CaptKirk

Wow, this is the cheapest I can find... https://www.gmpartsonline.net/2003-chevrolet-silverado-1500.html Anybody running aftermarket stuff with a 2/2 drop? That's a little overboard for a bolt and some alignment cams.

Okay, got underneath there and found that one of the cam-shaped pieces is missing from one side. I was hoping it would be the side that seems to be out of alignment since I had it done, but it's not unfortunately. Should be fairly easy to find online I hope now that I know what I'm looking for. Thanks for your help

Thanks a lot man! Ill throw it up on jacks and get in there tomorrow and see what I find.

Removed.

So a while back I got a few alignments done to sort out some weird positive camber issue I was having on one side after a shop installed hangers and front control arms for a 2/2 drop. After a few frusterating trips to a bad shop, I switched to a much better place. They informed me that the other shop left one side loose, and a component fell out or was missing, I'm unsure if it's the camber bolt or not. If it helps the gurus think of what's missing, he said he could 'bolt it down tight while it's aligned, and it should hold for a little while' but also to get the parts ordered asap and get them installed. I looked through the wheels and I can't see anything out of place, but I'm not familiar with these trucks at all, or how alignment components work really. I understand there's a plate that cams around to achieve degrees and I know all about what specs do what, just not the parts that really get it done. I've looked around online but I'm finding just a bunch of aftermarket camber kits and other stuff. Can anyone point me to the right direction to just get the original camber adjustment parts? I don't think the 2/2 drop requires anything aftermarket and I'd rather OEM everyday. Thanks a lot, sorry for my ignorance. It's been a few months and I cant remember exactly what he said was missing, and I can't see anything obvious in the wheel well.

I'm not seeing how the wheels 'look' misaligned when the printout says the camber is in spec. If I go adjust the camber bolts so that it looks correct, that *should* throw the camber way into the negative. Because from looking at it in person, it looks like its ~2deg positive right now. I'm not saying what you're instructing wouldn't fix the look; I'm just concerned why the printout says camber is in spec but the wheels look out of whack. If that camber bolt is the only way the geometry can be messed up, I'm beginning to think the printout is complete BS. Because even if the positive camber was the result of another bolt or bushing that is improperly installed, the machine should have shown it, no?

Oh, I looked at those and thought they were the camber adjustments and I'd mess up the alignment doing that?

Okay looked more into this and there's no way I'll be able to adjust control arms with the tools I have... Tony what specific instructions do I need to give to the shop to fix this? I have a feeling if I just say "move the upper arms in" they're either going to say "no it's just out of alignment" or do a bunch of unnecessary work due to not knowing the root cause. Thanks again

I see, okay I'll have to check it out myself. The place that did the arms is a few hours away, if I can fix it myself I'll try that. Little short on tools. Thanks for the suggestions guys

Hey everyone - reviving this old thread. I got caught up buying a house with some issues that I had to address.. As for the camber issue - here's the before/after printout I was given after the second alignment. Few pictures of the front camber...it looks blatantly positive to me but maybe I'm crazy? FWIW, I haven't noticed any significant wear patterns, and I've driven quite a bit. As for "issue 2" above, the clicking steering issue seems to have gone away. And I was finally able to get under the truck to see how badly I've been rubbing on the fenders. The fenders look fine, but I noticed the wheels' inside lip seems to have ground away at the new DJM arms. The gouge is about 1/4" into them and about 1" long...Hopefully that's not a structural catastrophe waiting to happen..

Anybody have any idea why the front wheels seem to have positive camber after the drop and two alignments?

Ah I understand, I'll look into it and get back to this thread once I figure it out. Thanks guys

Did a little research on this. This seems probable as it doesn't always bind up.. I'll see if I can see/hear it better when I have somebody to turn the wheel for me while I watch in the bay. Thanks man I looked into this a little too. What do you mean by letting go? As in the spline isn't meshing correctly anymore?

