moregrip
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Posts posted by moregrip
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so I'd like to build or buy and efan harness that uses both pin 33 and 42 to activate, but has some kind of feature that doesn't shock the electrical system (maybe 6v initial then 12v.........is there a better way) Also want ice cold A/C all the time. Want a manual switch over-ride to turn them on.
How do I do this? Or who sells it?
I would rather make my own as its cheaper but not at the expense of 7days research to understand it all!
Can I modify my existing single pin activated harness? (Nelson's)
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STR or stall torque ration also play into the driving characteristics of a TC and is also part of the reason why a PI that has a close stall speed to stock drives so different. The STR is much higher than stock, and stock TC's do not even have any STR, which is another reason why the PI requires some slip to function.
not sure I completely understand that explanation.....
I did find this on the www........How does this apply?
STR has been talked and argued about for many years. The following information is what we at Precision Industries have found by doing our own testing to be helpful for you to try to understand this subject.
Our competitors must have a crystal ball to figure the STR of their torque converters. There are a couple of companies in the performance torque converter business that do have the capability to test STR, MOST DO NOT! Precision Industries happens to be one that does have.
Our test dyno has the capability to test from 200 ft. lbs. of torque up to 900 ft. lbs. of torque. The other companies use dynamometers that vary from 100 ft. lb. of torque to approximately 300 ft. lb. of torque. There is an old GM printed sheet that has floated around our industry for about 10 years showing the STR of stock GM torque converters that were built back then. Our competitors either use this sheet or are guessing because they have no way of knowing what the STR really is. They also advertise STR's of 2.7, 2.9, 3.0, 3.2, etc. this is pure BS. All torque converter companies use the impellers, turbines and stators that come in the factory torque converters. In our tests we have never seen an STR over 2.55. Precision Industries do have torque converters with STR over 2.55 but these units have specially machined stators in them and are not worth the high cost for a street/strip application.
If our competitors try to tell you differently just ask them to show you a picture of their test machine, not just a printout. The formula for STR is EXACT OUTPUT TORQUE ÷ EXACT INPUT TORQUE = STR. This requires a known power source and a data recovery system. STR is just what the name implies. The ratio of torque multiplication at stall. As soon as the turbine rotates (car moves) the ratio starts dropping rapidly until enough RPM has been reached for the ratio to drop to 1:1. The RPM that the ratio reaches 1:1 varies depending on other factors in and out of the torque converter such as impeller exit angle, stator design, impeller to turbine clearance, input torque (engine), etc. A fact that most everyone overlooks is that a torque converter does not make torque! It takes the torque the engine produces and multiplies it for a very short period of time. This is why some cars perform better than others with the same torque converter.
Some car enthusiasts put all kinds of money in the engine, transmission, torque converter, NOS, rear end gears, etc. then want to cripple the torque converter by lowering the STR to try and prevent wheel spin on take off. This is as foolish as pulling off one of the plug wires.
Why don't they finish the project and work on the rear suspension? Trying to tune your car by using STR is probably not very smart seeing how our competitors don't have a clue about what STR their converters have, after all the stock torque converter you took out of your car has a STR of 1.9-1.94. The best way to get the right torque converter for your car is to buy it from a company that has a large database of previous sales for your kind of car. Then tell the sales person what mods you have made and what mods you intend to make and let that person help with the decision. The key words here are large database. The "Johnny come lately companies" have no large database or experience with what works with these late vehicles.
Why try to reinvent the wheel with your hard earned money when there is bound to be someone in our database that has the same mods as you do and their torque converter/engine combination ROCKS! At Precision Industries we found out 10 years ago that STR is not the most important consideration when deciding on a torque converter it is the whole COMBINATION!
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HIs conveter on the drag radials is flashing from dead idle to about 3400 which is about perfect. His Circle D was supposed to be a 2600 or so an flashed to 4k or so and was looser than a good whore. The Vigilante is as tight as they could get it without going to diesel specs and it's awesome. To get 10's he'll need a 60' in the 1.5's which will come as soon as the fuel pressure is fixed. Once his fuel pressure is taken care of I expect a 10.9 to 11.2 pass to happen. Keep in mind this is only using the 3.2" front pulley. The IAT's still climb 50 degrees during the run, but alot of air is moving through. At stock weight with the fuel pressure fixed he'd already have a 10.9 pass. I still hold to this day that this is my opinion of the best setup in an SSS. It seriously idles and drives great with it's small cam, tight converter, and very big torque even when not in boost as it is a 408 with 10.3:1 compression.
About your TQ converter comments.......the SS and my 2wd HD weigh about the same.......I'm running a PI Vig triple disc that brake/flash stalls at 2800 rpm and it feels (to me) like it takes to much pedal to get the truck moving.....maybe I'm getting old.....but 2800 flash stall I experience is quite a bit less than the 3400 flash in this setup and by your description is driving fantastic! In comparison the stock HD converter seem more responsive on the street and brake/flash stalled at 2500rpm.....maybe that's a duh moment.....but I didn't think a jump from 2500 to 2800 brake/flash stall would make such a difference daily driving.
