mods. While technically true, its the lowest possible gain. Maybe I expected too much due to all the positive reviews I found, though I never found anyone that said they only had a .2 gain....
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I dropped .5 in the 1/4 with his tune and mild bolt ons
What were the bolt ons?
I did the nnbs/tbss intake with 87mm throttle body and long tube obx headers and on a iPhone app I gained .45-.5 seconds in the 1/4 just from his tune.
I gained .2
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Density altitude. If u live in a high altitude state it will drastically effect ur times.
Were only around 1300 elevation here.
If you ran at the same track, you need to consider the air temperature and humidity as well because this will drastically affect your times too. Mine ran a 14.2 w/ headers, stall and Zippy tune at an altitude of around 1100' and air temp. was around 60 degs. if I remember correctly.
It was 78 degrees last night when I ran. When I ran the 14.8 last time it was 80-85 and it was more humid.( We had quite a bit of rain that week, none this week) So temps were better and i was lighter with better fuel. I never did see this "night and day" difference with the tune. I hoped it was just in my head.
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Hey guys. I finally got back to the track tonight after getting my Black Bear tune and I ran a 14.6@ 92 with a 1/4 tank of 93 oct. That was also using the T/H button with the 93 tune. Without the T/H button pressed I ran a 14.7 @91. Prior to the tune I ran a 14.8 @ 90 with a full tank of 91 oct. From everything I've read about the gains from a BB tune this seems to be off a few tenths. Please tell me somethings wrong here..
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Honestly I cant remember. when you have the towel and vice grip, think which way you need to go, to bring the window in. Do it in a small amount, if its the wrong way, you can fix it.
Well, I attempted the fix today to no avail. I could not get the channel locks under the window in order to move it. If anyone has any pictures of where they got their channel locks to stay and pull in the window I would appreciate seeing them. If not I may have to look at buying that shortened latch from ebay..
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Yes it is.
Sorry, forgot to specify. Inward meaning towards the truck or away?
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I dont, But its really easy. Took me all of 5 minutes once the door panel was off. You will see how the hinge works and know where to go from there, as long you follow the directions you will be good.
I looked at it today, is it the part that has the little bolt? I assume loosen that and move it inward?
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I agree on the screw deal too, If I remember right I also slightly bent something that had to do with the frame part of slightly. The best part of it, it was free. Ill look for it and post it for you.
Here is what I did and its been fine for years, no air leak or water. I had to bend mine 2 or 3 times until I got a tight seal.
Recommendation/Instructions:
To correct this concern, adjust the 1/4 glass mounting flange inward so the handle/latch will pull the 1/4 glass tighter to the weather seal. Use the following procedure to adjust the mounting flange inward:
Remove the Side Access Door Trim Panel per SI Document ID # 764454
Open the 1/4 glass to the full open position.
Use channel locks or equivalent pliers and a cloth to adjust the mounting flange inward. Use the cloth to protect the painted surface of the flange and the 1/4 glass plastic frame and weather seal.
With the cloth in the jaws of the pliers, adjust the flange inward below the 1/4 glass handle/latch.
Note: It may take some pressure to adjust the flange inward. If a good thick cloth is used, no damage will be done to the painted surface or 1/4 glass frame/weather seal.
After adjusting the flange, close the 1/4 glass and check glass flushness to the body/door. The glass should be flush or slightly inward from the body/door, if not repeat steps 4 and 5.
Reinstall the Side Access Door Trim Panel
I really appreciate the instructions. You wouldn't happen to have any pictures for reference would you?
Thanks
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In my case there is a screw under the handle accessible when the window is open mine was loose and once tightened haven't had any wind noise at speeds up too 110+ mph. Don't know if this is the same issue as others but this was what fixed mine
I'll check that tomorrow, Thank you
Not Happy
in Strip
Posted
Lol, if only the budget were there...