So as title says I lowered the truck 2" with DJM arms up front, and shackles in the rear. Also did belltech sport shocks all the way around fwiw. Issue #1: It had positive camber when it was done and the shop said this was normal (I wouldn't know, I come from the world of import tuners with coilovers..) and they said just to get it aligned soon. Since I had just put 22" chrome reps and new rubber on, that's exactly what I did. After the first alignment, the truck still looked like it had positive camber up front, it didn't look any different. Then I made them do it again a week later and give me a printout.. The machine says they're within 0.5deg of zero. The wheels still looked the same. The camber is obvious enough that my girlfriend who knows nothing about this stuff can tell the front wheels are 'angled'. I don't have a picture as of now. Is this normal? Do I need to have them run neg. camber for it to even out now that the geometry is different? I would think the machine could tell what the angle was regardless of mods.. Issue #2: Ever since the lowering, when I turn the wheel and turn sharp at slow speeds, like getting in/out of parking spots, there is a noticeable "click" somewhere in the front end. I would blame the front diff, but it just started happening since the lowering, never did that before. You can feel it in the entire truck, people think I ran over something when they're in the passenger seat. Once it 'clicks' it doesn't do it again (like if you keep driving in a circle). I'm thinking maybe it's a bushing somewhere that wasn't set right? By now all the clicks/creaks should be out of that stuff though, so if that's what it is, something was done wrong. The work was done by a reputable shop that does nothing but mod and lower trucks like this. They were very familiar with the parts I purchased. I called the shop and they said it could be the wheel weights rubbing on the arms or something. That doesn't seem like it would be the issue..with how rough this 'click' is, I would think it would tear the suckers off the wheel. I can't see any marks on the arms from rubbing, but I haven't gotten the truck up in the air for a real inspection yet. Any ideas? Thanks all

Hey thanks for all the replies guys. I have company over so wasn't able to check this till today. I'll contact the hid manufacturer and see what they say. In the meantime I'll investigate the engine to frame ground, thanks!

Well I'm reviving this because I'm having a related issue. I got the HIDs installed and got all the kinks worked out (at first I had power routed to the jumper spot and it was confusing the alternator). They're working great and have been for about a week now. Just a day or two ago, when it gets dark enough out and the hid's come on, my dash lights go out or are very, very dim. But you can barely tell that they're trying to light up... has anyone had this problem after installing HIDs?

yes!

Sweet thanks

Just had the codes read today, there were 4: p0300 - random misfire p0128 - low coolant temp .. I may just be low, I forgot to check it before I left. But I will tonight. Either way, probably not related at all. p0171 & 0174 - Fuel trim bank 1 & 2 condition .. This couldve been caused by a lot of things related to the gas. Misfires causing rich conditions, low fuel pressure, MAF sensor faults, etc. Weird thing was on the way home from the shop the CEL went back off. I picked up a code reader while I was there. So I'll just keep an eye on it and read it as soon as it comes on again to see if one is coming before the others or all at once. I searched around a few threads but nobody eluded to where the fuel filter is, can someone explain where it is for me? My servicing book just has a badly drawn picture of what it looks like and the replacement instructions... Thanks all

I believe you. That's what separates the good businesses from bad for sure..

22 chrome reps

Well yes I'm going to go have the code read first. My experience with stealerships is not one of professionalism or knowledge. New to my area so still trying to find the right shop. I do agree with you though.

woop!

Thanks for the replies. Interesting info. My truck is '03 so I'm assuming I have a filter. I will replace that because it's probably fairly cheap, and see what happens. I have to depend on this truck unfortunately, if I get stuck on the side of the road and miss a work trip (helicopter leaves day after my drive) I could lose my job.

So I picked up a really bad (full) tank of fuel on my way to work a few weeks back. The exhaust note sounded weird leaving the station, and a few lights down the road the engine starts misfiring and the CEL starts flashing. I'm in the middle of nowhere so I have to continue down the road 20 miles to the next station. I pull off and get some of the injector cleaner hoping it would help, unfortunately I had just topped off so I have to pour it in and bounce in the bed of the truck to shake up the fuel tank and get it to mix some. Now it REALLY won't idle. I spend 20 minutes shaking the truck, idling, revving the rpms up slowly to a few thousand then back down, and finally it starts to run a little smoother, so I get on the road to try and burn some of the bad fuel off so I can get better stuff in. Along the drive the CEL is going back and forth between constant on, and flashing. It feels good at cruising rpm so I drive till I have 3/4 tank and pull off to top off. As I continue the drive (~6hrs) the truck slowly runs better and better and the CEL just sticks on and stops flashing. When I arrive the engine seems to be running at 100% again, phew. So I leave for work for two weeks and when I come back the truck is in the same state. Runs fine but CEL on. On the drive home the CEL goes out so I'm thinking 'Great!' When I get out of the truck at home I realize I can hear what sounds like the fuel pump whining pretty loud. I left town for a few days and when I came back the CEL pops back on. It's Sunday so I will have a shop check the CEL code tomorrow. Has anyone heard of this before? I figure my fuel filter is probably toast. Where are/is the fuel filter(s) on these trucks?