BREAK
Great progress on your truck brother! Congrats on what sounds like a whole lot of fun!
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Dyno numbers coming, but the main testing done originally with the TB is a vacuum test. The TVS2300 on the dyno at 5500rpm was pulling 7" of vacuum between the throttle body and the rotor group which is a test of inlet restriction. I will be posting results of my LSX376 project at work with the 102mm throttle body and 1" spacer. I will show power, boost levels, air temps, etc.
Ok cool....I'm familiar with inlet vacuum testing.....when we were converting 78mm to 90mm TB we saw a nice decease......will be interesting to see what you come up with.....I'm sure it will be all positive; especially in front of a PDB. Any idea when you will post results brother?
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Cut chop rebuild. Lol, I have a spare inlet, I cut the 90 mm flange off and weld a new billet 102 mm flange on in a better spot to clear the jackshaft then powder coat to match,kinda what wcch did back in the day for j tubes.
Oh you remember those! The J-Tubes Richard made were the nicest by far. Got it, makes sense.......
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Doug rippie Motorsports has been testing this same tb on n/a apps and showing real # is before and after on a mustang dyno. I have provided the bus for some day to day drivability testing.
I agree this is a must have for our bigger units. you incl grippy!
Ray
What are you doing for head unit inlets? No 102mm inlets available to my knowledge.
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The goal with Adams truck is the quickest and fastest Magnacharged Silverado without nitrous or meth.
I wish I was able to compete but $ isn't what it used to be, for me anyway..............would be a fun challenge though!!
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cool thread....the 102 TB based on the LS2 motor is sweet! Do you have any before and after dynos comparing the 90mm vs 102mm TB
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yes thats what im after is people's opinion's as up here in the great white north we dont get to see many heavilly moded trucks so its hard to picture sometimes what things will look like
I allways do what i want in the end, but at just shy of $6000 for the 24 22 with tires and about $700 more to do 24 24 its not like just not liking the Boss's or Foose rims
Have you seen a set of 24" Intro Pentia 6's? Sweet jesus they look awesome! My vote is 24/24
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what kind of quality are we looking at?
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Enjoy the pics:
still have about another 1/2 day or so of work left
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I noticed it was broken today when I saw your truck......lol
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It should work out well for you. They should already have the main portion of it with the cathedral port setups they already have out there. Here are a few of them.
The power gain is going to be impressive, especially on the torque side.
Someone over at pt.net made 727fwhp and 677fwtq with a TVS1900 and a 408. That is at the flywheel, but still impressive for the small blower.
yessir! cathedral port 2300 checking in! although mine isn't really a production setup
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what hp do this make???
I'd say between 700-750rwhp
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So wut mods do u need 2 do 2 da motor 4 this baby 2 put some power 2 da ground? I'm in a pickle tryin 2 pick a charger and leaning towards the stage 2 ATI procharger, becuz its seems 2 make more power. Thanks
that main thing you need IMO, is forged pistons and good rings. Other than that, the 2300 will make all the power you would want
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yes it will bolt right up to a LQ9, contact Brian @ MagnachargerDat is AWESOME bro, Is dat 4 da LQ9? If so let me know where u got it? Thanks
of course you can get a rideRight, he's got a forged 6.0 that comes out to a 6.1ish after the honing and new slugs.I'm a little jealous Grip... I want a ride!
thank youThat is bad ass. Congrats on a good purchase..
thanks bro!Baada Bing! bout time twice now.lol!
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would that work in our trucks??? i got a price quote for the 1900 and it came up to b 6000!!!! lol im betting this was like 7-8k
this is considered are custom race setup, but yes, it fits the trucks
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let the polishing begin, hahaha....... Did I mention how jealous I am?
no polish this time brother!
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so here's the new setup, enjoy the pics:
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So is this setup sold?
Sale Pending
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hey you cant post it here too im trying to sell mine so i can buy yours lol
hurry up already!
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Would this setup work for a TBSS with a few modifacations?
I don't think so bro, it would be to tall.
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You get it all, every upgrade, my whole kit for waaay less than it cost me to design/build....ergo you get:
-Polished MP122HH blower with 60lb injectors, every bolt replaced with ARP 12pt hardware, 90mm WCCH J-Tube.
-Polished Canton oversize intercooler tank w/bracket
-Custom dual heat exchanger with dual puller fans and brackets
-comes with 3 blower pulleys 3.2", 3.0", 2.8" (3.0 currently mounted)
-Polished Idler pulley bracket and snout support
-Over 2g's in custom polish and ARP hardware
-Every detail meticulously handled (you all know what I've done to it)
Kit has 125 miles on it, perfect condition, going in a different direction.
first $4500 plus shipping takes it
will ship in Heavy Duty boxes, like the ones Magnacharger uses
currently still on the truck, will remove when sold
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I get 10psi out of my 122 rather quickly with an 8" crank pulley 3.0 blower pulley
05 Efan Harness
in Engine Tech And Modification
Posted
Great info! Would you happen to know how I go about wiring a manual on/off switch in the above setup??