SS6.oh

Here it is! I've never had this much fun with a toolbox before. Just so happend the guy was a fellow SSS owner too! I don't think he's on here though.

Hi peeps . I recently quit wrenching. I'm hoping to sell or trade my Snap-on box to buy a boat. I live in Minnesota. Here's a link to my Craigslist ad. Let me know if you have any interest. Thanks !http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/tls/5187463470.html

167xxx

Congrats !

How bout a 81-86 celica supra . Rwd inline 6. Not sure what the mpg's are though

I use a scan tool. I carefully watch the wheel speeds. I look for one that consistantly reads slighty differnt than the others. Sometimes it's not consistent and you have to watch for awhile. it's hard to explain but if you watch/ read enough wheel speed data you'll start to see things that tip you off to which one is the problem. Specifically watch the data at the typical mph that the false activation is happening. You should see a slight variation in one of the sensor speeds when the false activation occurrs.... Or just before. Obviously while turning you will have differnt speeds from each wheel but you can sometimes noticed a anomaly while turning as well. Look for a sudden jump or decrease in speed .

Just get a isimple GM655 and be done with it. Bluetooth , USB , aux, mic . It's great

It's a 2007-2010 GM style hood with the raised runners on the side and vents at the back of the runners, but those don't fit 03-06.... Which are the trucks shown in the pics above. so I figuerd the one I saw was custom. But with so many pictured above it makes me wonder if they are actually being sold to fit 03-06 by somebody/ company?

so sounds to me when you initially made your first post thinking it was something with the P/n switch, it was actually cranking / turning over but not firing up...... Correct? You still haven't Specified.

To be clear , it's not cranking... Correct ?If you are in a jam and just need to get it started . You can jump power to the starter wire very easily without crawling under the truck. Next to the alternator by that remote jumpstart post with the red cover there is a wire loom . The starter wire is in that loom . It's purple. Turn the key to the on position and then just jump power to that purple wire . Should crank and start for ya . Assuming the p/n switch is the culprit of course

I like these hoods. I saw one on a 03-06 rcsb but I thought it was a one- off hood. Any idea who sells these?

It's called weather cracking. Happens to pretty much all tires eventually . That looks fairly minor.

Is it a marine intake?

Strange , these gauges never go bad lol

I saw a black SS today on the gravel section of dell rd in Eden prairie . I think it had polished SS wheels, painted Tonneau cover, and louder than stock exhaust .

I might show up from Bloomington. Unfortunately my SS will need to be driven occasionally this winter so it won't be stored. That just means it can come out to play

Hard water ?

Did you have to force the pads into the bracket.... Like with a hammer? It should be snug but not tight... They need to move back/forth. If the pads are too tight in the bracket I usually grind/sand/trim them down a little on the ends and the sides on the edges of the ends. Don't take too much off because you don't want want them ratting up/down. I also dab a little brake grease on the ends .

Oh also , I think there is a inner and outer pad on those . They look pretty much the same except the nubs out the outside of the backing . If you got them mixed up , the ears on the caliper could be hitting the nubs on the pads and not fully seating flat against the caliper ear. This would cause it to be too tight But usually you would have a hard time sliding the caliper over the pads to get it bolted in. It's still possible to bolt it on though. Since the rotor doesn't sit true until you bolt the wheel on you might not noticed the tightness until the wheel is on. You could also just thread some lugnuts on without the wheel , just to check if that's the point that it starts getting tight/ sticky

It's either a hydraulic issue or clearance issue. I assume you haven't noticed anything rubbing or heard any noises? So, with the rear tires off the ground can you spin the wheels by hand? If it feels free until you press the brakes but then it feels stuck , I'd think it's a hydraulic issue ....like the hose or caliper sticking. If this is the case you can open the bleader screw, if it realeses the pressure right away and you are able to spin freely by hand you'd have a bad hose. If it's still stuck with the bleeder open it would be the caliper sticking. If it's stuck has soon has you bolt the caliper on without even pressing the brakes then I'd guess it's a clearance issue. Like pads too tight in the bracket or too thick. If it's free until you put bolt the wheel on id think the rotor is hitting the backing plate or bracket.... But in that case you'd probably hear the noise or see the grinding marks.

Are you running the stock style ebrake shoes inside the rotor ?

Seafoam is also a great product. I'd guess the issues mentioned with the sta-bil are more related to using the wrong formula sta-bil. Particularly when using ethenal blends. They have several formulas including a ethenal treatment . Ethenal in itself causes huge problems after it's been sitting. It's hard on seals and gaskets and it absorbs moisture Fairley quickly which is most likley the root cause of the issues that people try to link to sta-bil. This is why I always use non-oxy fuel In all of my small engines and powersports toys. There are some trade offs but they are better than dealing with ethanol issues. And to clarify ... I store stuff with a full tank of fuel on anything that has a uncoated metal fuel tank....Which a lot of motorcycles have. The more empty space there is in a uncoated metal fuel tank the more space there is for condensation / moisture to build up inside. With the un even temps of a uncontrolled environment like sitting outside the more likely the chance of condensation building inside the tank. The cycle of some warm days and some cold days will create that effect. This is the same reason it's best to just let the bike sit all winter. I know it's hard to do but if you did start it up occasionally you would be warming it up and then shutting it off. Once you shut it off and let it sit again it will cool down (of course) and this could create condensation inside the engine. Things that don't have a good coating of oil could potentially corrode and rust in the engine. And of course the more obvious reason to try and resist the temptation of starting the bike would be cold temp starts in general are a big cause of wear. Yes I realize It's unavoidable a lot of the time but don't start it if you don't have to

What are you torquing the hub nut/ axle nut to?

Also not a bad idea to drain the carb(s) if applicable but at minimum run it with the sta-bil for a few minutes before you tuck it in for hibernation.