Hugie

Did you install the wrong oil filter? Also in rare cases but I have seen it. The oil filter will calapse internally from high oil pressure. Chevys have always put out some high pressure when cold and if you rev it, I've seen 80+ psi at the gauge

I tried that and they asked me if its 3 spline or 4 spline and they couldn't tell if AWD was different then 2wd. The deal should be able to help but when I called, I was on hold for 30 minutes. Holiday rush I guess. I was going to bust the nut off yesterday but it's 25* degrees so I'll give the dealer a shout out tomorrow.Thank you both for your help.

You are partly right about the bigger cam lowering your compression. It's reall only the duration that makes the difference. I see you wrote 228 and I'm assuming that's the duration at @.050 . This will drop the static compress and make a stock lq4 a little lazy at low rpm but an lq9 like we run should only loose a little. The lobe separation at 110 means it will come in hard at 2500-2800 rpm and carry throughout the rpm range with the correct tune. Adding heads will make it scream that much better but only in the upper rpm. You have to ask yourself with ever mode honestly Is this the rpm I use ? Me, I'm more of a torque guy. I would put my money in a magnacharger before I pump thousands into the rest of the motor. I like to rev out but getting to 6500 rpm is very rare. I usuall shift at 5500. Everyone has their style.

Did you stop in front of a church??? LOL Your truck is just broken in! At 70k I think I had to replace the front hub bearings but AWD is hard on bearing. Other than a fuel and trans filter, you good to go!

Inline tube, I think it's the name with a .com but if you can't find it, let me know. They usually advertise in the last few pages of most Hotrod magazines. The lines were all pre bent with all the correct fittings for under $300 delivered. The only problem I had was the abs brake bleeding. My scanner didn't have the program to cycle the abs, so I wet down the drive way and locked the wheels up in reverse a few times and then a few times going forward to activate the system. Then bleed as usaul. I was reading all the complaints with no solutions on the petition post and thought it was odd that no one chimed in, so I threw it out there.

That would be great! I see you have a little boost under the hood. Something I always planned on doing but it seems like everyone stopped making kits. Now that I have 130k on her, it might not be a good idea at this stage...

I found this pic from a few years ago. Like I said, this is the best truck I ever had for towing. 80mph with no problem except trailer tire aren't happy campers at that speed!

Thank You!

Hi guys, I'm new to the forum and I noticed the petition for the steering wheel rattle we all get. I've seen the replacements shafts that I don't have the money for and according to GM it doesn't pose a safety risk. So they won't recall it. Well we all know it's just the shaft tapping the outer cover. So I took my grease gun and pumped a good amount of grease in the cavity where the shaft goes through the floor board. I shoved the hose past the rubber seal on top and feed it in about 3-4 inches. Pumped about 3-4 ounces of marine grease and the rattle came back about a year later. I did it one more time and it's been good for over 5 years now. Just thought I would share. Now if we were talking about rusted out brake lines? I'm in!!! I just spent $1000 on stainless steel brake lines throughout the whole truck! And yes, they did blow during a panic stop! Ugh...

According to rockauto the idler is a 3 or 4 spline. I have to get the pitman too but I was hoping to only get dirty once but I guess I'll have to climb under it in crappy NJ weather and bust off some nuts. Thanks for your imput. I hope this isn't considered post jumping??? HAHA.

I guess there'll be some SS Silverado's around in 50 years. Power coating the frame seems to be the only way of keeping rust away. Great job and you are a brave man tearing into your truck that far. The wiring harness along has me cringing seeing all those wires.... Since you have it apart, I have 2 questions. Since you have it in plain sight... LOL Can you see how many splines on the idler arm shaft and is there any way to install a front differential disconnect? I need an idler arm and I'm not sure if I have a 3 or 4 spline. Thanks.

Drain the tank and drop it. I used a motorcycle jack and it balanced the tank well. The hardest part is getting the filler neck past the frame. Or you could always carry a 2x4 and beat the bottom of the tank to get the pump working again.

Stainless exhaust is the way to go but too rich for my wallet! Good luck, it's getting there!

I guess this would be my official first post asking a question. How many splines on the 2003 SS Silverado AWD idler arm? 3 or 4??? I would hate to pull it apart just to count and then stick it back together until the idler arm comes in... Thanks

Nothing to fancy but I'll get some up soon. Thanks :-)

Born and raised in central New Jersey. I have a lot of ties to northeast Pennsylvania and a few hooks down in San Antonio, Texas. I purchased my 03 SS Silverado new and I now have 130,000 almost trouble free miles. I can say within the last year I had knock sensors rust and exhaust manifold bolts break. It's all good now. Best k1500 towing truck ever! I wrench on GM and Harley's most of the time. I'm a retired corrections officer but I have many years working in machine shops and building engines. I currently own an 82 corvette, a 93 gmc Z71 stepside with 230,000 miles (damn good truck, only the trans has been replaced. Even the front suspension is original) and a 67 K20 I have in storage at the moment. That will have an oldsmobile 455 with the top loader 4 speed trans.

I hear ya, my sister is in San Antonio and I've been trying to find something down there rust free but philly is pretty close and I can seal up minor rust if any. I'm doing a 67 K 20 Chevy truck with the small back window. Let's just say I traveled have of America for rust free parts and laid about the same amount of weld! The rust belt SUCKS!!! LOL

Does the pro charger come in at low rpm or do you have to wait for the boost to build?

3:73 was stock in 03 but 4:10 was an option. It should show a code on your glove box codes. Calling the dealer with your vin would be easier than looking up codes or just see what's stamped on the ring gear.

My first post on the SS forum but here it goes. I was looking for parts and I came across this post. I was wondering if you still have the bed for sale. I'm in Jersey. So picking it up wouldn't be a problem. Mine has some rust on the wheel well and I'm trying to see what is more cost effective. Buying a used bed or having the body shop patch up the rust?